Pool Closing Chemicals

CBWalk

0
Jul 18, 2016
19
Springfield, IL
Hello - I've closed my pool the past 2 years except for blowing out the lines. I pay someone to come blow those out and put antifreeze in the pipes. I have used In The Swim's closing chemicals for closing my 26,000 gallon inground pool the past two seasons. My question is are these chemicals necessary? My pool was clear when I opened it this spring, but the closing kit is $50 and I'm wondering if it's necessary.

I read the Closing an Inground Pool sticky thread and they only chemicals mentioned was using PolyQuat besides balancing your pool's chlorine, ph, and CHA. The closing kit comes with the following chemicals listed below. Are these necessary when following the TFP method or just another rip off?



  • [*=left]Complete Pool Closing Kit includes:
    * 1 quart Natural Chemistry Metal Free
    * 3 lbs. Chlorine-Free Winter Pool Shock
    * 1 Time-Release Winter Pool Floater filled with 4 lbs. of non-chlorine oxidizer
    * 1 quart Natural Chemistry Pool Magic Spring & Fall with Phos Free
    * 1 Winter Sorb™ oil absorbing pool sponge.
 
All I have ever used to close my pool is chlorine and polyquat 60 algaecide, last year I didn't even use the polyquat 60. I've always opened to a clear pool.

The real trick is to close cold, and open cold, and by cold I mean water temp below 60F. I wait until the pool averages 55F or so before I close or open.
 
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All I have ever used to close my pool is chlorine and polyquat 60 algaecide, last year I didn't even use the polyquat 60. I've always opened to a clear pool.

The real trick is to close cold, and open cold, and by cold I mean water temp below 60F. I wait until the pool averages 55F or so before I close or open.

How often do you run your pool pump leading up to the water dropping to 55F? Ideally, I wouldn't want to have to keep the pump on 8 hours a day for a few weeks when no one will be swimming. Thanks for your help
 
How often do you run your pool pump leading up to the water dropping to 55F? Ideally, I wouldn't want to have to keep the pump on 8 hours a day for a few weeks when no one will be swimming. Thanks for your help

I only run my pump 4-5 hours when I'm not using the solar. If it wasn't for the darn trees that I'm under I would run it less.
 
Closing cold is key. I usually close in October, sometimes in phases, i.e. I can get the pool cleaned and the winter cover on, but still leave the pump/filtration system in tact if I know swimming is done for the season but want to keep the ability to circulate and/or add chemicals for another few weeks. At this point I can bring the pump run time down to an hour or two.

As for chemicals, I have never added anything beyond raising to SLAM level with bleach and I have always opened to clear water, often with FC still measuring slightly above my min target of 4. Think it was actually 6 when I opened in May this year.

Consider, the pump does not run for nearly 6 months during this time. Cold temps and no sun provide a lot of margin for error in my experience.
 
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