How hard is it to change out this part?

Nikilyn

0
Bronze Supporter
Sep 3, 2018
1,335
Gilbert, AZ
Pool Size
17000
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Our SWG quit working and we found out that this amp, I think it's called, needs to be changed (the bottom grey one). It won't reset when my husband tries to flip it. My husband is an electrician, and has wired many a house, but he doesn't know low voltage. He's hoping someone on here can give him advice on what to do and where to buy a new one. Is it something he can get at Home Depot or is it only sold at pool suppliers? TIA for your help.
 

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Super easy to replace, it’s a low voltage circuit breaker with 2 quick connects on the back. A pair of needle nose pliers to squeeze the tabs on the sides to remove it. But if it’s tripping most likely you have a short in your surge card. I usually refer to @Jimrahbe.
 
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Niki,

While that little circuit breaker 'could' be bad, it is more likely that the salt cell is bad, or the Surge card is bad..

Unplug the cell from the bottom of the IntelliCenter, and with the cell disconnected, see if the breaker will reset. If it still pops, then most likely the surge card is bad. If it only pops with the cell connected to the IntelliCenter, then most likely the cell is bad.

The surge card is mounted to the back wall of the IntelliCenter behind the display..

Do the above tests and let us know what happens..

Do you have a voltmeter??

How old is the salt cell?? Have you inspected it to make sure it is clean and not full of calcium??

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Our cell is clean. It wasn't working so we cleaned it and the lights came on red when we were done. I was worried and then I realized that it was too cold, low 50s water temps. Duh. So we used chlorine. After it warmed up we realized that it wasn't working and there were no lights on it. We googled it and what we found said to look for the fuse. We searched the panel but could find any fuses. The cell is 4 yrs old so we assumed it had finished its lifespan so we ordered a new one. My husband hooked it up and still nothing. He texted with a pool guy in our neighborhood and through pictures he found the amp was tripped. So since it's a new cell we're assuming it's in the panel.
What is a surge card? Not sure what to look for.
Where would be buy the amp breaker thing?
Yes, we have a volt meter.
 
It wasn't working so we cleaned it
Never clean the cell without visible scale buildup. (Think, slathered in toothpaste).

If it does have buildup, follow the cleaning steps at the bottom of the SWG Wiki to reduce the needed acid time which kills the plates.

 
Niki,

The surge card is mounted behind the main panel on the back wall.. It looks something like this.

20160921_115325_resized.jpg

With the cell disconnected, see if the green led is on with the breaker closed..

If the LED is green, then test the DC output on the large Red and Black wires on the left, by testing with your voltmeter. Just put the probes into the back side of the connector, next to the wires.. You should get about 30 to 40 VDC..

If no DC, or the green LED is not on, then test the AC input to the surge card between the two smaller red wires.. It should be about 24 volts AC. If you get 24 VAC, then the breaker should be good.. If you don't get the 24 VAC, then the breaker could be bad, or the transformer could be bad or not getting its input AC voltage.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Never clean the cell without visible scale buildup. (Think, slathered in toothpaste).

If it does have buildup, follow the cleaning steps at the bottom of the SWG Wiki to reduce the needed acid time which kills the plates.

It needed to be cleaned.
 
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Niki,

The surge card is mounted behind the main panel on the back wall.. It looks something like this.

View attachment 639784

With the cell disconnected, see if the green led is on with the breaker closed..

If the LED is green, then test the DC output on the large Red and Black wires on the left, by testing with your voltmeter. Just put the probes into the back side of the connector, next to the wires.. You should get about 30 to 40 VDC..

If no DC, or the green LED is not on, then test the AC input to the surge card between the two smaller red wires.. It should be about 24 volts AC. If you get 24 VAC, then the breaker should be good.. If you don't get the 24 VAC, then the breaker could be bad, or the transformer could be bad or not getting its input AC voltage.

Thanks,

Jim R.
Ours looks a little different than yours. We didn't see any green lights anywhere. There was a yellow light on the other circuit board but none on the little one. We unplugged the cell and it still trips. My husband tried testing all the red and black wires and the meter didn't even move.
 

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Niki,

Unplug the small red wire going to J9 and see if the breaker no longer pops..

