Need diagnosis - SLAM not helping

[BkdGrain]

I tried SLAM this 15k gallon green pool, SLAM level over 20 and ph 7. I ran the pump at full speed overnight changed 48g filter DE today morning, pressure doubled to over 20psi within 3 hours. This is the first time I am seeing this green stuff not die after so long. If this is pollen do I just need to drain and refill at this point?

April 14 6pm SLAM 20, Ph 7 - green water
April 15 8AM change DE in 48g filter - still green
April 15 12PM filter pressure double water still same green color

(Lot of scrubbing with wire brush last 24 hours.)

 

[Bperry]

I tried SLAM this 15k gallon green pool, SLAM level over 20 and ph 7. I ran the pump at full speed overnight changed 48g filter DE today morning, pressure doubled to over 20psi within 3 hours. This is the first time I am seeing this green stuff not die after so long. If this is pollen do I just need to drain and refill at this point?

April 14 6pm SLAM 20, Ph 7 - green water
April 15 8AM change DE in 48g filter - still green
April 15 12PM filter pressure double water still same green color

(Lot of scrubbing with wire brush last 24 hours.)

What are the rest of your test results? Doing a SLAM with pool that green is gonna take longer than 2 days. With a DE filter, you should change it when the pressure rises 25% higher than the clean pressure. Letting it double is way too long. Consider bypassing the filter until the algae is dead.

 

[Jimrahbe]

Bkd,

You can drain that pool and fill it up for less than the cost of chlorine!!!

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[BkdGrain]

What are the rest of your test results? Doing a SLAM with pool that green is gonna take longer than 2 days. With a DE filter, you should change it when the pressure rises 25% higher than the clean pressure. Letting it double is way too long. Consider bypassing the filter until the algae is dead.

I actually ran it with filter bypass from 6pm yesterday till today morning 8am before running it with new DE. As the color didn't change after 12 hours of slam I thought may it’s pollen and ran it through filter to catch it.

I didn’t do CYA test as I mostly use liquid chlorine. And after all the rains last few months I expect it to be very low, <40.

 

[BkdGrain]

Bkd,

You can drain that pool and fill it up for less than the cost of chlorine!!!

Thanks,

Jim R.

As you are also in DFW is there any specific precaution you recommend for draining?

How much should I drain? As it’s gonna take along time to fill anything about DFW weather that I need to be concerned about?

Thank you

 

[Donldson]

I didn’t do CYA test as I mostly use liquid chlorine. And after all the rains last few months I expect it to be very low, <40.

Wait, you're just guessing your CYA?

Then how did you come up with 20 as your FC target if you don't know your CYA?

 

[BkdGrain]

Wait, you're just guessing your CYA?

Then how did you come up with 20 as your FC target if you don't know your CYA?

I tested FC, I don’t see overshooting FC for SLAM being a problem. My CYA assumptions have been accurate before because I am the only one who adds it to this pool.

 

[Newdude]

assumptions

Thres a saying about them for a reason.

If the CYA is higher than you guess, your slam is less effective as it misses the target it needs.

How often are you bringing it back to slam ?

 

[TinFoilHat]

The CYA level is key to the SLAM. Winging it won't get the job done.

 

[Bperry]

I tested FC, I don’t see overshooting FC for SLAM being a problem. My CYA assumptions have been accurate before because I am the only one who adds it to this pool.

If you’re overshooting then you are wasting a lot of expensive chlorine. But maybe you’re undershooting as well. You really need to do the testing to understand what’s going on.

 

[BkdGrain]

Tested it again today evening, FC level still shows around 20, didn't add any since yesterday. Ph 7. Sun was down to check CYA correctly. I am going to check pool store for their readings to make sure my test chemicals are not messed up and showing me wrong values.

 

[PoolStored]

I tested FC, I don’t see overshooting FC for SLAM being a problem. My CYA assumptions have been accurate before because I am the only one who adds it to this pool.

Making assumptions about CYA, and dosing above SLAM level FC for your CYA can be a problem and cause issues with pool, equipment and *egads* people. Don't do that.

Tested it again today evening, FC level still shows around 20, didn't add any since yesterday. Ph 7. Sun was down to check CYA correctly. I am going to check pool store for their readings to make sure my test chemicals are not messed up and showing me wrong values.

pH test is invalid when FC > 10. Please, please, please do not us pool store testing. If you have a proper test kit, it is the gold standard for testing.

