- Nov 13, 2023
- 90
- Pool Size
- 17000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool Core-55
Hello everyone,
I just purchased a new home. It has a 17,000 gallon indoor, inground, geothermal heated pool. It’s 14 years old, original vinyl liner and all original pool equipment. It wasn’t used much by the previous owners, but was maintained by the local pool company who built it when new. It has a Pentaire cartridge filter.
When I bought the house, the pool water had a green tint to it, but was clear to the bottom even in the deeper parts. Pool company said it was safe to swim in, and thought the green tint may have been from all the iron in the well water in my area. I have an iron filter for the house water, but the pool and irrigation system are fed pre-iron filter.
When tested they said the TDS were extremely high and suggested I drain the pool down to 6” deep and fill with fresh water (they tested my fill water and said it would be fine).
So I drained the pool and filled with fresh water a few weeks ago. Pool was green after filling. Again tested the water with the pool company and they had me add four, 3” pucks of chlorine tabs to the skimmers, 2lbs of shock with blue algaecide, 6 lbs of balance pak 300 (to raise Ca) and 2.5lbs of pH reducer. It was still pretty cloudy and green so I poured a gallon of liquid standard bleach in the pool.
Pool became clearer but still sort of has a film on the surface. Here are the latest tests results from the pool company test (for “free” as long as I buy pool chemicals from them):
Free chlorine: 0.6
Total chlorine: 6.6
pH: 7.5
Total alkalinity: 133
Calcium hardness: 93
CYA: 45
Optimizer: 11
Phosphate: 4000
TDS: 1600
On their printout, it says comfort is 1 out of 5 stars, clarity is 4 out of 5 stars, and protection is 3 out of 5 stars.
Had some people over to swim, but after an hour of so in the pool room and water, people began to get coughing and watery eyes so we all got out and showered. I’m realizing now that the combined chlorine is likely the culprit for that.
I did just put in 32oz of aqua doc phosphate remover in the pool (left from the previous owner).
The pool company had me add more pak 300 to raise Ca some more and wanted to let the chlorine “balance itself out.” Otherwise he said I’d need to add 17lbs of chlorine tabs.
I’ve read about the SLAM. Is that what I should do now? I want to get my pool chemistry spot on. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks!
I just purchased a new home. It has a 17,000 gallon indoor, inground, geothermal heated pool. It’s 14 years old, original vinyl liner and all original pool equipment. It wasn’t used much by the previous owners, but was maintained by the local pool company who built it when new. It has a Pentaire cartridge filter.
When I bought the house, the pool water had a green tint to it, but was clear to the bottom even in the deeper parts. Pool company said it was safe to swim in, and thought the green tint may have been from all the iron in the well water in my area. I have an iron filter for the house water, but the pool and irrigation system are fed pre-iron filter.
When tested they said the TDS were extremely high and suggested I drain the pool down to 6” deep and fill with fresh water (they tested my fill water and said it would be fine).
So I drained the pool and filled with fresh water a few weeks ago. Pool was green after filling. Again tested the water with the pool company and they had me add four, 3” pucks of chlorine tabs to the skimmers, 2lbs of shock with blue algaecide, 6 lbs of balance pak 300 (to raise Ca) and 2.5lbs of pH reducer. It was still pretty cloudy and green so I poured a gallon of liquid standard bleach in the pool.
Pool became clearer but still sort of has a film on the surface. Here are the latest tests results from the pool company test (for “free” as long as I buy pool chemicals from them):
Free chlorine: 0.6
Total chlorine: 6.6
pH: 7.5
Total alkalinity: 133
Calcium hardness: 93
CYA: 45
Optimizer: 11
Phosphate: 4000
TDS: 1600
On their printout, it says comfort is 1 out of 5 stars, clarity is 4 out of 5 stars, and protection is 3 out of 5 stars.
Had some people over to swim, but after an hour of so in the pool room and water, people began to get coughing and watery eyes so we all got out and showered. I’m realizing now that the combined chlorine is likely the culprit for that.
I did just put in 32oz of aqua doc phosphate remover in the pool (left from the previous owner).
The pool company had me add more pak 300 to raise Ca some more and wanted to let the chlorine “balance itself out.” Otherwise he said I’d need to add 17lbs of chlorine tabs.
I’ve read about the SLAM. Is that what I should do now? I want to get my pool chemistry spot on. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks!
