Help! Pool Feels Like Sandpaper (scale?)

zollinmj

Member
May 6, 2024
22
Virginia, USA
Problem
Almost the entire surface of my gunite/plaster pool (redone ~2 years ago) feels like sand paper. Parts of the walls feel partway to barnacles (exaggerating a bit). The highest step feels relatively smooth. Kiddos are scraping their feet and knees when playing and I’m getting a little worked up about it if I’m honest. Costly purchase, gone wrong?!?!

I’d love some help determining a specific roadmap of steps to take and roughly when to take them.

My thought is to keep the pH (and CSI) pretty low for a couple months and if things don’t improve, drain and sand it down in September.

Chemistry History
You can see my pool math readings for this year, when I learned about you all! Historically, I tried hard to keep what I understood at the time (which has now changed) as good chlorine: 1-3ppm and pH levels: mid 7s. I ALWAYS struggled to keep pH down putting in what felt like a lot of acid. I tested pH, chlorine, and salt myself (Taylor but not FAS-DPD). I checked in with the pool store for the alkalinity, calcium hardness, CYA, but only adjusted for CYA. I’ve learned the error of my ways.

The pool was closed 9/30/2023 and I opened 4/28/2024

Measurement at Opening (no closing measurement ☹️)
pH: 8+ (8.6 according to pool store…I know…)
Cl: 0

Current Measurement
FC: 5 (bringing it back up)
pH: 7.4
TA: 40
CH: 340
CYA: 50

My Guess
The pH was too high and calcium scale (of some form) began to appear.

What I’ve Done
  • Read many resources here (scaling wiki, post after post after post …). Very informative, thank you!
  • Kept the pH low for a few weeks, intending to continue for now.
  • Brushed with a stainless steel brush everyday in one spot for a week: no noticeable change.
  • Used pumice stone in a small area on bench: worked a bit, destroyed the pumice
  • Used a metal paint scraper in a small area on bench: positive effect
  • Used sand paper in a small area on bench: worked great!

Specific Questions:
  1. How do I gather the scale to test and identify it?
    • The wiki/posts I’ve read say to scrape it off and pour acid on it, but it’s all under water and doesn’t just scrape off neatly. Am I missing something?
  2. Anyone willing to take a guess at the likelihood of success for keeping a low CSI of the course of the summer: 10% chance, 50%, 75%?
    • I’m willing to live with this for the season and then take more aggressive measures (draining/sanding or acid washing) in the fall if low CSI has a realistic chance of success. But might take more aggressive measure now if I’m going to have to do it anyway.
  3. Is my CSI too low? How low can it be?
  4. I thought I saw a note about being careful not to damage your heater in this process, maybe because of low CSI? But I can’t find that again, should I be concerned about this?

More Context
I’m a pretty new/novice pool owner (1.5 seasons). I “maintained” the pool over this winter and opened myself for the first time. Unfortunately, by “maintenance” I mean I did nothing. If I’m honest, pool chemistry over the winter didn’t even cross my mind, it does now. I’ve been learning by reading online, followed by trial and what feels like a big error. I brushed heavily as instructed for the first summer and continued brushing at least weekly last year. As mentioned previously, I tested and balanced regularly (as best I knew at the time). Since finding TFP I’m using the FAS-DPD and testing almost daily and feel much more confident about the chemistry I’m maintaining.
 
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You have the general idea of what is the problem and your options.

You can keep your CSI between -0.6 and -1.0 to melt away the scale.

CSI does not affect the heater. Low pH does. Don’t lower your pH below 7.2 to get a lower CSI.

You may need to polish the surface with diamond pads to remove the scale.


Do you close your pool for the winter?

The Borate Pool Opening in Aqua Magazine discusses how borates can limit pH rise while a pool is closed for the winter. High pH while a pool is closed can cause scaling. For those that find their pools with very high pH at Spring opening borates may benefit with the pool open or closed.
 
