Plaster Etching, staining or BOTH?

Jump to latest Follow Reply
The pH will rise more quickly to begin with. I would test it after a couple hours and see what the rate of rise is. As the TA comes down, it will slow. You likely will get it to 100 or so and then it will just be a test pH every other day and adjust kind of thing.

You can test your FC later today. Will you normally be checking it in the morning or evening?
 
Ok...I will check the Ph in a few hours.
I will test for FC this afternoon.
Honestly, I am not a morning person....so afternoons will probably be my normal "routine".:)

One last question (For today..lol)....you said that since my CH is high (700) I will need to keep PH and TA "low".
Is 100 "low" enough considering how high my CH is? If not...what should be my target?
Also, what do you think my target Ph should be, based on my higher CH?
 
In Poolmath, there is a feature called CSI. You can enable tracking it in the settings.
You want to keep the CSI as close to 0 as you can. If it gets too positive, scale can start to occur. Too negative, it can damage your plaster finish.

I also suggest you start to log your test results and chemical additions into Poolmath. Really helps us help you when questions arise. See my Poolmath logs for reference.
 
Perfect! Thank you! I realized that I was using the "free" version of pool math (so there was very few feature I could use). I have now upgraded to the paid one and have logged my last 2 results. Also used the CSI Feature:) Thank you. I think I can link the logs to my profile now
 
  • Like
Reactions: mknauss
I see the data. Just try to enter the results from testing and whatever chemicals, etc you add. Good job!
 
Just added the Chemical add info:) The only thing issue...the time zone and time stamps are correct on my app...but they are incorrect when they are viewed via the website. I am going to try and fix
 
Something to ponder: Don't worry about responding today:) I am just posting this so I don't forget.
My current CYA is at 35. If I Can get FC, PH & TA to a good point, maybe I don't want to mess with CYA, at least not right now?
Here is my logic:
We do have some minor staining on our plaster (see pics from my first post and the original reason why I first came to the TFP boards:)
From what I remember reading when I first came across TFP boards, one possible way to get rid of staining is by "bleaching" them out. IE - Maintain chlorine level high enough and long enough in order to do so.
If I kept my CYA at the current levels, and ran my FC a bit higher than normal wouldn't that help make the Chlorine more effective in possibly bleaching the stains? Then, once the stains are addressed...then raise CYA a tad and run FC at a "normal" level?
Again...I might be missing quite a few pieces of the puzzle....but just trying to read and understand everything:)
 
It really depends on the stain. Organic stains can be removed by chlorine, but metal staining is a different process. Take a look at this:

www.troublefreepool.com

Stains in Your Pool

The stained pool is beyond embarrassing. Our in-depth Guide to remove stains in your pool will help you to remove the stains and prevent them in the future.
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
Thanks for sharing this! I am about 90% it's organic. Here is why:
- if you look further up the thread my CYA levels were +110 so it was virtually impossible to maintain any sort of FC that kept algae and whatnot at bay. Even though we brushed weekly and the water was clear, I think the FC was just too low. But I could be wrong. (CH = 1600+, but that has nothing to do with FC. but I think that might be close to a record for CH:) )
- We also had metal stains in our pool (teeny tiny rust speckles from using the wrong sandpaper...yeah, that totally sucked). We treated the whole pool with a citrus cleaner and the rust speckles went away. BUT the other stains still remain
 
Last edited:

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
AmyCJeff said:
Thanks for sharing this! I am about 90% it's organic. Here is why:
- if you look further up the thread my CH levels were +1600 so it was virtually impossible to maintain any sort of FC that kept algae and whatnot at bay. Even though we brushed weekly and the water was clear, I think the FC was just too low. But I could be wrong.
- We also had metal stains in our pool (teeny tiny rust speckles from using the wrong sandpaper). We treated the whole pool with a citrus cleaner and the rust speckles went away. BUT the other stains still remain
Click to expand...
Yeah I would agree it is probably organic staining. One point of clarification, CH doesnt have anything to do with your chlorine levels.

CYA and FC are the two that have a relationship where your FC level is driven by your CYA level. Your CYA was high, but you would have set a TPF record at 1,600 for CYA.
 
Opps...sorry, I typed that wrong. I have had all sorts of pool chemicals and abbreviations floating around in my head....lol! And sometimes I flip flop them. I am going to edit my post so it does not cause confusion:)
 
  • Like
Reactions: JJ_Tex
So..I realized that tomorrow is Father's Day, so I think I might need to ask this question tonight..as Hopefully most everyone here has plans:)

I am hoping to work on my CYA tomorrow.

If I want to raise my CYA from 35 to 50, based on the Pool Math I will need to add 36 oz of Dry Stabilizer.
I will be using the "sock" method in the Skimmer and running the pump for 24 hrs, but I have 2 questions:
1) I have read using a "normal" sock might be too thick. We actually have Skimmer Basket socks. If I am reading other posts correctly, it sounds like I just use one of those and tie off the top and put it in the Skimmer basket?
2) Can I still do my Aerating process (that is lowering TA) - Adding MA to Decrease PH, running the blowers*...rinse and repeat? OR should I stop this while I am working on the CYA levels?
*The spa has the normal jets and a Turbo Blower that makes the water bubble up and over side of the spa. I am using the Blowers.

Ok...I promise that is my final question....lol (for today and tomorrow) :)

Skimmer Basket "sock"
Amazon.com
 
Last edited:
I’ve used the skimmer basket socks and the acid in the cya ate through it. Now I use a normal knee high athletic sock I have leftover from my beer league softball years.
 
Last edited:
You can continue your TA reducing while dissolving the stabilizer.

You might look into getting hairnets for the skimmer basket. I use them.
 
Posting just so I don't forget:)

Sunday 12:00pm : Added 24 oz of Stabilizer (per the calculations of Pool Math to raise CYA from 40 - 50)
Sunday 4:30pm : Completely dissolved
4.5 hrs to complete dissolve 24 ounces of Stabilizer
I will still run the pump for 24 hrs

Method:
- Pool Pump on at 75%
- Used my 11 yr old son's athletic socks (crew length)
- Put 12 ounce in 1 sock, put 12 ounces in the other sock
- Tied the two socks together at the top
- Hung it over the metal "handle" that spans the top of the skimmer basket. One sock on each side
- Every 20-30 minutes or so, I would squeeze the socks for a few minutes (using a glove to protect my hands)

Key words : CYA Increase / Stabilizer / Sock Method
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: mknauss

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply