Main drain line corrosion signs

[proluxline]

Hello,
I converted my pool to saltwater last summer, and recently noticed yellowish corrosion marks on the plastic parts of both main drain lines. I also discovered that my pool has a leak, losing about an inch of water every 24 hours. I'm unsure if the leak is connected to the main drain lines in any way.


Do you have any suggestions on what I should do? I’d prefer not to drain the water, as I’m in California, and water is expensive (I replaced the entire pool water last year).
I am attaching some of the pictures of light, main drain.

Thank you!

 

[mknauss]

Does your fill water have iron in it?

 

[proluxline]

Does your fill water have iron in it?

I don't know just regular water.

 

[Jimrahbe]

Pro,

What you have is two different issues..

That is not 'corrosion'.. and I really doubt that converting to salt water has anything to do with it..

While main drains can have leaks, they are at the bottom of the list of things that often leak... Number one, being the skimmer, and number two, being the pool light.

The best way to find a leak is to let the pool leak down and see where it stops.. The time to do that is when it is too cold to swim..

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[proluxline]

Pro,

What you have is two different issues..

That is not 'corrosion'.. and I really doubt that converting to salt water has anything to do with it..

While main drains can have leaks, they are at the bottom of the list of things that often leak... Number one, being the skimmer, and number two, being the pool light.

The best way to find a leak is to let the pool leak down and see where it stops.. The time to do that is when it is too cold to swim..

Thanks,

Jim R.

thank you for the tip. I will do that way. Any ideas why the main drians both (I have 2) have same yellowish marks on them?

 

[ajw22]

thank you for the tip. I will do that way. Any ideas why the main drians both (I have 2) have same yellowish marks on them?

You have one main drain pipe with two intakes. The two intakes ensure anti-entrapment.

The yellowish marks are likely iron staining.

 

[TinFoilHat]

You guys don't think it might be yellow algae?

 

[Jimrahbe]

You guys don't think it might be yellow algae?

Pro,

Tell us where you normally try to keep your FC, and what your current CYA reading is...

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[proluxline]

Pro,

Tell us where you normally try to keep your FC, and what your current CYA reading is...

Thanks,

Jim R.

hi Jim, I just came from Lesslie, here are my numbers. All these problems started when I constantly get law salt light warning, so I assume that there should be a leak as I added salt periodically and it didn't keep the level.

 

[TinFoilHat]

Forget the Leslies money grab. Get one of your own test kits that we recommend and then post your results from that.
Pool Care Basics
Test Kits Compared
FC/CYA Levels
PoolMath

 

[Jimrahbe]

Pro,



Well... that is not good...

Let's 'assume' that Leslie's numbers are correct... (which I doubt..)

1. A TA of 70 is just fine, you can go down to a TA of 50.. They are just trying to sell you Alk up.
2. A pH of 8 is just slightly high and not all that bad for a saltwater pool.. Most Saltwater pools run at 7.8.
3. Phosphates reported at 197 ppB.. Parts per Billion.. So in reality this is Zero.. Unless of course you'd like to by some PhosFre... You'd have to be in the thousands for this to be high.
4. You have a saltwater pool and they did not test your salt level..

Depending on your SWCG, a low salt light may mean your cell is not making any chlorine... What SWCG system do you have?


With a CYA of 80 you need to have your FC between 6 and 11.. You are at 2.2.

Anything less than 6 ppm of FC can lead to an algae bloom..

A lot also depends on how cold your water is... But I 'assume' the water in your location is well above 60 degrees..

We take care of our pools a lot different than what Leslie's suggests.. We are not here to sell you anything...

Do you still toss in bags of "Pool Shock" on a weekly basis??

How many hours a day do you run the cell? And how big in gallons is your pool?

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[proluxline]

Pro,



Well... that is not good...

Let's 'assume' that Leslie's numbers are correct... (which I doubt..)

1. A TA of 70 is just fine, you can go down to a TA of 50.. They are just trying to sell you Alk up.
2. A pH of 8 is just slightly high and not all that bad for a saltwater pool.. Most Saltwater pools run at 7.8.
3. Phosphates reported at 197 ppB.. Parts per Billion.. So in reality this is Zero.. Unless of course you'd like to by some PhosFre... You'd have to be in the thousands for this to be high.
4. You have a saltwater pool and they did not test your salt level..

Depending on your SWCG, a low salt light may mean your cell is not making any chlorine... What SWCG system do you have?


With a CYA of 80 you need to have your FC between 6 and 11.. You are at 2.2.

Anything less than 6 ppm of FC can lead to an algae bloom..

