New pool!

[Bbernedo]

Hi Everyone,

We have had our new inground plaster pool (wetedge) for about 4 weeks. It is an outdoor chlorine pool. We hired a pool company to get us started with maintain our pool chemicals as we have had a busy summer and didn't want to start off getting algae. Unfortunately we haven't had great luck. We have roughly a 20x40 pool (~ 29,000 gallons). I really hadn't had much time to research about chemical products but because we haven't been happy with the pool service thus far, I decided I might need to get a better understanding of everything to ensure our pools health. My parents have a pool and live in the same area came to help us test as after the first week of it being filled because it seemed very cloudy. The pool service was started at that time, and when my dad tested we had a 0 chlorine level at that time. We threw in a floating chlorinator with 4 pucks and called the pool guy to come back out the following week (as all this happened over the weekend). They came out and for the next few days things seemed better and the pool was clear. Because our plaster was new we were doing all the brushing and we are also surrounded by a lot of dirt right now from our pool dig - so I understand that some cloudiness might be a bit normal at this point. However, 10 days ago I noticed a yellow spot on our pool baja step and I couldn't brush it off, even with lots of elbow grease. There was only this one spot and we were headed out of town and the pool guy was set to come. I figured they would handle the spotting with chemicals. We came back from being out of town for 5 days and now we have several noticeable yellow spots both in the shallow and the deep end that we cannot brush up. Unfortunately we returned home over the weekend again, but I was so frustrated I took my pool water to get tested on Sunday at Leslies which showed the following.
free chlorine - 0
total chlorine - 0
ph 8.5
total alkalinity 160
calcium hardness 140
CYA - 0

*Based on my first weekend of researching here on the forum it seems as though our biggest problem is no chlorine and no CYA. At this point the pool guy is supposed to come Monday (today). I am hoping to meet him and ask some questions but based on the process so far I am starting to think we may have better results doing this ourselves. As we live in a very hot area (summer is usually 95-108 daily), so I think we will need to be adding more chlorine daily. A few things I don't understand are what products are best used. *We still have some pucks floating and I did notice they put one puck in each of our skimmers. But overall this doesn't seem to be nearly enough chlorine.

Based on what I read it seems as though liquid CYA is the easiest. Is there a brand/maker that is better. Do I add this (and at least get to 30 before adding chlorine?). How long will it take the pool to increase CYA levels? Because we live in a hot area and our pool gets direct sun all day - I am thinking a target of CYA closer to 45 or 50 would be best to reduce the dissipation of chlorine.

Also is there a benefit to the type of chlorine we should be adding daily. My parents say they use about 6 pucks and replenish as needed, and that if there is a hot streak or they leave down they use powdered chlorine (cal hypo). I know calcium hypo can increase calcium over time, and dichlor/ granulated shock can increase CYA over time so it seems like it is just preference depending on the chemistry of your pool. I am looking for simple, draining our pool will never be an issue because of our set up, so I am not too worried about increasing CYA over time. Can I just buy shock and use a scoop of it a day versus buying shock and powder and pucks? Or is the powder chlorine a better option for daily FC addition (in addition to having a few pucks floating). I also did buy a lot of liquid chlorine as I was at the store and thought we might need to SLAM our pool. Does liquid chlorine dissolve faster than the powder, or granulated? I guess I am just not sure if there is a benefit in terms of which chlorine to use? When I went to leslies to get the water tested, they advised 1-4 chlorine tabs at all times, and then adding 2 lbs of leslies shock weekly?

When I am trying to raise the chlorine should I add it at night? Based on the forum it sounds like you add liquid chlorine slowly in the deep end and wait 10 minutes and then can add muriaric acid.... I read some people suggest adding chemicals in the skimmers - then I read that can cause discoloration....

Based on what I have read - which again may not be right, I really need CYA, FC and murianic acid.

Sorry I know this is a bit scattered I just need some advice on where to start, and if liquid, versus powder versus granular has pros/cons in terms in regards to how quickly it dissipates in the pool (I understand the pro's and cons in that some elevated CH, and CYA). Thanks so much for any and all recommendations.

 

[Texas Splash]

Based on my first weekend of researching here on the forum it seems as though our biggest problem is no chlorine and no CYA.

