When I add chlorine granules my water immediately turn to milk or white clouds. The chlorine level want stay up either.
Milky Pool Water after Shock
- Thread starter GregsPool
- Start date
- Jun 22, 2014
- 51,986
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Hello Greg and welcome to TFP! 
Could be several reasons for what you're seeing. Perhaps a chlorine reaction to pool store products (i.e. algaecides) or something else added to the water that's residual from the winter closing or recent opening. Maybe you can confirm if anything other than bleach/chlorine was added?
Also, please post a full set of test results as that will help us as well. Lastly, don't forget to update your signature!
Nice to have you with us.
Could be several reasons for what you're seeing. Perhaps a chlorine reaction to pool store products (i.e. algaecides) or something else added to the water that's residual from the winter closing or recent opening. Maybe you can confirm if anything other than bleach/chlorine was added?Also, please post a full set of test results as that will help us as well. Lastly, don't forget to update your signature!
Nice to have you with us.I just posted this in the testing section. I did realize you responded. I'm new to forum.
Pool looks pretty good.
I did my first test with this kit and hopefully I did it correctly???
Any advice will be appreciated.
OTO Chlorine Test----------------- 5 +
FAS-DPD Chlorine Test ------------6.5
CYA Test ---------------------------95
PH Test-----------------------------7.5
Calcium Hardness-----------------300
Total Alkalinity---------------------360
CC----------------------------------1
Pool looks pretty good.
I did my first test with this kit and hopefully I did it correctly???
Any advice will be appreciated.
OTO Chlorine Test----------------- 5 +
FAS-DPD Chlorine Test ------------6.5
CYA Test ---------------------------95
PH Test-----------------------------7.5
Calcium Hardness-----------------300
Total Alkalinity---------------------360
CC----------------------------------1
The "chlorine granules" that you used was probably Cal-hypo. hence the cloudiness.
You have three issues with your test results
1. Your CYA is too high. you should drain about 40% of your water to get to a manageable 60 ppm.
2. Your TA is too high but it may be a testing error. I assume the kit is new.....did you wipe the dropper tip between each drop?
3. The CC of 1 needs to come down to .5 ppm or zero.e;levbating your chlorine to about 10+ for a day or so should do it.
Is your water crystal clear?
You have three issues with your test results
1. Your CYA is too high. you should drain about 40% of your water to get to a manageable 60 ppm.
2. Your TA is too high but it may be a testing error. I assume the kit is new.....did you wipe the dropper tip between each drop?
3. The CC of 1 needs to come down to .5 ppm or zero.e;levbating your chlorine to about 10+ for a day or so should do it.
Is your water crystal clear?
- Jun 22, 2014
- 51,986
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Okay, so a couple things that catch my eye you should be concerned about:
- Your CYA is quite high. Either too much conditioner was added in the past, or your pool was fed chlorine tabs/bags of shock that had stabilizer in them. If you do have tabs in use, remove them right away and tock to just regular bleach (chlorine).
- Your CC is a bit elevated. That tells me your pool is working to try and oxidize a lit of stuff - perhaps left-over from winter.
- Your TA is up there. But you can adjust that later.
- When testing FC (accurately), just use the FAS-DPD. The viewing block test is a convenient way to know there is "some" chlorine, but very accurately.
Here's what I would do if in your shoes. Because the water was/is a bit cloudy and the CC's are elevated, I would SLAM. The problem you have right now is the CYA is very high requiring a very high FC level which uses-up a lot of R-0871 drops as well. If you can, I would recommend exchanging some water. In your area, depending on the amount of light your pool receives, you might be fine with a CYA of 30-50. But even if you only change enough water to get the CYA to about 60, that would make your FC SLAM level a "24". So I would first exchange some water, then re-test your CYA to see where it's at and do a SLAM (link below). If your water's not too bad, the SLAM may not take very long, maybe 2-3 days. But that's what I would do first since your water seems to be struggling just a bit from opening.
Oh, and what Dave said.
- Your CYA is quite high. Either too much conditioner was added in the past, or your pool was fed chlorine tabs/bags of shock that had stabilizer in them. If you do have tabs in use, remove them right away and tock to just regular bleach (chlorine).
- Your CC is a bit elevated. That tells me your pool is working to try and oxidize a lit of stuff - perhaps left-over from winter.
- Your TA is up there. But you can adjust that later.
- When testing FC (accurately), just use the FAS-DPD. The viewing block test is a convenient way to know there is "some" chlorine, but very accurately.
