My wiring diagram for current sensing relay

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AW139

AW139

Bronze Supporter
Aug 9, 2023
117
Ontario, Canada
Pool Size
30500
Surface
Fiberglass
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
I would like to preface this by saying I’m faaaaaar from an electrician. In fact I’m mostly posting this to get other people’s (who know more than me) take on this subject.

I’m installing a SWG in the spring, and want to put in some insurance to make sure I don’t turn my SWG into a little bomb by allowing it to run with no flow. Others in here have done it, and I’m just building off what they have posted.

For anyone with decent electrical knowledge, does this wiring diagram look like it would be correct? I’m still going to have my electrician do the install, but want to give him the outline of what I want done so it completes the task needed.

For reference, the parts I am using are as follows. Everything on my equipment pad is 220v, so this will be as well.

Current Sensing Relay;

CR Magnetics CR4395-EH-240-110-A-CD-ELR-I Current Sensing Relay with Internal Transformer, 240 VAC, Energized on High Trip, 1 - 10 AAC Trip Range, 0.5 - 6 Second Trip on Delay ​

​



Voltage Sensing Relay

G7L-2A-TUB-J-CB-AC200/240


3129F85C-9D8B-418F-AB39-73C2513A9939.jpeg


Edit - Updated cleaned up diagram:
AC840E61-27F3-4A78-8F1D-845A74D54081.jpeg
 

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I used a CR Magnetic current sensing relay, part number CR4395-EH-120-110-X-CD-ELR . Here's how I wired mine. I put it in it's own box.

I don't understand introducing the relay...not really necessary unless I'm missing some other piece of equipment...

If the pump is not running, it will turn off the SWG.
csr.png
 
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PoolStored said:
I don't understand introducing the relay...not really necessary unless I'm missing some other piece of equipment...

If the pump is not running, it will turn off the SWG.
csr.png
Click to expand...
The 2nd (voltage) relay is because the current sensing relay is only single post. That means for 220v, it can’t be used to cut both live wires. The single relay would work fine with 110v, since there is only a single live wire, plus the neutral. The voltage relay will cut both 220v connections, since it’s triggered by the current sensing relay.

Technically cutting one of the 220v wires should stop the SWG from running, but things could get messy. At least that’s my understanding. I feel better knowing that it would kill all live wires going to the SWG instead of just one.
 
PoolStored said:
Can you not run your SWCG on 115v? Which one are you buying? Many are switchable...
Click to expand...

On the recommendation of people here, I’m planing on getting a Hayward Aquarite. It can run either 110 or 220, but I don’t have any 110 equipment on my pad, so I don’t have a neutral wire running even if I wanted to go 110v for the SWG.

I have no plans for automation.
 
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I used this one: 240v relay
I actually preferred it over the one from Amazon as this one I have has a built in adjustable time delay feature as well.

Link to my thread for the wiring diagram: wiring CSR

It works BEAUTIFULLY. I have zero issues and it functioned exactly as intended when I had a power outage and the GFCI pump breaker tripped. Please note, my SWCG and pump are on different circuits. I specifically wanted it this way so I can take the SWCG completely out of play if I want to for any reason.

Thanks again to @laprjns for the help :handwave:
 
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Kaylee34 said:
I used this one: 240v relay
I actually preferred it over the one from Amazon as this one I have has a built in adjustable time delay feature as well.

Link to my thread for the wiring diagram: wiring CSR

It works BEAUTIFULLY. I have zero issues and it functioned exactly as intended when I had a power outage and the GFCI pump breaker tripped. Please note, my SWCG and pump are on different circuits. I specifically wanted it this way so I can take the SWCG completely out of play if I want to for any reason.

Thanks again to @laprjns for the help :handwave:
Click to expand...
You just have one of the two 220v wires going through the relay correct? Is it ok to have one live wire still running into the SWG at all times?
 
