Jandy 3 way valve

[lamia1]

I want to be able to shut the water off completely to the heater when not being used, which is most of the time and all winter in AZ. The way the valve is set up, it appears there is no way to do this.

The heater is also short cycling- I don't understand how to adjust the flow volume to the heater to stop the short cycling because the setup doesn't make sense to me as far as a bypass to the heater. I am guessing there is a way to turn the valve so off is at the outlet to the heater? Any help is appreciated. The pool contractor (sole proprietor) is being incredibly difficult and claiming none of his other customers have problems with the heater and refuses to label or explain how all the valves function.

 

[Jimrahbe]

L,

Turn the valve 180 degrees, with the word 'off' pointed at the heater pipe should shut it off.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[ajw22]

Your heater is probably short cycling due to inadequate water flow. You have the bypass open and water is being split between going to the heater and bypassing it.

Turn the handle 90 degrees and put the red circle on the green circle if you want to run the heater and direct all the water through the heater.

Turn the handle 180 degrees and out the red circle on the blue circle if you want to bypass the heater.

If you are bypassing the heater you must ensure the heater never turns on. If the heater turns on accidentally it can damage the heater or the pipes.

Show me the pipes that carry the heated water back to the return.

 

[proavia]

As presently installed, there is a possibility that you can deadhead the filter and pump.

See the word INLET on the Jandy valve lid? It needs to be orientated toward the filter.
Remove the handle and then carefully remove the 8 screws and the Jandy valve lid. Place the word INLET so it is on the heater outlet pipe side of the valve. Replace the screws and the handle. Do NOT cut the limit tabs off the valve lid or the handle.

Now you can set the Jandy valve to allow water to flow to the heater, bypass the heater, or allow water to flow thru both pipes.

Heed the advice that @ajw22 posted in post #3 also.
Show us a pic of the heater out to the connection back to the pool. Is there a check valve in that pipe?

 

[Jimrahbe]

Show us a pic of the heater out to the connection back to the pool. Is there a check valve in that pipe?

Guys.

Look under the pipe in the 2nd pic, it appears to be coming up out of the ground...

Jim R.

 

[proavia]

Guys.

Look under the pipe in the 2nd pic, it appears to be coming up out of the ground...

Jim R.

Looks like some weird plumbing going on - that's why I asked for clarification of what pipe goes where.

Also, is this a pool only or a pool/spa combo?
It would be great for the OP to fill out their signature with details on the pool, pool equipment (including manufacturers and model numbers) and test kit info. This assists us in providing help based on their specific pool.

https://www.troublefreepool.com/account/signature

 

[lamia1]

Looks like some weird plumbing going on - that's why I asked for clarification of what pipe goes where.

Also, is this a pool only or a pool/spa combo?
It would be great for the OP to fill out their signature with details on the pool, pool equipment (including manufacturers and model numbers) and test kit info. This assists us in providing help based on their specific pool.

https://www.troublefreepool.com/account/signature

Thank you! Yes, weird and since it goes into the ground and then comes back up in different areas, I have no idea what pipes go where. Thanks to the feedback I've received from these responses, (and shared with the contractor), he's agreed to come back on Monday to label all the pipes/valves and set the 3 way valve so that I can bypass the heater, presumably what proavia was suggesting, which does make sense to me. And no, there is no check valve in the heater return line- the contractor refuses to install one, so I may attempt this myself while the pool is empty- he screwed up the acid washing so has to repeat that as well.

 

[lamia1]

L,

Turn the valve 180 degrees, with the word 'off' pointed at the heater pipe should shut it off.

Thanks,

Jim R.

Thanks, but it doesn't.

 

[lamia1]

As presently installed, there is a possibility that you can deadhead the filter and pump.

See the word INLET on the Jandy valve lid? It needs to be orientated toward the filter.
Remove the handle and then carefully remove the 8 screws and the Jandy valve lid. Place the word INLET so it is on the heater outlet pipe side of the valve. Replace the screws and the handle. Do NOT cut the limit tabs off the valve lid or the handle.

Now you can set the Jandy valve to allow water to flow to the heater, bypass the heater, or allow water to flow thru both pipes.

Heed the advice that @ajw22 posted in post #3 also.
Show us a pic of the heater out to the connection back to the pool. Is there a check valve in that pipe?

Thank you- I believe this is the right solution- the contractor is returning monday and I'm going to make him do this so I don't have any issues with him claiming I damaged something. There is no check valve, just the pipe coming up from the ground and into the heater. Contr. refuses to install a check valve- is that truly necessary? I would think that whatever water backflows into the heater would not have a lot of chlorine as it's not circulating.

 

[lamia1]

Looks like some weird plumbing going on - that's why I asked for clarification of what pipe goes where.

