Why can some people use the pucks with success and others not? Been battling algae debris at the bottom of my pool for a couple years now and ready to be done with it. Love the convenience of the pucks but hate daily vacuuming. Do I really have to add a gal of liquid bleach every day?
How often do you add liquid chlorine for a 24' above ground pool?
- Thread starter kabs996
- Start date
The key to ensuring that you do not get algae starting is to keep the FC above the minimum for your CYA at all times according to the [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA].
The higher the CYA, the higher you have to keep the FC. Remember, tablets are adding both FC and CYA (and lowering your pH and TA).
If someone happens to get a lot of rain, that can slow or stop the CYA build up from the tablets.
Or if someone happens to not have a lot of nutrients in theri pool, that can slow the algae if the FC drops too low.
Once algae has started though, you need to follow the SLAM Process process to eliminate it ... sounds like this is where you need to start.
The higher the CYA, the higher you have to keep the FC. Remember, tablets are adding both FC and CYA (and lowering your pH and TA).
If someone happens to get a lot of rain, that can slow or stop the CYA build up from the tablets.
Or if someone happens to not have a lot of nutrients in theri pool, that can slow the algae if the FC drops too low.
Once algae has started though, you need to follow the SLAM Process process to eliminate it ... sounds like this is where you need to start.
Too many variables, but essentially "success" (and I use that term super loosely) with pucks comes down to luck. I use the term loosely because most people consider clearish water with "only a little algae" to be a success. I would hardly consider that a success, but before TFP I probably would have. Once you manage your pool to TFPC you tend to find other pools quite lacking whether the owner considers them clear or not.
Welcome to TFP kabs996!
There is a world of information at you finger tips and many many folks here willing to take the time answer all your questions.
But before we get to that, let me pose a few thoughts to ponder... you know how you have friends that you may have some more insight about than others do and you hear those others say things like "what are they doing that they have it so good" when you know for a fact that what appears outwardly may not be 100% accurate to what's going on behind the scenes?
That's exactly what is happening to many pools you see when you hear or think "why can they get away with it when I/others can't".
I have not met anyone yet that gets away with only using pucks. It is because of the other ingredients in the puck.
So, lets get back to the convenience of the pucks... you been battling "something" on the bottom of your pool for a couple of years now. We don't know exactly what it is at this moment, but things we can learn about your pool will guide us to what it is.
Everything starts with knowing what your water is asking for. What does it need right now? Sometimes more importantly is what doesn't it need right now.
Knowing the difference is what TFP is ALL about.
All of the resources here are free and there are a lot of high quality volunteers that are eager to help.
I am glad you found TFP, my family is sure glad that I found it too.
Ditto to funandsun's comments. The thing about pucks is that you could probably be fine for a couple years, until you're not ... and you're staring at a partial drain to rid yourself of excess CYA ... blah, blah, blah.
I personally don't mind spending 10 minutes a day to check my FC level, and typically then adding a quart or two of liquid bleach every day ... honestly takes ten minutes, and I know exactly what is going in the pool and why. Then I might spend another 30 minutes every weekend to dial in pH and TA and such, though with borates in my water and a TA of 70-ish, my pH is super stable.
I personally don't mind spending 10 minutes a day to check my FC level, and typically then adding a quart or two of liquid bleach every day ... honestly takes ten minutes, and I know exactly what is going in the pool and why. Then I might spend another 30 minutes every weekend to dial in pH and TA and such, though with borates in my water and a TA of 70-ish, my pH is super stable.
Thank you......
I have not opened my pool yet because we are replacing some of the rotted boards on the deck. I have been using the same cartridge filter for 12 years. For the past 3-4 I stopped using the Nature 2 system and the automatic chlorinator. Instead I was throwing pucks into the skimmer basket. I started getting clumps of what looked like dirt in the crevices at the bottom of my pool. I have never had a green pool or any algae on the liner. I was constantly vacuuming and as soon as it all settled they would be piles of "dirt" right back on the bottom and every day going forward it would become more and more. Then I needed a new liner......thought oh great fresh water fresh start. Wrong! After about a week I started noticing the "dirt" at the bottom again. I started to wonder if it was dirt and dust from the lawnmower getting into the pool. To this day I still don't really know what it is but when I shock the pool the "dirt" turns gray. Could it be pollen, or dust? I know the cartridge filter cannot filter out those things and there is no backwash option when vacuuming. I am switching to a DE filter this year. I am hoping that whatever keeps collecting at the bottom in little clumps will be caught in the filter when I vacuum.
