New Build - Las Vegas NV - Owner/Builder

[jetranger]

Just starting a new build here in Las Vegas. We're on a one acre lot with a blank slate for a back yard. Before purchasing this house, we looked at one that had a pool layout that we loved, so we're copying most of the details with this one.

I do have a full size Cat backhoe and skid steer with backhoe attachment, so I will be doing all of the excavating myself, as well as trenching. I also hope to do the electrical and plumbing, but I'll cross that bridge when I get there.

I've attached a picture of the current layout and dimensions (the depths are water depths). I'd like feedback - good or bad. The two goals with the pool are swim lane for wife and large lounge area. The plumbing/electrical is not shown.

This build will be extremely basic regarding automation. I work from home and have a very relaxed schedule. As much as I like Pentair, I don't feel we need a panel to accomplish my goals. Our last pool had an Intellitouch i7+3 and we really didn't use its automated features. Not only that, the 'wireless' remote wouldn't work unless it was plugged in to the wall, and about 30% of the time, it wouldn't work at all.

Already purchased -
Pentair 011056 VSF
Pentair 420 Clean and Clear
Circupool Universal40
Pentair Amerilites (2)

The pump will be programmed via its on board controller
The lights will be controlled via wifi switch
The SWG will activate via the flow switch (as recommended after speaking with Circupool)

Looking forward to posting progress pictures!

 

[kimkats]

Looks like you have it all thought out! LOVE the swim lane and seating! The only "watch out" I have is making sure you put something on the end of the steps inside the pool by the deep end to try to keep anyone from swimming into them down the road.

 

[mknauss]

The SWG will activate via the flow switch (as recommended after speaking with Circupool)

The recommendation from TFPC is to always have the power removed from the SWCG when the pump is off.

You can rely on the flow switch if you like, just remember that if it fails, the SWCG could explode. Not likely, but it does happen.

 

[HermanTX]

Pentair 011056 VSF
Pentair 420 Clean and Clear

Great equipment.
Also, I like that you thought about that short step on the Baja shelf. Many people forget that is a big step from the coping when then make the Baja Shelf deeper than 6 inches..
Refer to the TFP Wiki at bottoms of page for information on construction tips, selection of plaster, tile, etc, and a wealth of other information.

 

[jetranger]

Looks like you have it all thought out! LOVE the swim lane and seating! The only "watch out" I have is making sure you put something on the end of the steps inside the pool by the deep end to try to keep anyone from swimming into them down the road.

Thanks for the suggestion. I appreciate all of your advice in other threads I've been scouring. I sure have learned a lot! It helps that my neighbor is building a pool as well, so I can reference his build to see what his subs are doing and why.

The recommendation from TFPC is to always have the power removed from the SWCG when the pump is off.

You can rely on the flow switch if you like, just remember that if it fails, the SWCG could explode. Not likely, but it does happen.

Thank you. I plan on maybe doing an Intermatic timer as well for one more safety.

Great equipment.
Also, I like that you thought about that short step on the Baja shelf. Many people forget that is a big step from the coping when then make the Baja Shelf deeper than 6 inches..
Refer to the TFP Wiki at bottoms of page for information on construction tips, selection of plaster, tile, etc, and a wealth of other information.

Thank you. I want this build to be extremely simple, yet usable. We tried to figure out what we really wanted and focus on those items.

We were going back and forth with how much room the stairs below the baja shelf took up. They could definitely be smaller, but my wife's concern was if there are chairs or loungers set up on the baja shelf, it would be nice to have access to stairs the whole length of that area.

 

[AQUA~HOLICS]

When the pool forms are being laid out and you check for depth measurements you must add 3” for the water level being in the middle of the skimmer, also check your steel engineering plans to see if the requirement for the reef steps need to be excavated at 9” not 6”.
For the stairs I would suggest having them stop at the wall (red 20’ mark) and not turn to the right.

 

[kimkats]

For the stairs I would suggest having them stop at the wall (red 20’ mark) and not turn to the right.

I went back and looked and have to say I agree with @AQUA~HOLICS on the steps taking that turn. If you take off that part it will open up the "play area" for Watermelon ball!

 

[jetranger]

When the pool forms are being laid out and you check for depth measurements you must add 3” for the water level being in the middle of the skimmer, also check your steel engineering plans to see if the requirement for the reef steps need to be excavated at 9” not 6”.
For the stairs I would suggest having them stop at the wall (red 20’ mark) and not turn to the right.

Thanks for the input. I will double check the engineering.

Here is a layout without the steps, but keeping the wrap around bench. Kind of a compromise between the two...

I went back and looked and have to say I agree with @AQUA~HOLICS on the steps taking that turn. If you take off that part it will open up the "play area" for Watermelon ball!

Thanks! See above... I got rid of the stairs but hate to give up seating.

 

[jetranger]

And here's without the bench...

 

[kimkats]

I hear you on the seating BUT I would rather have "play area" over that small bit of seating. See they could and will sit on the edge of the pool in that area if they want to. If you do keep the part I would make steps instead of a bench as it would be more useful.