A lot also depends on how cold your water is... But I 'assume' the water in your location is well above 60 degrees..

We take care of our pools a lot different than what Leslie's suggests.. We are not here to sell you anything...

Do you still toss in bags of "Pool Shock" on a weekly basis??

How many hours a day do you run the cell? And how big in gallons is your pool?

Thanks,

Jim R.

hi Jim, looks like you are a real profi I am not using Lasslie, just was around so thought I can get the number faster. I have Pentair INTELLICHLOR IC40 system, my pool is about 20K gallon. I am pulling half gallon acid biweekly, and salt level was ok. then this problem started, so now I am battling with the leak problem. I ordered the
Pool Leak Detection Dye Kit and Epoxybond Atlas Pool Putty Epoxy so I can check around light and skimmer for possible leak. Any other advice I can get from you? I really appreciate your help.

 

[Jimrahbe]

Pro,

The good news is that an IC40 in a 20K gallon pool is perfect...

The bad news is the IC40 can often report a low salt reading when the salt is really ok.. Anyone with a saltwater pool needs to be able to test the "Actual" salt reading with a test kit, like the Taylor K-1766, so that they can compare the "Reported" salt reading with the "Actual" salt reading.. Without knowing the "actual" salt level, you can never be sure the "reported" salt level is even in the ballpark.

The IC40 uses a thermistor inside the flow switch to measure the water temp and then adjust the salt reading.. When the IC40 is first powered on, you will see the salt lights flashing back and forth for a minute or so.. That is when it is testing the salt level.. If the actual salt level is ok, then the Flow Switch is most likely bad.

You may already know this but just to make sure... The chrome ring around the light does not keep water out of the light niche.. The problem is almost always in the back of the niche where the cable exists into the conduit. I've never fixed one, but I don't think you use epoxy putty, as it hardens up like a rock.. What is in there is more like rubber.. You will just have to ask some one like @JamesW who knows everything..

I have used the putty on skimmers and it appears to work there..

I have had zero luck using the dyes.. It may be just me but I found them worthless..

Do you add weekly bags of "Pool Shock"?

How many hours a day does your cell run?

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[proluxline]

Pro,

The good news is that an IC40 in a 20K gallon pool is perfect...

The bad news is the IC40 can often report a low salt reading when the salt is really ok.. Anyone with a saltwater pool needs to be able to test the "Actual" salt reading with a test kit, like the Taylor K-1766, so that they can compare the "Reported" salt reading with the "Actual" salt reading.. Without knowing the "actual" salt level, you can never be sure the "reported" salt level is even in the ballpark.

The IC40 uses a thermistor inside the flow switch to measure the water temp and then adjust the salt reading.. When the IC40 is first powered on, you will see the salt lights flashing back and forth for a minute or so.. That is when it is testing the salt level.. If the actual salt level is ok, then the Flow Switch is most likely bad.

You may already know this but just to make sure... The chrome ring around the light does not keep water out of the light niche.. The problem is almost always in the back of the niche where the cable exists into the conduit. I've never fixed one, but I don't think you use epoxy putty, as it hardens up like a rock.. What is in there is more like rubber.. You will just have to ask some one like @JamesW who knows everything..

I have used the putty on skimmers and it appears to work there..

I have had zero luck using the dyes.. It may be just me but I found them worthless..

Do you add weekly bags of "Pool Shock"?

How many hours a day does your cell run?

Thanks,

Jim R.

hi Jim, thanks a lot for your detailed explanation, I never use pool shock, just adding acid byweekly, I will check my salt level tm and let you know. And i run about 5 hours my system. I sent the message to @JamesW and asked about what kind of sealant is good for light conduit leak.

 

[PoolStored]

ASSUMING you have a leak in the light conduit, try these:

First line would be one of these. The come in different sizes. Get the right size and voltage protection. (Cord Stopper)

https://intheswim.com/p/cord-stopper-3-4-new-install-12-volt/392174.html

https://intheswim.com/p/gp-tools-cord-stopper1new-install12-volt/389952.html

https://intheswim.com/p/gp-tools-cord-stopper-g-p-1-light-niche-120v/389953.html

If you have two lines to the light:

Tools for Pool & Spa Service

Tools specially designed for the pool & spa industry. Pool & Spa service tools made of steel & rigid PVC for durability. Hytec Fiberglass Sanding Tools quickly sands the back of fiberglass pools and spas in seconds. Custom 3M 24 grit sanding discs for 1/2" arbor.

www.gandptools.com

Second line of defense would be butyl tape. However, the water level will have to be lowered and the niche dried before application.

