Pentair IC40 Questions.

Turbo1Ton

Gold Supporter
Dec 26, 2019
1,848
NE Oklahoma
Pool Size
14500
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Ok - I've been reading up on the IC40 salt cell on here for the past couple of days. I've noted 2 major things... The flow switch can have issues and the salt level readings can be off based on cooler water temps. New pool, plastered and filled at the end of January (thread here - New Pool in Broken Arrow OK) Just added salt last Wednesday. PB didn't quite get enough salt in, so I finished adding over the weekend, to bring it up to 3400ppm (Taylor test result). IC40 manual says 3600. At one point, on Monday, my cell was reading 3250ppm. I think the water temps were above 60 that day. That night the water temps went back down to around 57. The cell was reading 2650ppm Tuesday morning.

So I think the sweet spot for temperature on my cell is 60F, to provide a somewhat accurate salt reading. At least that is what I am noticing. This leads me to my main question. The red LED for low salt. The manual states this:

Red LED: Low salt. The water salt level is below 2800 ppm. The
IntelliChlor SCG will be producing chlorine at reduced efficiency. It is
highly recommended to add salt. See (*) Note below.

Red LED: Very low salt. The water salt level has fallen below 2600
ppm. The IntelliChlor SCG will not produce chlorine until salt is
added. The IntelliChlor SCG is OFF. See (*) Note below.


It does not indicate any method of differentiating between the "low" and "very low" points, such as flashing or whatnot. So essentially, if you are looking at the cell, and the red light is on, should I assume that it is incapable of generating?

The other question I have is regarding the addition of salt to the pool. The instructions in the IC40 manual state the following:

5. After 24 hours, verify correct salt level reading by checking the LED indicators on the IntelliChlor
SCG and by a separate reliable test method.
6. Power on the IntelliChlor® SCG and set the Sanitizer Output level to the proper setting to maintain
the appropriate free chlorine levels in the pool water (i.e., within the 2.0 - 4.0 ppm, APSP
recommended range).


When it states "power on" in step 6, I am assuming this is meaning that the unit is set to generate 0% while adding salt, since in step 5 it recommends looking at the LED's to verify the salt levels. What are the implications, if any, to having the salt cell producing chlorine during salt addition?

For those running the IC40 - what do you target for your salt range?

Thanks,

--Jeff
 
As we get 0 dilution due to rain overflow, ours stays at about 3200 ppm. The acid I use adds enough to balance the tiny amount of splashout.

The reading on our Easytouch is normally about +/- 100 ppm the test reading I use. Even down to the cut off temp of 52F pool water.
 
Ton,

One thing to keep in mind is that the IntelliChlor (IC40) only measures salt when it is turned on and then every 12 hours after that.. So, if you had 3000 ppm when the system was initially turned on and then you added a million pounds of salt, the cell would never know until 12 hours later (Or you shut it off and turned it back on).. It does not constantly report the salt level.

The IC40 was made to be used with an Automation system.. When operated with an automation system you will see very low salt and just low salt.

You should never add salt based on what the cell says.. unless you have verified the reading using a salt test kit, like the Taylor K-1766. Marty's cell may read +/- 100, but the specs on the cell give a tolerance of +/- 500 ppm.

Pentair suggests that the cell be off or set to zero output, when adding salt.. You do not want the cell running when the salt level is very high which could happen if you added a lot of salt all at once. The amount of current the cell uses depends on the salinity of the water. I assume if the salinity was really high, then the cell could draw too much current. I am not sure it would ever happen in real life, but better to be safe than sorry.

I like to run my cell between 3000 and 3400. Once the salt gets above 3500 or so, I can start to taste it.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
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Here in HOUSTON I leave my IC40 at 3800-3900 ppm. That’s measured from the Taylor kit. When my water temp hits 70 like clockwork the salt reading on the SWG is within +\- 200 ppm of my Taylor. Temperature below 70 skews it +\- 400/500 ppm. Right now I’m showing 3700 ppm on IC40. I just measured 3800 on Taylor.
 
Thanks everyone for the responses.

I guess one of my questions should have been "how do I tell if my cell is generating chlorine or not?" I was hoping that the answer was going to be simply, "if the red light is on, it isn't generating."I understand the 12hr sampling/reporting cycle, but my intellicenter has shown, 2200, 2400, 2600, 2800, 3400 (rough examples of the numbers I've seen in the past week). I have not seen it say low or very low at all.