Also, is this a pool only or a pool/spa combo?
It would be great for the OP to fill out their signature with details on the pool, pool equipment (including manufacturers and model numbers) and test kit info. This assists us in providing help based on their specific pool.

https://www.troublefreepool.com/account/signature

Pool only.

 

[proavia]

Here's a pic of a proper heater bypass - notice the check valve placement.

File:Heater Bypass Schematic.jpg - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

There are a few reasons to bypass the heater.

• The heater is leaking and you still want to circulate the pool water.
• The water pH is extremely low and you don't want the low pH water to eat away at the heater core.
• You want the most flow with the lowest pump rpm (the heater restricts flow).

High chlorine isn't necessarily a reason to bypass the heater.
It's usually a good idea to circulate some water thru the heater - so allowing full flow directly thru the return pipe and thru the heater at the same time will allow a little chlorinated water to flow thru the heater and the rest thru the bypass pipe. This should provide the least restricted flow.

• Ask your contractor why he won't install a check valve. Chances are his reasoning is flawed.
• Is your contractor aware that a check valve is required when you have a heater and a chlorine tab feeder installed to prevent the highly acidic water from the tab feed from making its way back to the heater when the pump is off?
• A check valve after the heater will prevent any water from entering the heater when the heater is bypassed

 

[lamia1]

Thank you so much for the help!! 1. The contractor won't install the check valve because he says it's not required and this is how he's done it for 20yrs.-he has no reasoning. 2. If a check valve is required with my set up using the tab feeder into the pool (not running through the heater), is there something in writing I can provide him to make him comply? He'll just say the chlorinated water from the pool that backflows into the heater isn't highly concentrated so not damaging. How does the check valve keep the highly acidic water from the tab feeder from getting back into the heater? Isn't it just backflow from the pool which wouldn't be highly concentrated- I am a bit confused by that comment. The check valve would go at the heater return, right? Am I correct that the way the 3 way valve is set up currently that it won't completely bypass the heater? He says he'll show me how to use it correctly, but I still think it needs to be moved as you described to work correctly. I wish I could have you on the phone while he's here as he'll likely argue the point!

 

[ajw22]

2. If a check valve is required with my set up using the tab feeder into the pool (not running through the heater), is there something in writing I can provide him to make him comply?

What model heater do you have?

Every heater installation manual requires a check valve on the heater output if a chlorinator is installed.

He'll just say the chlorinated water from the pool that backflows into the heater isn't highly concentrated so not damaging.

If he says that then he does not know what is in trichlor tablets. Trichlor (tri=3) contains chlorine, CYA and ACID! The acid will create highly acidic water which will backflow into the heater when the pump is off.

How does the check valve keep the highly acidic water from the tab feeder from getting back into the heater?

The check valve is between the chlorinator and the heater and allows the water to only flow one way.

Isn't it just backflow from the pool which wouldn't be highly concentrated- I am a bit confused by that comment. The check valve would go at the heater return, right?

Check valve goes on the heater output pipe before the chorinator.

Am I correct that the way the 3 way valve is set up currently that it won't completely bypass the heater?

Yes, the 3 way valve bypasses the heater but it does not prevent water from entering the heater through the heater output pipe when bypassed.

So if your heater springs a leak internally water will go into the heater and leak out even with the heater bypassed.

He says he'll show me how to use it correctly, but I still think it needs to be moved as you described to work correctly.

It is not about him showing you what it does. It is about the things it still does not do that you need done.

I wish I could have you on the phone while he's here as he'll likely argue the point!

What model heater do you have?

 

[lamia1]

What model heater do you have?

Every heater installation manual requires a check valve on the heater output if a chlorinator is installed.



If he says that then he does not know what is in trichlor tablets. Trichlor (tri=3) contains chlorine, CYA and ACID! The acid will create highly acidic water which will backflow into the heater when the pump is off.



The check valve is between the chlorinator and the heater and allows the water to only flow one way.



Check valve goes on the heater output pipe before the chorinator.



Yes, the 3 way valve bypasses the heater but it does not prevent water from entering the heater through the heater output pipe when bypassed.

So if your heater springs a leak internally water will go into the heater and leak out even with the heater bypassed.




It is not about him showing you what it does. It is about the things it still does not do that you need done.



What model heater do you have?

Raypak 8450ti. You are right, there is a warning in the manual-I don't know if it's even plumbed appropriately even without that valve.

 

[lamia1]

The manual also says to adjust the bypass valve to provide a min. of 30 gal's/min. How would you know other than trial and error?

 

[ajw22]

What model pump do you have?

 

[lamia1]

Pentair intelliflo vsf 3hp.

 

[ajw22]

Pentair intelliflo vsf 3hp.

Your VSF pump will display flow on its control panel. You can leave the bypass closed, so all water goes through the heater, and set an RPM that gives you over 30 GPM.

 

[lamia1]

Thanks!!