 

[JamesW]

The SWG will activate via the flow switch (as recommended after speaking with Circupool).

That's what they say in the manual, but it is not safe, in my opinion.

You should definitely have a second safety.


For operation, the Control Module may be wired in to the pump's power source so that both turn on and off together, or energized continuously for use with variable speed pumps (Flow switch will control Cell power but lights will remain on).

https://www.circupool.com/assets/doc/CircuPool-Universal-Manual.pdf

 

[jetranger]

Ok, as I get closer to beginning construction, I have been thinking about the process and have come up with a few questions I'm really hoping for guidance with -

What is a typical decking slope? 1/4 or 1/8 inch per foot perhaps? Is coping typically sloped as well? I am going with cantilevered concrete/decking.

Is cantilevered coping typically 3" thick on top of the tile? And them I'm guessing it transitions into 4" thick into the decking?

The forms laid out by the digging company are ALWAYS water line? Or are they sometimes top of tile line?

I was given 3 120v Pentair AmerLites (1 of them is technically a SpaBrite). Pentair's website does a poor job of clarifying which niche is needed for which light. Should I be using plastic or stainless steel for a concrete/plaster poool?

I was wanting to use the SpaBrite to light up my baja deck, but it has a minimum depth of 18". If my baja is 16" deep, will I need to find another light source? Or is there any way around that minimum depth? I am contemplating trying it to see if the inspectors catch it if there is no real safety issue mounting it at around 10-12".

I'd like to tackle the plumbing myself. What is typically the hardest part about plumbing a pool? And what is most commonly messed up? This is a super basic build. I would absolutely not attempt if there was a spa or other complicated areas, but I only have the drains, skimmers, returns, and sheers.

I need to order a skimmer (do they normally come with the lid? Or is that separate?). I also need to order the floor drains, returns, and two 24" sheer descents. Are they all the same? Or are there some brands to lean toward/away from?

I have been browsing this website non-stop for the past few months. It has been extremely helpful, and I always look forward to the experts like @JamesW , @AQUA~HOLICS , @ajw22 , @JoyfulNoise . You guys have already helped me and given me confidence more than you can imagine, and I truly appreciate all of your thoughtful posts (especially when you go to the trouble to screenshot info/diagrams/code).

Thank you!!

 

[HermanTX]

I'd like to tackle the plumbing myself. What is typically the hardest part about plumbing a pool? And what is most commonly messed up? This is a super basic build. I would absolutely not attempt if there was a spa or other complicated areas, but I only have the drains, skimmers, returns, and sheers.

Good article on plumbing

Hydraulics 101 - Have you lost your head?

Edit - Before reading this article, you may want to first familiarize yourself with this Pool School article on Pump Basics Hydraulics 101 - Pump Head Curves, Plumbing Head Curves and Operating Points Hydraulic Head In fluid dynamics, head is a concept that relates the energy in an...

www.troublefreepool.com

Some basics
don’t use flexible PVC - stay with hard pipe PVC
Minimize use of 90 deg ells - try to use 45’s or sweep elbows to make turns if space allows
Ensure all the connectors are sch. 40 pipe and do not purchase any pipe designated for drains or waste plumbing
Use unions on both sides of pump to facilitate easy removal for repairs
Test your plumbing before burying it.

 

[AQUA~HOLICS]

Decking Slope @ 1/4 per foot
Yes their is a slight slope to the coping
Typically 3 1/2 to 4” thick with no transition to decking, TBB should be level
Excavation forms are all ways to top of water line and are the same as top of tile line (in my area of SoCal)
Light depth: see picture provided of LED lights on top of Baja deck
Plumbing: the professional plumber is one of the most important contractors on the job site
Skimmers come with lids, hope this helps

 

[jetranger]

Decking Slope @ 1/4 per foot
Yes their is a slight slope to the coping
Typically 3 1/2 to 4” thick with no transition to decking, TBB should be level
Excavation forms are all ways to top of water line and are the same as top of tile line (in my area of SoCal)
Light depth: see picture provided of LED lights on top of Baja deck
Plumbing: the professional plumber is one of the most important contractors on the job site
Skimmers come with lids, hope this helps

It does help a lot, thank you.

Can you please clarify - Top of water line is typically the top of the tile? So if we went with, say, 6" square tiles, the water line to form off of is the top of the tile, not 3" down from that?

Thanks again.

 

[kimkats]

Water line will be in the middle of the skimmer opening. Most of the time this is half way up a 6" tile. SOME people measure pool depth as from the floor of the pool to under the coping. What should be measured is the WATER depth. That is from the floor to the middle of the skimmer opening.

 

[jetranger]

Thank you @kimkats !

Your replies are always so helpful! That is what I was thinking, but based on AQUA HOLICS post, it seems they form to top of tile? What am I missing?

 

[AQUA~HOLICS]

I advise customers that top of water is to the highest possible water line and can be adjusted from their.
Excavation forms are to TBB

 

[jetranger]

I advise customers that top of water is to the highest possible water line and can be adjusted from their.
Excavation forms are to TBB

Understood... thank you!

 

[AQUA~HOLICS]

Sorry for the confusion