I'm going to blow-out my pool lines via the skimmer. Questions.

[rdelisa]

My method in the past has been to screw 2" pipe into the skimmer and main drain threads. If I put my cyclone blower directly into the skimmer to blowout the lines, should the filter and pump be plugged or unplugged while blowing?
It seems I should keep things plugged to make sure the water is being purged throughout the entire system and out the pool jets.
I also have a separate valve for the fountain which is above the jets. Once I get all the jets blow-out and plugged, I turn the valve to fountain and get a great deal of water out of it that way.
I am not sure I could still get the water moving out of the fountain if I had the filter and pump unplugged.
My method in the past has been to keep the pump and filter plugged up while I blow-out all the lines. Then my last step is to unplug everything and blow some more from the skimmer line to clear them of any water.
Is this wrong?
The valves show to the left are the skimmer and vacuum lines.

My other issues is that I don't have a valve for the main drain. My method has just been to blow it until I see bubbles then trying to plug it really fast.
This makes me nervous all winter long. I wonder if there is a one-way check valve or something I could attach to my 2" PVC pipe?

Any ideas are welcome

 

[Newdude]

should the filter and pump be plugged or unplugged while blowing?

Plugged, then drain them after. It's less of a deal with a cyclone which can afford some loss, but the more you have it sealed up, the better.

I am not sure I could still get the water moving out of the fountain if I had the filter and pump unplugged

Well, what you've been doing appears to work. So there is that.

My other issues is that I don't have a valve for the main drain. My method has just been to blow it until I see bubbles then trying to plug it really fast

It takes a literal half second for the pipe to fill to the water level.

. I wonder if there is a one-way check valve or something I could attach to my 2" PVC pipe?

Put a valve on it. Reduce the height of the pipe by the width of the valve so it's not sticking up more than it does already.

 

[rdelisa]

Thanks. Exactly what I needed to know. Do you know precisely what kind of valve would fit inside the top opening of the pipe?
I have done some Google searches and can't find exactly what I am looking for.
The main drain has never frozen, so I think it's just reassurance more than anything.

 

[Newdude]

Do you know precisely what kind of valve would fit inside the top opening of the pipe?

I would likely build a new contraption for the MD pipe, reducing it to 1 inch so a smaller Ball valve would fit in the skimmer. Then I'd use an expanding rubber winterizing plug as insurance as ball valves aren't robust. Although, in fairness I just had a fancy schmancy Hayward diverter valve leaking at the 2 season mark so none of them are trustworthy. Lol. The only difference is some can be rebuilt.

 

[rdelisa]

I would likely build a new contraption for the MD pipe, reducing it to 1 inch so a smaller Ball valve would fit in the skimmer. Then I'd use an expanding rubber winterizing plug as insurance as ball valves aren't robust. Although, in fairness I just had a fancy schmancy Hayward diverter valve leaking at the 2 season mark so none of them are trustworthy. Lol. The only difference is some can be rebuilt.

Thanks. I think this will be a work in progress. I bought a 2" PVC valve from Home Depot and it just doesn't quite have enough clearance to fit. I am going to rethink what you said about 1" contraption of some sort.

 

[rdelisa]

A very simple solution thanks to your inspiration:
Used a 2" to 1" reducer bushing on a 1" piece of pipe with a 1" valve on top.
Works great.

 

[Newdude]

Throw an expanding plug in the valve opening. Ball valves are garbage and leak by year 2 or 3 but it was a necessary evil here.