If you're wiring the pump and SWCG to the same breaker, use the diagram in post #6
If you're wiring to different breakers, use the diagram in post # 8

All my SWCG wiring runs through the relay. It was a VERY tight fit in the waterproof box but it works flawlessly.
 
L1 and L2 from the breaker go through the relay to the SWCG. SWCG panel goes through the relay.
In the diagrams, pump is on the left, SWCG is on the right.

Here's a photo of my configuration which is backwards from the diagrams. Pump is located beneath the main breaker box.
SWCG panel on the left, small gray box in the center houses the relay, breaker box and GFCI outlet on the far right.
IMG_6422.jpg
Gray conduit on front of the post is the main power coming from underground up to the breaker panel. White wire is for the salt cell.
SWCG panel wire goes in relay box at the upper left.
Black conduit running behind the post comes out of relay at bottom left. That's power to the pump.
Black conduit on upper right of relay box goes to the PUMP GFCI breaker
Gray conduit on lower right of relay box goes to SWCG breaker.
 
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I think understand how you have it wired. It’s just that the diagrams shows the relay behind powered by L1 (and L2), but the relay doesn’t interrupt L1 going to the SWCG in any way. Even with the relay being in the “open” position, there is a hot wire going to the SWCG. I honestly don’t know if this is ok or not, hence why I’m implementing the second relay. I would love to find out it is ok, because it would make my wiring much simpler.
 
We were typing at the same time.

I'm sure I'm not answering your question correctly but I can absolutely confirm that if I have no power to the pump, the SWCG loses power. I've tested it many times. I've also had the GFCI breaker for the pump trip and it killed power to the SWCG. Incidentally, THAT breaker did NOT trip.

I'm no electrician either but I had all this tested on site by a fully licensed electrician. I'll do some stuff but this was a major project with a full electrical service upgrade, adding subpanels for the pool and garage.

My curiosity is up so now I'll have to walk out and check something LOL!
 
You don't need the second relay.

If my pump has power but is is not running, the SWCG is dead. No power to the pump (breaker off) the SWCG is dead. No lights on the panel at all.

If it was the flow switch and not the relay, I’d have the power and no flow lights on. I tested this too by unplugging the flow switch with everything running.

Not a great pic but you can see the switch is set to auto and there’s no display or lights on at all. This is with me turning the pump off.

05362C38-BC79-4D16-B698-E9BDC3539B6D.jpeg
 
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Great to know, thanks! I’m going to have my electrician make the final call on if the second relay is required or not. I already have both relays at this point, so I might as well see if he wants to use them.

I did have one of my aircraft maintenance engineers at work go over my wiring drawings. He isn’t a licensed electrician, but working with electrical systems is what he does. He did say that it’s best practice to remove power from both 220v wires if you can, but as long as everything is wired correctly, one wire off should still do the trick.

I think between the pump normally running 24/7, the flow switch, and this relay, it’s a pretty safe bet that the SWG won’t end up on by itself.
 
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2¢. Personally, I'd feel safer using a flow switch over a current sensing relay. The latter detects when the pump is using some amount of power, not that the impeller is actually moving water through the SWG. Only a flow switch can do that. And a flow switch is much cheaper, too. If you'd care to explore this idea, I can help you with the wiring.

If you really want a safe system, you'd use both, your sensor and a flow switch.

FWIW, I say "Personally, I'd feel safer using a flow switch over a current sensing relay" because that's exactly what I did. You can read about it here, complete with the schematic I designed (my circuit does things you don't need, and the flow switch is actually protecting against acid injection, not chlorine, but the function is the same, so you'd have to wade through the parts of it that don't apply to your application).

Hacking IntellipH to work in cold water

As Pentair IntellipH (IpH) automatic acid dosing system owners know, the IpH depends on a Pentair IntellliChlor (IC) saltwater chlorine generator. The IpH uses the IC's power supply, and monitors its flow switch, so that it won't dispense acid if the IC is reporting low flow. Unfortunately, it...
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

All that said, I commend you for adding any protection at all. A lot of people don't.
 
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