Need some advice about Chlorinating Pool

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EvanG

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Jul 12, 2017
14
Tulare,CA
Wishing I stumbled across this forum sooner!

Ive always chlorinated pool with tabs. I think that during the first few years of heavy usage, splashing and back washing had kept my CYA levels manageable. Well this year since we have had very little use, im experiencing sudden algae growth and my CYA levels were high.

My confusion comes with testing by leslie's only 3 days apart.
First Test:
FAC-1
TAC-1
CH-200
CYA-80
TA-80
PH-7.4
TDS-1000
Pho-1000

A day or so before the first water sample I had added a few gallons of liquid chlorine because my strips were reading over 100 CYA and 0 FAC
So after this first sample they had me add PhosFree and "PowerPowder Plus" Shock

Then I went in a few days later and they got this reading:
Second test:
FAC-0
TAC-0
CH 250
CYA- 80
TA-100
PH-7.1
PHO-500

According to them, my salt levels were too high as a result of the liquid chlorine. And they advise me against using liquid for that reason. They say to use more powder or tabs.


I guess my real question is how concerned should I be about my Phosphate level, and is that really the same as Salt. Should I be more concerned about that, or about continuing to raise my CYA level. My pool test strips are reading still a high CYA level, closer to 100-150. So im not sure if I should just use liquid chlorine, or if I'm at the point where a partial drain is the only option.

Thanks in advance.
 
TDS (total dissolved solids) includes Salt. Like phosphates, we generally ignore them.

Your biggest concern, period, is out of control CYA. Your first step still be to stop giving your money to Leslies, get a full-featured test kit (we recommend the TF-100, but the K2006C is also great) - TFTestkits.net , and then you can give us a full set of results so we can tailor our advice to your particular pool. :)

Salt isn't a big deal at all, and liquid chlorine is the absolute best method of chlorination if you don't have a saltwater chlorine generator. Stop listening to Leslies, your wallet will thank you. :)
 
In order to determine what a pool needs the first thing you need is good reliable accurate testing. As you can see that is not something you can get from a pool store. Where you go from here is decide based on where you are. With such unreliable testing we can't guide you. That leaves two alternatives:

1. Rely on your pool store for your testing and advice. They have shown that their test result are unreliable, and their advice is how you got here. In addition they have a profit motive in selling some fairly basic chemicals at inflated prices. These magic potions can be replaced with much cheaper and simpler methods and supplies,

OR

2. Join the thousands of pool owners who have learned how to do their own testing and now manage their own pool using the methods taught here. It's all based on pure science, using some basic chemicals from your grocery or hardware store in place of the expensive potions, that are in many cases the same thing just branded as a "Pool Chemical".

You may well have to do a partial drain, but to know we need accurate test results and that requires good test results. You need to get a test kit and know how to use it. There are only two kits that we recommend using and neither will be available locally. They must be ordered online. The two are the Taylor K-2006C and the TF-100 from TFTestkits.com. The kits are available from a number of online sources including direct from TFTestkits and Amazon. Make sure it is exactly the one specified (if the Taylor that "C" makes a difference). Most people here prefer the TF-100. It is the better bargain and has more of the reagents a home pool owner will use the most. With algae in a pool I would consider the XL option and the Speedstir may look like a gimmick, but everyone that has one wouldn't be without.

Order a proper test kit and while waiting for it to arrive spend your time studying Pool School. It the button at the upper right of this page. There is tons of great information there and elsewhere on the site. It may all seem overwhelming at first but with time, and rereading it will all begin to make sense. Prepare and add a signature to your postings including all the basic info on your pool, so we will be able to better guide you.

Once your kit arrives, post your first test results and we will go from there. In the mean time you will need to add some plain unscented laundry bleach (or liquid chlorine) each day, nothing else just the bleach. But without the size of the pool I can't tell you how much.

So, first question: how big is your pool?
 
Yeah, you really need to do your own testing with one of the recommended test kits. Do you know how many gallons the pool holds? If so use Pool Math to see how much liquid chlorine to add to get the level up around 10ppm. You probably need to go much higher than that but we can't tell you how high to go without an accurate CYA level.
 
I have had pools for 35 years and until a year ago followed directions given by pool stores. Trust me when I say, I wish I had only found these guys sooner. The only thing is now I look at the world a little different and I kind of liked my reality where businesses were in business to help, now I question alot more.
 
Welcome to TFP!

I don't really need to add anything to what has been said, but I do want to discredit some of the advice you are getting from the pool store a bit. They told you not to use liquid chlorine because it adds salt... but all forms of solid chlorine also add salt.