Just trying to make sure I know if I'm making chlorine or if I need to be adding it manually, while my cell is reporting numbers significantly off from my drop test, during the transition temps time. If that makes sense.

Thanks,

Jeff
 
Jeff,

The cell has a "Cell" light.. If the cell light is on you are making chlorine.. Keep in mind the cell only produces chlorine part of the time, based upon the percent of output.. If set at 50% the cell light will be on for about 2.5 minutes and then off for 2.5 minutes.

This is how my EasyTouch/Screen logic display looks.. Your IntelliCenter should have something similar.. Notice how the salt level has readings below it that correlate with Very low, Low, etc...

View media item 1963
I never pay any attention to the salt level unless the water temp is above 60 degrees.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
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Jim -

Gotcha - I was not even paying any attention to the cell light. ?‍♂️

I see now what you are saying now about the low/very low salt levels. The Intellicenter has nothing like that on the display. Here is mine. I just get the ppm reading. That scale is kind of nice, so at least it gives you an idea of what is good and bad (relatively that is).

I currently have it off because my FC was fairly high and I was wanting it to come back down.

Pentair Chemistry.jpg

Thanks a lot! Appreciate your explanations and time!

--Jeff
 
Jeff,

You should have something called "Delays and Alerts".. It will also tell you if the salt level is low or very low...

Let's see what the IntelliCenter guru knows about it... Calling @MyAZPool

My guess is that your FC is not high at all.. :mrgreen: It is always better to run little hot so that you never, ever, go too low.. What was your last CYA and FC levels?

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Last edited:
Hmmmm... Have set up the alerts but haven't seen anything showing for those. I should have seen the low salt for sure.

FC was 7.0
CYA - 40 (added 2lbs on Monday to bring it up)

Was trying to get the FC down near 5 and the CYA up to 60/70 to bring it closer to the FC/CYA chart.

Thanks

--Jeff
 
Jeff,
You can see all of the IntelliCenter Alerts that are available, that I have listed in this post.
In the Web-Client (preferable), navigate to SETTINGS > SYSTEM CONFIGURATION.
Scroll down to notification. Click on the 3 pulldown menus (Pumps, Heaters and IntelliChlor).
2020-03-18_20-05-33.jpg
Select the alerts in each category that you want to receive.
Also on that page, insure that your email address at the top right of the page is correct.
Also, go to your email client and your spam or junk folder. If you are receiving your alerts in your email client spam or junk folder, option the sender ([email protected]), as a safe sender.

If any of this doesn't work, I would contact Pentair Tech Support.
  • Technical Support
Toll Free (800) 831-7133, * Press 1-1-1-1-1-3 for IntelliCenter

r.
 
Last edited:
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FC was 7.0
CYA - 40 (added 2lbs on Monday to bring it up)

Jeff,

7 is just not that high... The idea is to try and keep the FC at the target range and not between the minimum and the target. I personally look at the minimum the same way I would look at death. I don't want to get anywhere near it.. :mrgreen:

I had just assumed that the IntelliCenter would have had something similar to the ScreenLogic display for salt level.. So far it is just about the only thing I have heard about the IntelliCenter that is not better than the EasyTouch.. :(

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Jim - thanks for the info. That's good to know. I don't yet have any feel for what is/isn't excessive levels. Just what the charts and published info shows. I figured if it was above the target, I should get it back down.

I definitely think the graphics on the easytouch are better with regard to the chlorinator tab. Would have expected similar with the intellicenter.

MyAZPool- I have all the alerts set up to email me. I haven't found anything in the junk folder or otherwise. I'll see if I can't trigger an alert condition over the next couple days to verify proper operation.

Thanks,

--Jeff
 
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Jeff,

7 is just not that high... The idea is to try and keep the FC at the target range and not between the minimum and the target. I personally look at the minimum the same way I would look at death. I don't want to get anywhere near it.. :mrgreen:

I had just assumed that the IntelliCenter would have had something similar to the ScreenLogic display for salt level.. So far it is just about the only thing I have heard about the IntelliCenter that is not better than the EasyTouch.. :(

Thanks,

Jim R.
Jim,
Actually, I believe that there are a few more software related items where the ET/IT ScreenLogic outgun the IntelliCenter software in my opinion. However, I'll confine my rants for now.
I just noticed another Pentair mistake this morning. The sign should actually read: PENTAIR IntelliCenter Software Engineering/Lab. :p

Pentair Sign.png
Stay safe.
r.
 