Close, although it could be argued your biggest problem is not testing the water yourself and relying on the pool store (or tech) to do it for you. Welcome to TFP! You covered a lot, so let me get right to it:
- You MUST test your own with with either a TF-100 (link in my signature) or Taylor K-2006C. There no substitute for accurate testing, I guarantee it.
- Weekly pool services and techs operate on a "dump & run" method, usually with lots of acid all at once and over-use of pucks - horrible!
- You're in Chico, CA correct? You should not be using any cal-hypo. I would imagine your local water is hard enough.
- Consistent use of pucks increases the CYA too high over time and throws the FC/CYA balance off in the water. See FC/CYA Levels. Don't reply solely on pucks.
- Liquid chlorine or regular bleach (same thing) is best for daily chlorination. Yes, in the summer all pools in hot areas need to be fed some chlorine each day. That's part of owning a pool unless you have automatic chlorination via a salt water generator or liquid dispensing system. Doesn't matter if you add it day or night, just add it. We pour chlorine slowly near a return jet.
- Update your signature with all of your pool and equipment info.
- The staining may be from either something in the local water or pool store products added. Try rubbing a Vitamin C tablet on that stain. If that doesn't work, try some dry acid in a thin sock and rub it around on the stain. Let us know if either works.

Priority #1 - Get a TF-100 (or Taylor K-2006C) test kit. You have to have it. Stick to liquid chlorine. Yes, use stabilizer to increase the CYA. You should have at least 40-50 ppm of CYA in the summer easy. See below for more on that. Read our ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry and those Vital Links in my signature. Those will all help you. Just do a little reading here and use the right test kit. You'll be in much better shape.

Adding CYA:
To increase CYA via granular stabilizer, place the required amount as calculated by the Poolmath calculator into a white sock and place in the poolside skimmer basket. For those concerned about suction flow to the pump, suspending the sock near a return jet or from a floating device will also suffice. Best never to allow undissolved granules to rest directly against the pool surface. Squeeze the sock periodically to help it dissipate. Once dissolved, consider your CYA adjusted to that programmed (target) level. CYA test readings should show a rise in 24-48 hours, however some pools may experience a longer delay to fully register. Best to confirm final CYA in about 5-7 days before adding any more stabilizer/conditioner.

 

[Bbernedo]

Thanks so much! I updated the signature information. And good point we do have hard water here. The pool guy came today and was able to get the spots out and they are coming back this week to check on the numbers in the pool. Once things get stabilized a bit I plan to start doing more myself. I ordered the test kit and it should be here later this week. Today they did use granular CYA - I did purchase a liquid stabilizer (bioguard I believe) so I will have it on hand as needed in the future. I also have lots of liquid chlorine. One thing I am confused on - is why liquid chlorine if it only has 12% available chlorine versus the calcium hypo ~ 67% available chlorine or the dichlor that has 55% avail chlorine. It seems like you would use a lot less of the later two products as it has a higher percentage of chlorine available? I continue to read that liquid chlorine is best so I believe you, I just don't get why if the amount of available chlorine is so much lower. Also why do the pool stores tell me to add 2 bags of shock each week - in addition to 4 pucks? Is that there way of maintaining the chlorine levels? Is "shock" either dichlor or cal hypo? Now you say add some chlorine every day - so do I measure chlorine in my kit and add based on the pool math calculator? What if my chlorine levels are normal? My understanding is that optimal chlorine level is based on the CYA/FC chart - so lets say my CYA gets up to 40 - my target FC should be 5-7. If my kit reads that my CYA and chlorine levels are optimal - how much liquid chlorine do you suggest I add daily for maintenance? Thanks again for any and all information!

 

[PoolNewb2020]

Hi,
The reason liquid chlorine is recommended is because it adds chlorine and a little bit of salt each time it is added, nothing else. The other sources may seem more economical, but it is only short term. They add other chemicals besides chlorine, main ones being CYA (tricolor and dichlor) or calcium (calhypo). If you have too much of either CYA or calcium, the only way to lower the levels is either water drain or exchange.

If the CYA levels are too high, you also have to keep increasing FC levels, but if you only use trichlor or dichlor pucks, you can see it will be a vicious cycle. Meantime because your FC levels will not be sufficient to sanitize the water, you will also be fighting algae.

If your calcium levels get too high, you may experience scaling, plaster or equipment damage. All these things are expensive to fix.

On top of that, the pucks or granules are quite acidic and put the PH and TA on a yoyo ride where you will be raising PH only to find that TA needs to be lowered.

Most people on liquid chlorine or SWGs report more stable PH and TA when they only need to add muriatic acid periodically to lower PH. It has been the case for me as well.

In summary, liquid chlorine may seem like an expensive option to chlorinate your pool and far less convenient, since it has to be added daily, but in the long run, it is the cheapest option by far, when combined with proper testing.

Another option is getting a salt water generator. You will enjoy all the benefits of liquid chlorine minus the hassle of daily additions.