If you raise your FC 10 ppm with the following you add:
10% liquid chlorine: 16 ppm salt
65% cal-hypo powder: 10 ppm salt, 7 ppm calcium
dichlor powder: 8 ppm salt, 9 ppm CYA (also lowers the pH)
trichlor pucks: 8 ppm salt, 6 ppm CYA (also lowers the pH)

So they may add less salt, but they add salt. On top of that, you already know your CYA is high and might be higher than they are reporting, yet they are worried about relatively benign salt? Which, according to their test results (that I do not put any faith in the validity of but to illustrate) is only about 500 ppm. That's barely anything.

I do hope you will stick around, do some reading, and hopefully adopt some of the techniques taught here. The pool store is really offering up some questionable advice and doing your own testing and dosing is a good way to avoid the runaround they are positioning you to go on.
 
Thanks for all the suggestions! Just bought my TF-100 and i'm super excited. Heres what I got on my first test:

FC- .5
TC- 1
PH- 7.5
Calcium 400
TA- 70
CYA- approx 90 (did the test a few times, all ranged between 85-95)

So my question is what to do next. Id really like to avoid draining part of my pool, even though the CYA is very high, should I just be using liquid chlorine to get my levels up, or cal-hypo or is my CH already too high?
Also approximately how long should it take for FC to drop? Ive always used tabs and never liquid chlorine, so im unsure of how often people usually add liquid to the pool. We live in central california, so now during summer its very hot, roughly 100 degrees every day.

Thanks in advance,
Evan
 
Don't bother listing TC, we're more interested in FC & CC.
Yes it's time to put your pool on a liquid diet. I'm sure the experts are also going to recommend a partial drain.
For now use PoolMath & add enough liquid chlorine to bring FC up to 10 ppm.
Let the chlorine circulate for 30 minutes & test FC & CC. I'm betting CC's will be high & you'll have to perform the SLAM procedure.
Report back with your results.

- - - Updated - - -

PS - What's the current condition of the water? Clear? Cloudy? Green?
 

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I would suggest running an OCLT tonight (take FC to 10 for this) to check for organics. If so, then a partial drain is necessary. Since you state you have seen algae, it is most likely you need to SLAM and thus need to get your CYA to 40 or so to accomplish that.

If you have no algae and you pass an OCLT, post back and we can work on a maintenance plan with your high CYA.

Take care.
 
Thank you for the guidance, I did a algae killer and chlorinate last week, and actually the water is super clear, no growth at all.

So ill start with an OCLT
Just to be clear, doing an OCLT would mean waiting till sundown tonight and adding enough liquid chlorine to bring levels up to 10? And I assume running the filter? Or should I add chlorine as soon as possible and check the level before sundown?

Edit, also quick question. After adding chlorine and running the filter, how long should I wait to test levels again before I get a good reading?
 
Pool School - Perform the Overnight FC Loss Test (OCLT)

You would add enough chlorine to get to 10. Test 30 minutes or so (pump running) after addition and with sun set. Leave pump running, lowest speed is good, all night. Test again in the AM before the sun shines on the pool. If you have a FC loss of 1 or more, time to SLAM.

You stated above you used an 'algae killer'. Only thing that does that is chlorine. If you used an algaecide please remember what it was. It may complicate things later.

Take care.
 
Well results of the OCLT was a loss of about 3ppm FC, but still only 1ppm CC.
So it looks like time to SLAM. Looking at the Chlorine CYA chart, I understand why having a high CYA can be a problem. Looks like I would have to get my FC to between 35-39, which for my pool would be 8 gallons of liquid Chlorine.

Just a quick question for estimation purposes, but seeing as I lost about 3ppm during the night, would I expect to lose about double that during the heat of the day? Due to organics and sunlight?

If that is the case then to maintain the SLAM at my levels I would expect to use approximately 3 gallons a day for the duration. And how long would that duration typically be? With no visible algae growth?

Thanks.
Evan
 
It will be very difficult to complete a SLAM at your high CYA. You will consume very large amounts of bleach (the higher the FC the higher the consumption by sunlight)
and keeping your FC at shock level will be nearly impossible. I would highly suggest you drain and refill to get your CYA to 40 or so.
 
It is a bit of a trade off- higher CYA should mean less of a loss from sunlight but the organics can continue to take a hit on your FC.

The real key is to test every few hours if you can and bring it up to shock level for your CYA trying to keep it above as much as possible.
 
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