PoolZoom - Pool Supplies & Parts

Shop the best pool parts and supplies at PoolZoom. Quick shipping and huge in-stock inventory!

www.poolzoom.com

Last line, and the hardest (but not impossible) to remove, you can also use AB Pool Putty:

https://intheswim.com/p/leakmaster-pool-repair-putty/401166.html

 

[Jimrahbe]

Pro,

My question about routinely adding "Pool Shock" was really a trick question...

You passed... no one with a saltwater pool ever needs to add bags of "Pool Shock"..

But, I'll be honest, with an IC40 running only 5 hours a day, I am shocked you don't have algae already... Unless you keep your pool covered???

If you let your pH rest at about 7.8, you can probably cut down on the amount of acid per week.. The lower you try to keep pH, the more acid it will take, and the quicker it will increase.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[proluxline]

ASSUMING you have a leak in the light conduit, try these:

First line would be one of these. The come in different sizes. Get the right size and voltage protection. (Cord Stopper)

https://intheswim.com/p/cord-stopper-3-4-new-install-12-volt/392174.html

https://intheswim.com/p/gp-tools-cord-stopper1new-install12-volt/389952.html

https://intheswim.com/p/gp-tools-cord-stopper-g-p-1-light-niche-120v/389953.html

If you have two lines to the light:

Tools for Pool & Spa Service

Tools specially designed for the pool & spa industry. Pool & Spa service tools made of steel & rigid PVC for durability. Hytec Fiberglass Sanding Tools quickly sands the back of fiberglass pools and spas in seconds. Custom 3M 24 grit sanding discs for 1/2" arbor.

www.gandptools.com

Second line of defense would be butyl tape. However, the water level will have to be lowered and the niche dried before application.

PoolZoom - Pool Supplies & Parts

Shop the best pool parts and supplies at PoolZoom. Quick shipping and huge in-stock inventory!

www.poolzoom.com

Last line, and the hardest (but not impossible) to remove, you can also use AB Pool Putty:

https://intheswim.com/p/leakmaster-pool-repair-putty/401166.html

thank you so much i will look at it.

 

[proluxline]

Pro,

My question about routinely adding "Pool Shock" was really a trick question...

You passed... no one with a saltwater pool ever needs to add bags of "Pool Shock"..

But, I'll be honest, with an IC40 running only 5 hours a day, I am shocked you don't have algae already... Unless you keep your pool covered???

If you let your pH rest at about 7.8, you can probably cut down on the amount of acid per week.. The lower you try to keep pH, the more acid it will take, and the quicker it will increase.

Thanks,

Jim R.

thank you Jim, I will check conditioner and salt level tommorrow. also will try to open the light and put some dye, to see if i can find the leak. will keep you updated. thank you again for all your time and effort.

 

[proluxline]

thank you Jim, I will check conditioner and salt level tommorrow. also will try to open the light and put some dye, to see if i can find the leak. will keep you updated. thank you again for all your time and effort

Pro,

My question about routinely adding "Pool Shock" was really a trick question...

You passed... no one with a saltwater pool ever needs to add bags of "Pool Shock"..

But, I'll be honest, with an IC40 running only 5 hours a day, I am shocked you don't have algae already... Unless you keep your pool covered???

If you let your pH rest at about 7.8, you can probably cut down on the amount of acid per week.. The lower you try to keep pH, the more acid it will take, and the quicker it will increase.

Thanks,

Jim R.

Hi Jim,


I just wanted to update you on what I've done over the past few days. I opened up the light area and applied some epoxy to rule out any leaks. I also replaced the floating valve since it was completely corroded and damaged. I added 5 x 40 lb bags of salt to the pool. Before, the salt reading was at 3, and now it’s about 6, which seems normal.
However, the problem with the IC40 chlorinator persists, as it’s still showing a red light and a low salt error. I opened the cell container and cleaned off some calcium buildup with high-pressure hose water. The system was installed about 7 months ago.
I checked the warranty, and it's for 1 year, but I didn’t buy the unit from an official pool store, nor was it installed by a professional. If the generator turns out to be defective, I’m out about $1,000, and the model isn’t evenbeing made anymore. The newer models are available, but they’re likely more expensive.
Given this situation, could you recommend what I should do next?
Thanks for your help!

 

[Jimrahbe]

Pro,

If the original salt system was installed by a pool builder, or pro, you can DIY replace the cell itself and it will be under warranty.

Turn off the power to the cell, and then turn the power back on..

Does the Red and Green salt lights flash back and forth like a railroad crossing? This usually take a couple of minutes to complete.. (It is testing the salt level)
Does the cell have green flow light??
What other lights are on. If any..?

Thanks,

Jim R.