Last edited:
Jim - thanks for the info. That's good to know. I don't yet have any feel for what is/isn't excessive levels. Just what the charts and published info shows. I figured if it was above the target, I should get it back down.

I definitely think the graphics on the easytouch are better with regard to the chlorinator tab. Would have expected similar with the intellicenter.

MyAZPool- I have all the alerts set up to email me. I haven't found anything in the junk folder or otherwise. I'll see if I can't trigger an alert condition over the next couple days to verify proper operation.

Thanks,

--Jeff
Jeff, sounds like a solid plan.
Let us know how your test works out.
Take care.
r.
 
Jeff, sounds like a solid plan.
Let us know how your test works out.
Take care.
r.

Well - I didn't have to wait long... Had all kinds of emails this morning when I woke up. Low salt, comms error, and some others. So apparently it is working. Not sure why I wasn't getting anything earlier but all is ok now. We had storms last night so I'm sure we had some power flickers.

Thanks,

--Jeff
 
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Well - I didn't have to wait long... Had all kinds of emails this morning when I woke up. Low salt, comms error, and some others. So apparently it is working. Not sure why I wasn't getting anything earlier but all is ok now. We had storms last night so I'm sure we had some power flickers.

Thanks,

--Jeff
Jeff,
Outstanding. As far as the backlog, hmm, who knows. When I can't explain something, my "go to" excuse is to usually just blame"gremlins" for the fault. :p
Typically, you should receive your alerts 2 to 3 minutes after the circuit kicks on.
Thanks.
r.
 
@MyAZPool - I seem to be getting a ton of empty alert emails. 138 so far since 7 this morning. I remember you mentioning this in your review thread but do not remember seeing a resolution. Did you ever figure out why this happens?

I currently have them all going to a separate folder so they don't decimate my inbox, but it is annoying. Especially when I can't easily tell if they are actual alerts or not. Which at the moment, I don't have any reason to believe that they would be.

Thanks,

--Jeff
 
@MyAZPool - I seem to be getting a ton of empty alert emails. 138 so far since 7 this morning. I remember you mentioning this in your review thread but do not remember seeing a resolution. Did you ever figure out why this happens?

I currently have them all going to a separate folder so they don't decimate my inbox, but it is annoying. Especially when I can't easily tell if they are actual alerts or not. Which at the moment, I don't have any reason to believe that they would be.

Thanks,

--Jeff
Jeff
The whole alert system in my honest opinion is a bit "buggy" but mine has settled down some since I published that post.
One recommendation is to ensure that you have de-selected "Communication Lost" in all three categories. That should help quite a bit.
Let me know if that helps out or if you have any additional information that you can share regarding those emails.
Also, quite some time ago, like you, I choose to setup a sub-folder for all IntelliCenter alerts and configured a rule in my email client to move all those alerts to my sub-folder named "IntelliCenter Alerts".
r.
 
Jeff
The whole alert system in my honest opinion is a bit "buggy" but mine has settled down some since I published that post.
One recommendation is to ensure that you have de-selected "Communication Lost" in all three categories. That should help quite a bit.
Let me know if that helps out or if you have any additional information that you can share regarding those emails.
Also, quite some time ago, like you, I choose to setup a sub-folder for all IntelliCenter alerts and configured a rule in my email client to move all those alerts to my sub-folder named "IntelliCenter Alerts".
r.

I don't have a lot of other info. I had already ensured that the "communication lost" alert was not selected. I noticed that one was showing up a lot and decided I didn't really need that alert.

I did figure out if I am on my laptop, I can see if it is an "actual" alert in the subject line. As you can see I have a low salt and clean cell alert. Everything else is empty. Woke up to 34 or so this morning so far.

Alert folder.png

Thanks,

--Jeff
 
Jeff,
Hmmm, yep, I used to get those "blank" or "phantom" alerts but at some point (not sure when), they stopped.
You can try to troubleshoot on your own or call Pentair Tech Support. They know about it because I notified them back in the beginning of 2019.
I assume that you are running firmware update 1.040? If not, then I recommend that you update your system.

Here is what I said about this issue in July 2019.
r.
 

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