Installing a new Intermatic timer... 120 vs 220

[Dallasyoung]

Hey again! I'm in the process of rehabbing a pool in a house I purchased. I'll attach a couple pictures showing my electrical situation. The current timer lets me turn on and off the pool pump but the timer function and box are completely corroded. Chlorinator is also disabled so I'd like to remove that from the wall. I'd really like to replace the timer, especially considering those are live wires partially exposed. I started to do some research, and I'm not sure if it's 120 or 220, and what timer I should actually buy. I'm not much of an electrician, but I know to turn breakers off and check every wire with a voltage tester before I start poking around. Is it as simple as taking the wires out while noting their number, and installing the same way they went out? Should I hire an electrician to do the job? Thanks in advance for the help!

 

[BasicTek]

I just replaced mine, but I could clearly identify the model T104R and corresponding voltage measurements indicated it was a 220. I didn't need to replace my case so I just labeled the wires, turned off the breaker (tested to make sure) and replacement of the module itself was super easy (a few screws holding the wires and an easy release clip in the case). I thought my case looked old with the yellow paper in it, until I see your pic lol.

The principal should be the same for you but verifying the voltage and getting the proper replacement. I might put some wire nuts on the cables ends even with the breaker off. I'm not sure how much trouble replacing the box is from the wall and conduit. In my case the unit cost only $46. I've heard quotes to install are around $150 - $200 but not sure...

To note yours looks exactly like mine but older. The replacement even with case is priced pretty good on amazon.

 

[Dallasyoung]

I just replaced mine, but I could clearly identify the model T104R and corresponding voltage measurements indicated it was a 220. I didn't need to replace my case so I just labeled the wires, turned off the breaker (tested to make sure) and replacement of the module itself was super easy (a few screws holding the wires and an easy release clip in the case). I thought my case looked old with the yellow paper in it, until I see your pic lol.

The principal should be the same for you but verifying the voltage and getting the proper replacement. I might put some wire nuts on the cables ends even with the breaker off. I'm not sure how much trouble replacing the box is from the wall and conduit. In my case the unit cost only $46. I've heard quotes to install are around $150 - $200 but not sure...

To note yours looks exactly like mine but older. The replacement even with case is priced pretty good on amazon.

Gotcha. Unfortunately any product numbers are far gone. It looks like I'll have to get a hole saw bit to drill through the new box as well. I'm thinking as long as I make sure the breaker is off, and properly tape and label the wires with pictures to back me up I should be OK. Now I just need to find out if it is 120 or 220.

 

[BasicTek]

I think because you have the 4 leads it's the 220, also the timer itself looks much newer than the box (probably already replaced) here's a doc that shows the replacement part info might be on the back of it

 

[JamesW]

It looks like you have 230 going to terminals 1 and 3 (This is your line in).

It looks like you have 230 volts (2 hot) going from terminals 2 and 4 to the pump and old lectranator (this is load out).

It looks like you have 115 volts (1 hot and 1 neutral) passing through to feed an outlet.

Confirm with a multimeter.

Check with an electrician if you are not sure about doing this project.

 

[jersey-tech]

Had some issues with the Intermatic timer for the pump at my new house, so I wanted to share my experience.

The house was "flipped" after a foreclosure, and the original owners took most of the pool equipment including the filter (backstory here.) The flippers did almost nothing to rehab the pool, other than installing a new Intermatic T103 timer and replacing an outdoor receptacle (likely the absolute minimum to meet code/inspection requirements.) After we moved in, I had a local pool installer come and install a new sand filter, SWG, and replace the broken/worn PVC plumbing around the equipment. He also got the old Hayward 2HP SuperPump working again, which had been seized. After everything was set up, the pool looked great and all the equipment worked properly with the exception of the T103 timer--it would turn the pump on and off with the manual switch but the timer clock did not advance.



After two weeks of having to remember to turn the pump on and off every day, I had enough and decided to get it working. I tried swapping the clock motor leads to match the wiring diagram exactly (after shutting the breaker, of course) but had no luck. A few google searches of "Intermatic T103 timer not working" turned up suggestions that the voltage might be the problem--the clock motor will only run if the circuit is the correct voltage. And sure enough, the pump was running on a 220v line (controlled by a dual-breaker in the garage) but the T103 timer is for 110v only.

Since the timer was brand new, I didn't want to swap out everything, so I found a cheap T104 on Amazon as well as just the 220v version of the clock motor. But after looking more closely, I questioned the INDOOR USE ONLY warning on the T103 label since the timer is exposed to the elements. A little more research, and it turns out Intermatic offers the "R" series of the T100 timers (T103R, T104R) which include a sealed enclosure rated for outdoor use. So back went the other parts and I picked up a complete T104R timer at my local Home Depot.

(Here's the T104R from the back showing the 208/277v motor with part # WG1573-5E.)

The T104R outdoor-rated housing is a little larger than the T103, so I had to cut some of the electric conduit to get the receptacle to fit on the same mounting post. But I got it all in place and it was easy enough to wire everything correctly on the 220v circuit. Once it was all done, I set the clock, turned the breaker back on and waited an hour... and confirmed I now have a working timer that is rated to withstand the elements!

Long story short: If you have an Intermatic T103 timer and the clock doesn't advance on your 220v circuit, you've got the wrong timer.