I have not opened my pool yet because we are replacing some of the rotted boards on the deck. I have been using the same cartridge filter for 12 years. For the past 3-4 I stopped using the Nature 2 system and the automatic chlorinator. Instead I was throwing pucks into the skimmer basket. I started getting clumps of what looked like dirt in the crevices at the bottom of my pool. I have never had a green pool or any algae on the liner. I was constantly vacuuming and as soon as it all settled they would be piles of "dirt" right back on the bottom and every day going forward it would become more and more. Then I needed a new liner......thought oh great fresh water fresh start. Wrong! After about a week I started noticing the "dirt" at the bottom again. I started to wonder if it was dirt and dust from the lawnmower getting into the pool. To this day I still don't really know what it is but when I shock the pool the "dirt" turns gray. Could it be pollen, or dust? I know the cartridge filter cannot filter out those things and there is no backwash option when vacuuming. I am switching to a DE filter this year. I am hoping that whatever keeps collecting at the bottom in little clumps will be caught in the filter when I vacuum.
Lets see if whatever it is makes it past the DE filter.
If you don't have one of the recommended test kits, read through this thread. A lot of funny stories shared from other TFP folks.
https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/160217-quot-You-need-to-order-a-test-kit-quot-Testimonials
Cheers,
Is this a good kit to start with? TRying to save money because I need to buy a new filter this year too.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004BGF7TI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A1DXN92KCKEQV4&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004BGF7TI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A1DXN92KCKEQV4&psc=1
- May 3, 2014
- 62,616
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
It has all the tests you need. However, it has very small amounts of FAS-DPD and CYA reagents. You will need to buy refills of those nearly immediately.
The TF100, when you add together the base K2006 cost plus refills, is a better value. It has more of the reagents you need and less of those you will only test sparingly.
Check it out. TFTestkits.net.
Take care.
The TF100, when you add together the base K2006 cost plus refills, is a better value. It has more of the reagents you need and less of those you will only test sparingly.
Check it out. TFTestkits.net.
Take care.
It is fine, but it lacks a decent amount of the CYA and FAS-DPD reagents, which you will need to refill fairly quickly. This is what makes the TF-100 from tftestkits.net a better deal upfront.
To answer your first question-
Some folks in the Northeast get enough rain/snow in to the pools that they have to lower their pool level at times, and that in a sense is providing them the ability to use pucks during their short swim season. The rain/snow dilute the pool's CYA level and buys them time.
Maddie
Some folks in the Northeast get enough rain/snow in to the pools that they have to lower their pool level at times, and that in a sense is providing them the ability to use pucks during their short swim season. The rain/snow dilute the pool's CYA level and buys them time.
Maddie
cfherrman
TFP Guide
I used about 1.25 gals of 8.25% clorine a week last year, added bleach every day. This year I have too many variables to report a good number. I didn't vacuum last year at all.
Just bought the Taylor K2006 kit
- - - Updated - - -
Question......I lost about 1/3 of my pool water over the winter. I will have to put the hose in the add more water and know my CYA will be low. I have in the past been adding stabilizer to my pool and am thinking if I don't add any this year and rely on the pucks to put some in will that be good?
- - - Updated - - -
Question......I lost about 1/3 of my pool water over the winter. I will have to put the hose in the add more water and know my CYA will be low. I have in the past been adding stabilizer to my pool and am thinking if I don't add any this year and rely on the pucks to put some in will that be good?
- May 3, 2014
- 62,616
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Raising CYA by a significant amount is too slow using Trichlor. You will never keep enough chlorine in the pool to keep in clean and sanitary.
Once you have refilled the pool add enough CYA (after testing what you have) to get to 30 ppm. Then SLAM Process. Once clear, raise your CYA to 40 or 50 and follow the [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA].
Once you have refilled the pool add enough CYA (after testing what you have) to get to 30 ppm. Then SLAM Process. Once clear, raise your CYA to 40 or 50 and follow the [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA].
DeanP66
0
It's still a good idea. It should go very quickly. Once you pass the OCLT, and the other two criteria, you can stop and let FC fall naturally to normal levels.
If the water is clear with no visible algae do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test. If you pass you don't need to slam and you can chloronate as usual.
Kabs996. I used to have the same issue as you for my first two years of pool ownership. I have a 18 ft round 4 ft deep, and I used to use trichlor tab pucks, and I couldn't figure out why I was getting algae outbreaks in the middle of July for 2 years. After coming to tfp and realizing that it was gradually raising my cya levels and that the chlorine was not enough to sanitize the water, it made sense why I was getting algae outbreaks at a certain time of year.
Furthermore I am on a cartridge filter myself, and for 4 years I couldn't figure out why I would get sediment in the same exact spots on the wrinkled part of my liner floor 20 minutes after vaccuming. Everyone here swore it was algae. When I touched it underwater it felt gritty but it dissipated quickly after touching. Came to find out four years later that my manual vacuum head was leaching very fine particles of sand and crushed seashell, which was used as fill weight after a plug came out of the head and dumped the crushed seashell and fine sand all over my floor. Surprisingly my skimmer sock and my 10 Micron Pleatco cartridge filter was not picking this up. I attempted to attach a 5 Micron bag to my return jet, got rid of the vaccum head, and the problem went away. It turns out that the sediment was sitting in my return jet hose and outlets from the ribs and the eyeball, and would gradually disburse in the same spot and the pool 20 minutes after vacuuming.
