How to install auto bypass for heater with IntelliCenter.

[joepaiii]

I have a pre 2/2021 master temp so no heater bypass on heater circuit board. I want to connect an auto heater bypass to my IntelliCenter. Does anyone have instructions for how to do that. I have the plumbing diagram so that part is a known. I am looking for the actual port to use on the IntelliCenter to control the intellivalve.


I am going to program the stops for fully open when heat called to partially open when no heat called as is discussed in the other threads.

I read a bunch of the discussions on this but they all seem to be talking about running with the newer heaters that have their own bypass.

My IntelliCenter controls 2 valves as is and I had it upgraded to the 10ps (I believe). Anyway basic help on how to add the 3rd valve and how to have it toggle states based on heat call would be helpful to me.

 

[ajw22]

Connect the bypass actuator to VALVE A on the IntelliCenter board.

 

[ajw22]

Then assign Valve A to the Heater Circuit.

 

[Turbo1Ton]

Exactly as Allen suggests. Your Intellicenter will control 4 valves total. Intake/return are 2 of those, they are preprogrammed and you cannot change their actions. Then you have valve A and valve B. You can assign those to a circuit so that they activate when that circuit is selected.

There is an internal heater circuit that you can assign to the valve, as well as to your pump to drive the pump speed up anytime the heater circuit is turned on. So for example, when I'm running my pool circuit at 1200RPM and I turn the heater on for the pool, the RPMs kick up to 3000 so that there is enough flow for the heater. At the same time, when the heater circuit is energized, it rotates the bypass valve sending full flow to the heater.

I would get some screen grabs but it seems the wonderful Intellicenter web interface is goofed up at the moment.

--Jeff

 

[ajw22]

There is an internal heater circuit that you can assign to the valve, as well as to your pump to drive the pump speed up anytime the heater circuit is turned on. So for example, when I'm running my pool circuit at 1200RPM and I turn the heater on for the pool, the RPMs kick up to 3000 so that there is enough flow for the heater. At the same time, when the heater circuit is energized, it rotates the bypass valve sending full flow to the heater.

 

[joepaiii]

Thanks for the quick responses. This will be my protect over the next week. Then to decide if I should open up my rusty manifold or just leave it. I found a local heater that someone is selling and I may just swap my unit.

I also have to check my TA a few times. I am wondering if running it at 50 for too long messed up my heater. Oh well live and learn.

 

[ajw22]

Low TA can lead to low pH. It is low pH that destroys a heater.

Watch your pH more than your TA.

 

[joepaiii]

That’s what I don’t get. My ph tends to run high from the spa waterfall and the swg. Every time I test it’s solid purple and then 1 acid demand drop gets it to 7.4 color so I add 4 -6 cups of acid. Usually about once a week for a 20k gallon pool. I am really struggling to understand the issue.

 

[ajw22]

That’s what I don’t get. My ph tends to run high from the spa waterfall and the swg. Every time I test it’s solid purple and then 1 acid demand drop gets it to 7.4 color so I add 4 -6 cups of acid. Usually about once a week for a 20k gallon pool. I am really struggling to understand the issue.

Best to discuss this on your other thread. Bolts do not rust due to pool water chemistry. It took external corrosion to cause the damage.