Here's what I would do if in your shoes. Because the water was/is a bit cloudy and the CC's are elevated, I would SLAM. The problem you have right now is the CYA is very high requiring a very high FC level which uses-up a lot of R-0871 drops as well. If you can, I would recommend exchanging some water. In your area, depending on the amount of light your pool receives, you might be fine with a CYA of 30-50. But even if you only change enough water to get the CYA to about 60, that would make your FC SLAM level a "24". So I would first exchange some water, then re-test your CYA to see where it's at and do a SLAM (link below). If your water's not too bad, the SLAM may not take very long, maybe 2-3 days. But that's what I would do first since your water seems to be struggling just a bit from opening.
Oh, and what Dave said.
Ok
Looks like I will starting draining. I will post new test results after I fill it back up.
Since it it was my first time testing I did it again and here are those results.
OTO Chlorine 5+
FAS DPD 6
CYA 100+
PH 7.5
Calcium 350
TA 320
CC 1.5
thanks for your help
Looks like I will starting draining. I will post new test results after I fill it back up.
Since it it was my first time testing I did it again and here are those results.
OTO Chlorine 5+
FAS DPD 6
CYA 100+
PH 7.5
Calcium 350
TA 320
CC 1.5
thanks for your help
- Jun 22, 2014
- 51,986
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Yeah, it boils down to the CYA. Since it appears to be slightly higher, you might try a diluted test as seen on the TFP Pool School - CYA page staring at Step 8. That might give you a better idea of the CYA.
I finished filling the pool this morning. It had a little growth in it, so I added some liquid chlorine around 3:30 am. Got home from work at 3:00 pm and did a test. Here are the results. For the OTO and PH test I am just using the little Taylor kit with a file tube and each side (comparing the colors) and all other tests with the TF-100, right? Thanks.
OTO Chlorine 5+
FAS DPD 8
CYA 36
PH 7.6
Calcium 240
TA 140
CC .5
OTO Chlorine 5+
FAS DPD 8
CYA 36
PH 7.6
Calcium 240
TA 140
CC .5
- Jun 22, 2014
- 51,986
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Wow! HUGE change in CYA. Nice. 
So you're wondering what's next right? Here you go:
- Lower pH a little to about 7.2-7.4.
- Round-up CYA to 40, which makes your SLAM FC/Shock level a "16"
Maintain that elevated FC of 16 until you pass all 3 SLAM criteria as noted on the SLAM page (link below). Test as often as needed to ensure your water is holding that FC. No need to test anything else once you start the SLAM. Once you complete the SLAM, let us know and we can guide you through some other adjustments like TA and CH.
As long as you're testing with the FAS-DPD (powder & drops), no need to waste chlorine reagent on the OTO comparator viewing. The FAS-DPD is all you need for FC and CC.
So you're wondering what's next right? Here you go:- Lower pH a little to about 7.2-7.4.
- Round-up CYA to 40, which makes your SLAM FC/Shock level a "16"
Maintain that elevated FC of 16 until you pass all 3 SLAM criteria as noted on the SLAM page (link below). Test as often as needed to ensure your water is holding that FC. No need to test anything else once you start the SLAM. Once you complete the SLAM, let us know and we can guide you through some other adjustments like TA and CH.
As long as you're testing with the FAS-DPD (powder & drops), no need to waste chlorine reagent on the OTO comparator viewing. The FAS-DPD is all you need for FC and CC.
So I finished the slam this morning!
Water looks great!
Here are my current test results
FAS 10
CYA 35
PH 7.4
Calcium 325
TA 170
CC .5
Water looks great!
Here are my current test results
FAS 10
CYA 35
PH 7.4
Calcium 325
TA 170
CC .5
- Jun 22, 2014
- 51,986
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
That was one quick SLAM. That's great if everything passed - all 3 criteria. You certainly want to avoid another SLAM if possible. So congrats!
Yeah, the was a bunch of chlorine, Plus I added to much initially.
Maybe due to filling with city water? Also, I wasn't sure how much chlorine to put in initially to get to 16. I tested it about 2 hours after adding the liquid chlorine and it was at 22. Maybe poor testing since I'm new. I feel like I am doing much better now than I was with the testing.
Thanks for the help this site is awesome.
Maybe due to filling with city water? Also, I wasn't sure how much chlorine to put in initially to get to 16. I tested it about 2 hours after adding the liquid chlorine and it was at 22. Maybe poor testing since I'm new. I feel like I am doing much better now than I was with the testing.
Thanks for the help this site is awesome.