I also strongly recommend you do not use the trichlor pucks as it will raise the CYA. You want your CYA between 30-50 ppm if your pool is a non salt water generated pool. You definitely do not want to place any trichlor pucks in the skimmer basket as it will corrode your pool pump components.
Stick with the Bleach borax and baking soda or BBB method here at TFP, you won't be sorry you won't have any water chemistry problems and you will definitely save a lot of money. Bleach, Borax, Baking Soda and Muratic Acid is all you will need to maintain your water chemistry, that and maybe some conditioner or stabilizer or CYA if your water is below 30 ppm.
All bleach and pool chlorine is sodium hypochlorite, which adds no additional CYA to your water. Stay away from the trichlor pucks, di chlor granules, and calcium hypochlorite
"shock" packets, unless you specifically have a plaster pool and need a certain level of calcium hardness in your pool. Shocking a pool is a method not a product. Shocking a pool simply means elevating the chlorine levels to a certain height and level to sanitize any imbalances with your water chemistry. Shock is not necessarily a bunch of granulated chlorine that you throw in a pool, although the pool and chemical industry would have you think otherwise.
Once your water chemistry is properly balanced, including your CYA to Chlorine ratio, you probably won't need to add more than one gallon or 121 fl. oz. of bleach a week.
If you are having water chemistry issues, or algae issues, follow the SLAM process until the 3 criteria are met. Order the TF-100 test kit or the Taylor K-2006 C test kit. It will be the best investment towards your pool and in obtaining valuable information on your water chemistry, and adjusting it accordingly.
Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart
Before you go the DE route and spending money to change out for your cartridge filter, I would consider getting a 5 or 1 Micron bag to put over your return jet and see if that helps with better water clarity.
I may be considering just wrapping my cartridge filter with 1 Micron polyester felt material. Duda diesel makes the bag and the felt material.
Furthermore I am on a cartridge filter myself, and for 4 years I couldn't figure out why I would get sediment in the same exact spots on the wrinkled part of my liner floor 20 minutes after vaccuming. Everyone here swore it was algae. When I touched it underwater it felt gritty but it dissipated quickly after touching. Came to find out four years later that my manual vacuum head was leaching very fine particles of sand and crushed seashell, which was used as fill weight after a plug came out of the head and dumped the crushed seashell and fine sand all over my floor. Surprisingly my skimmer sock and my 10 Micron Pleatco cartridge filter was not picking this up. I attempted to attach a 5 Micron bag to my return jet, got rid of the vaccum head, and the problem went away. It turns out that the sediment was sitting in my return jet hose and outlets from the ribs and the eyeball, and would gradually disburse in the same spot and the pool 20 minutes after vacuuming.
I also strongly recommend you do not use the trichlor pucks as it will raise the CYA. You want your CYA between 30-50 ppm if your pool is a non salt water generated pool. You definitely do not want to place any trichlor pucks in the skimmer basket as it will corrode your pool pump components.
Stick with the Bleach borax and baking soda or BBB method here at TFP, you won't be sorry you won't have any water chemistry problems and you will definitely save a lot of money. Bleach, Borax, Baking Soda and Muratic Acid is all you will need to maintain your water chemistry, that and maybe some conditioner or stabilizer or CYA if your water is below 30 ppm.
All bleach and pool chlorine is sodium hypochlorite, which adds no additional CYA to your water. Stay away from the trichlor pucks, di chlor granules, and calcium hypochlorite
"shock" packets, unless you specifically have a plaster pool and need a certain level of calcium hardness in your pool. Shocking a pool is a method not a product. Shocking a pool simply means elevating the chlorine levels to a certain height and level to sanitize any imbalances with your water chemistry. Shock is not necessarily a bunch of granulated chlorine that you throw in a pool, although the pool and chemical industry would have you think otherwise.
Once your water chemistry is properly balanced, including your CYA to Chlorine ratio, you probably won't need to add more than one gallon or 121 fl. oz. of bleach a week.
If you are having water chemistry issues, or algae issues, follow the SLAM process until the 3 criteria are met. Order the TF-100 test kit or the Taylor K-2006 C test kit. It will be the best investment towards your pool and in obtaining valuable information on your water chemistry, and adjusting it accordingly.
Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart
Before you go the DE route and spending money to change out for your cartridge filter, I would consider getting a 5 or 1 Micron bag to put over your return jet and see if that helps with better water clarity.
I may be considering just wrapping my cartridge filter with 1 Micron polyester felt material. Duda diesel makes the bag and the felt material.
- May 3, 2014
- 62,616
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
We refrain form using the"BBB" moniker anymore as most pools never (or seldom) need the last two "B"'s. Folks heard BBB and ran out and stocked up on Bleach, Borax and Baking Soda, generally unnecessarily. Most pools, once stabilized only need chlorine and muriatic acid.
We like TFPC, trouble free pool care, since is more accurately describes the process as many people don't need borax or baking soda.
We like TFPC, trouble free pool care, since is more accurately describes the process as many people don't need borax or baking soda.
