Keeping Water at Tile Line over Winter?

[redstar]

Hello,

I just had my pool replastered and re-tiled this past fall. I'm very conflicted as to where to keep the water line over winter. Here in central Ohio we can get freezes that leave a layer of ice on the pool for upwards of a month.

The guy that replastered my pool is telling me that after I drain the pool to blowout the plumbing, to then refill the pool back to the tile line. And then place several 1/3 filled jugs of pool antifreeze floating in the pool. He says that these jugs will keep the ice pressure from damaging the tile. He says he doesn't want the plaster to be exposed to air as it can dry out and crack.

What are your guy's thoughts on this?

Thanks

 

[JoyfulNoise]

He’s not wrong. Exposed plaster can undergo freeze/thaw expansion and will crack. Also, the water at the edge of the pool tends to have slightly different chemistry than the bill as it is an area of higher evaporation rates and is usually where dirt and suspended solids will concentrate due to surface tension forces. Putting the water line at the plaster surface can result in a “bathtub ring” discoloration. Tile is much more resistant to that types of discoloration and far easier to clean than plaster.

Unfortunately this is one of the major problems with plaster pools in freezing climates. I think your plaster guy had a good idea - try the water jug method to keep the ice from completely freezing end to end.

Good luck.

 

[ajw22]

The water jugs do not solve the problem of water getting behind the tiles through cracks in the grout and freezing and expanding that loosens or cracks tiles. It is the same freeze thaw process that creates potholes on roads in the winter. The only way to prevent that is keeping water away from your tiles.

I have been draining my pool below the tile line and exposing plaster to the winter for over 30 years without any ill effects on the plaster. The pool and spa have a solid cover protecting the pool in the winter.

You need to pick your poison. I think plaster stands up better then tile to freeze thaw damage.

The one area where plaster gets damaged by freeze thaw cycles are on horizontal surfaces like Baja shelfs, which I don’t have, or steps. You don’t want the water level to be right on a shelf with a thin layer of water that freezes against the plaster.

 

[redstar]

The water jugs do not solve the problem of water getting behind the tiles through cracks in the grout and freezing and expanding that loosens or cracks tiles. It is the same freeze thaw process that creates potholes on roads in the winter. The only way to prevent that is keeping water away from your tiles.

I have been draining my pool below the tile line and exposing plaster to the winter for over 30 years without any ill effects on the plaster. The pool and spa have a solid cover protecting the pool in the winter.

You need to pick your poison. I think plaster stands up better then tile to freeze thaw damage.

The one area where plaster gets damaged by freeze thaw cycles are on horizontal surfaces like Baja shelfs, which I don’t have, or steps. You don’t want the water level to be right on a shelf with a thin layer of water that freezes against the plaster.

So in order for me to be below the tile line, I have to unfortunately drain my pool quite a bit, because right under the tile line is my pool light, and I also don't want the ice to damage the light. The pool light can't easily be removed because it is caulked in place (had to do this due to the really old niche).

So if I drain the pool that far down, I'm exposing about 1/3rd of the pool's plaster as well as a couple steps. You think there is no problem to this over winter?

Thanks!

 

[ajw22]

So if I drain the pool that far down, I'm exposing about 1/3rd of the pool's plaster as well as a couple steps. You think there is no problem to this over winter?

Ok, so your pool builder did not consider how your pool could be properly closed and winterized.

The problem with that much draining is you need water to support your pool cover.

How deep is your pool? How much depth from coping to drained water line?

Instead of talking theoretically show us pics of your situation.

 

[redstar]

Ok, so your pool builder did not consider how your pool could be properly closed and winterized.

The problem with that much draining is you need water to support your pool cover.

How deep is your pool? How much depth from coping to drained water line?

Instead of talking theoretically show us pics of your situation.

I'm out of town so I can try to get better pictures when I get back if needed, but here's a look from my security camera of what I'm dealing with:


You can see the light there at the deep end. Right now the pool is drained to the theoretical below the light line. I do have a cover but as you can obviously see it's not on right now because of the waterline problem. The deep end pool depth is about 6ft and I'm guessing coping to waterline right now is about 2.5ft

 

[ajw22]

You already have snow and ice sitting on the plaster steps and going through freeze thaw cycles. If your steps do fine the rest of your plaster should be fine.

In my view every pool presents a unique situation. You have to recognize the weaknesses in your pool design. You have already discovered the tile is a weakness.

If you need to sacrifice one to the winter gods would it be tile, plaster, or the light? That would determine the water level you want to run in the winter.

 

[JoyfulNoise]

In my opinion, tiles can be replaced much easier than plaster can be repaired. I would much rather set and grout a replacement tile than try to chip out cracked/damage plaster and deal with an ugly plaster patch that doesn’t match. If you ever tried to patch plaster, you’d know that it never looks good no matter what you do.

 

[redstar]

If you need to sacrifice one to the winter gods would it be tile, plaster, or the light? That would determine the water level you want to run in the winter.

To me I guess it comes down to which is going to be the most resilient, and I'm thinking that's the plaster.

My other question/concern with my current waterline in the picture is any concern of the concrete popping with the water that low? There's still a solid foot or two worth of water in the shallow end 4ish in the deep end

 

[ajw22]

My other question/concern with my current waterline in the picture is any concern of the concrete popping with the water that low? There's still a solid foot or two worth of water in the shallow end 4ish in the deep end

No, not in the winter.

 

[Bperry]

After getting some plaster damage this past winter, I’m thinking I’ll lean towards the tile line to keep the water at. It’s much easier for me to replace tile than plaster.