If the breaker does not pop with J9 removed, then the surge card is bad..

With J9 disconnected, test between the two small red wires.. Between J8, that is soldered to the card, and the end of the wire that has been removed from J9.. With the breaker reset, you should get about 24 volts AC.. If you get zero, then the breaker may be bad, or you have no voltage going into the SWCG transformer.. Could also be a bad SWCG transformer, but doubtful.

Keep in mind that for the salt transformer to get any AC power at all, your system must be in Auto and the Pool or Spa mode... You cannot be in the service mode.

Another test you can do is to test the voltage going from the load side of the Pump/Filter relay to the Salt transformer.. If not sure, show me a pic of your wiring between the pump/filter relay and thee salt transformer..

Thanks,

Jim R
 
Some semi-related notes:

(1 )
For future reference, Pentair IntelliChlor SWGs have a built-in usage meter. It keeps track of the number of hours the cell has generated chlorine, which is supposed to be about 10,000 hours total. You can access the hours counter quite easily. It's a quick way to determine how close your cell is to end-of-life.

From the manual:
IntelliChlor SCG Usage Hours Meter
The IntelliChlor® SCG provides a built-in cell “usage hours” meter that reports how many hours IntelliChlor has been operating. The IntelliChlor SCG is designed to operate for approximately 10,000 hours before replacement is needed or roughly five (5) years of average use.
To access the system status mode:
  1. Press and hold the MORE button for three (3) seconds until the lights scroll across the unit.
  2. One (1) of the five (5) Sanitizer Output LED indicators (20%, 40%, 60%, 80% and 100%) will be lit,
    indicating the hours of usage. The Output LEDs are as follows:
    • 2000 hours (20% LED on)
    • 4000 hours (40% LED on)
    • 6000 hours (60% LED on)
    • 8000 hours (80% LED on)
    • 10,000 hours (100% LED on)

(2)
And to expound a bit on @Newdude's advice, the plates inside the cell are coated with some sort of rare-earth materials that do the magic (sorry, I forget the actual names of the materials). The materials are very expensive, and once they wear off, your cell is done. Anything you do to clean the plates can accelerate the wear, but nothing does so better than muriatic acid! So you clean the plates as little as possible, as gently as possible, and use as little acid as possible.

(3)
The better solution is to never have to clean them at all. I haven't cleaned mine for years. Keeping your water chemistry to TFP standards, and running your CSI a little negative, ensures the best environment for those plates. I run my CSI at about -0.3, and I never see any build up on my IntelliChlor's plates.

(4)
Once you determine for sure what the problem was, you'll probably find there is nothing wrong with your old SWG (🤞). But keep using the new one, to take full advantage of its warranty. Keep the old one as a spare. When the new one is close to end of life (determined by its usage meter), then swap it out with the old one, keeping the newer one as the backup spare. Use that old one up, then replace it with another new one. Did I lose ya? ;)

Repeat this MO and you'll always have a backup SWG. You never want to be without one, and if recent history tells us anything about supply chains, you can't always count on a replacement being readily available. If you always keep a "near-end-of-life" SWG "in stock," you'll probably never be without one.
 
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Niki,

Unplug the small red wire going to J9 and see if the breaker no longer pops..

If the breaker does not pop with J9 removed, then the surge card is bad..

With J9 disconnected, test between the two small red wires.. Between J8, that is soldered to the card, and the end of the wire that has been removed from J9.. With the breaker reset, you should get about 24 volts AC.. If you get zero, then the breaker may be bad, or you have no voltage going into the SWCG transformer.. Could also be a bad SWCG transformer, but doubtful.

Keep in mind that for the salt transformer to get any AC power at all, your system must be in Auto and the Pool or Spa mode... You cannot be in the service mode.

Another test you can do is to test the voltage going from the load side of the Pump/Filter relay to the Salt transformer.. If not sure, show me a pic of your wiring between the pump/filter relay and thee salt transformer..

Thanks,

Jim R
We were finally able to try this and the breaker didn't trip when he removed J9. He also got 24v. So is the entire green thing the surge card? Is that something we should hire out to be replaced? Where would you get one?
 








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