Foundational to TFP is testing. Use your test kit and add chemicals as needed based on your testing.

 

[BkdGrain]

Making assumptions about CYA, and dosing above SLAM level FC for your CYA can be a problem and cause issues with pool, equipment and *egads* people. Don't do that.

pH test is invalid when FC > 10. Please, please, please do not us pool store testing. If you have a proper test kit, it is the gold standard for testing.

Foundational to TFP is testing. Use your test kit and add chemicals as needed based on your testing.

I do have the proper recommended test kit which is what I am using. I just can't believe FC is staying same after 24 hours with the pool still green.

 

[Mdragger88]

The SLAM Process is not an overnight success generally. A swamp can take a full week or more to clear and be various colors/shades during the process. Patience is imperative.
You need to know your cya level via your test kit.
I see a floater - tabs add cya.
Going over slam level doesn’t make slam go faster - just wastes expensive chlorine and risks damage to surfaces and equipment.

 

[Bperry]

I do have the proper recommended test kit which is what I am using. I just can't believe FC is staying same after 24 hours with the pool still green.

You have a better test kit than the pool store. It’s hard to believe sometimes but it’s the truth. Their TA measurement was 20ppm off.

What does FC “around 20” mean? It’s either 20 or it’s some other number. Is it 19.5? That would mean it’s going down. Make sure to write down the actual test result values. No need for estimates or guessing.

 

[Newdude]

And going for pool store testing is like setting your watch to a broken clock. It may look like it worked at first, but.

 

[BkdGrain]

You have a better test kit than the pool store. It’s hard to believe sometimes but it’s the truth. Their TA measurement was 20ppm off.

What does FC “around 20” mean? It’s either 20 or it’s some other number. Is it 19.5? That would mean it’s going down. Make sure to write down the actual test result values. No need for estimates or guessing.

When adding drops into the tube I stop after going over 20. As I was doing 3-4 tests per day I am trying not run out chemicals. I will test CYA today at noon.

Pool is looking little less green today. Pressure was building up quick, but if I turn it off for 15-20 and ran it again it was fine. I don't have multi point valve and it's a pain to remove DE filter to run it in bypass so I ran it over night with automated 20mins on 20min off cycle.

 

[Newdude]

When adding drops into the tube I stop after going over 20. As I was doing 3-4 tests per day I am trying not run out chemicals

Use 5ml samples and each drop is 1ppm. There's more room for error with the smaller sample but it'll be close enough.

 

[PoolStored]

When adding drops into the tube I stop after going over 20. As I was doing 3-4 tests per day I am trying not run out chemicals. I will test CYA today at noon.

Pool is looking little less green today. Pressure was building up quick, but if I turn it off for 15-20 and ran it again it was fine. I don't have multi point valve and it's a pain to remove DE filter to run it in bypass so I ran it over night with automated 20mins on 20min off cycle.

Please...stop...slow down. We can clear the pool, only if you follow the process.

You need to follow the process,

Test your CYA. Here are the instruction, print them out...

CYA - Cyanuric Acid Test

Cyanuric acid (CYA) is the chemical name for the product commonly called “pool water stabilizer” … Read more…

www.troublefreepool.com

When you know your CYA, then look up SLAM level FC for your CYA here...Link-->FC/CYA Levels

When you have your SLAM level FC, then test your FC with the FAS-DPD powder/reagent. Use a 5mL sample. Each drop is 1FC.

FAS-DPD Chlorine Test

The FAS-DPD chlorine test is used to find the level of Free Chlorine in the … Read more…

www.troublefreepool.com

When you have an accurate FC result, use pool math to calculate how much liquid chlorine to add to get you to SLAM level FC. Link-->PoolMath

Print out the SLAM instructions and follow them. Link-->SLAM Process

 

[proavia]

Your signature shows a "Taylor K2600 kit"?
Did you mean a Taylor K2006?
Is it the smaller K2006 or is it the K2006C?
Update your signature with correct information please.

Post a full set of current test results

FC
CC
pH (only accurate when FC is 10 or less)
TA
CH
CYA
Water temperature

Use the extended test kit instructions

Extended Test Kit Directions Archives

www.troublefreepool.com

Take each test to its end point, no stopping after some arbitrary number of drops.
If you think you are starting to get low on testing reagents, order more now.

Does your DE filter have a MPV or push/pull backwash valve?

Follow the SLAM Process to the letter. No shortcuts.