> CSI does not affect the heater. Low pH does

Ok, that’s helpful to know. I’ll target it down around 7.2-7.4.

> Do you close your pool for the winter?
Edit: Yes it is closed for the winter. I haven’t [personally] so far, I used a pool service. I probably will take that over eventually, but I’m guessing I’ll have them do it one more year. I will be with them as they do it though … I’m still a little nervous about the blowing out the lines bit. I’ll check out the borates article. Thanks!
 
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I closed around 9/30/23 and opened 4/28/24)

I “maintained” the pool over this winter and opened myself for the first time. Unfortunately, by “maintenance” I mean I did nothing. If I’m honest, pool chemistry over the winter didn’t even cross my mind, it does now.

> Do you close your pool for the winter?

I haven’t so far, I probably will eventually, but I’m guessing I’ll have someone do it one more year. I will be with them as they do it though … I’m still a little nervous about the blowing out the lines bit. I’ll check out the borates article. Thanks!


What does closed around 9/30/23 mean then?

Was the pool covered between October and April?

If the pool was uncovered and you did no checking of water chemistry then your pH got way high and lead to the scaling.
 
Yes from October through April it was covered, although with a mesh cover fwiw. (edited my original post slightly to help clarify the dates)

I need to do more reading about winter time maintenance. It's not obvious to me how I would effect the pH over the winter even if I had been checking the chemistry without the pump running to circulate the water. (I'm sure I'll understand when I get a few minutes to read up)
 
Yes from October through April it was covered, although with a mesh cover fwiw. (edited my original post slightly to help clarify the dates)

Covered but your pump running?

I need to do more reading about winter time maintenance. It's not obvious to me how I would effect the pH over the winter even if I had been checking the chemistry without the pump running to circulate the water. (I'm sure I'll understand when I get a few minutes to read up)

You cannot easily without the pump running.
 
Has there been any sense from the crew around here about the likelihood of success of running a low CSI in reducing the scale? If the odds are low and I'm just going to have to sand it down eventually I'm tempted to do it now so I can enjoy a smoother summer. But if low CSI might work, it's not soooo bad I can't wait it out.
 
Has there been any sense from the crew around here about the likelihood of success of running a low CSI in reducing the scale? If the odds are low and I'm just going to have to sand it down eventually I'm tempted to do it now so I can enjoy a smoother summer. But if low CSI might work, it's not soooo bad I can't wait it out.

We cannot judge the thickness of your scale and how long it may take to melt.

I had some winter scaling in my spa one time and kept my CSI low for a few weeks and it melted away. I didn't take my metrics on it or the process since I open it early and just left my water chemistry very negative.

It is all a big science experiment.
 

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I would raise your pH to 7.6 to protect the heater, this will raise your CSI to -.65, and should help melt the scale.
 
I would raise your pH to 7.6 to protect the heater, this will raise your CSI to -.65, and should help melt the scale.

Let's qualify your statement a bit.

A lower pH and thus CSI can cause heater damage if left for a long period of time. Like years. A few weeks should not be an issue. A few months, likely not, but more risk.

Installing a heater bypass would help protect the heater and let you run a lower CSI.


If you want to melt off the scale using water chemistry fairly quickly you need a CSI lower then -0.65. The lower the CSI the more aggressive the water will be to the scale.

It is a risk versus reward situation and you need to decide which path you want to take.
 
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Appreciate the thoughtful discussion. I'm starting to get a better sense of the risk. I ~don't~ do have a heater bypass, so I'll split the difference and keep pH in the middle range rather than super aggressive. Then once the summer heats up bypass the heater and be more aggressive.

@ajw22 I appreciated hearing your experience with reducing the scale in your pool. I guess I was hoping to hear a general sense of "this usually works when people try it" from you folks that have been around for a while, maybe that sense hasn't really been established or it's too situation specific.

I've been running fairly low CSI for about a month now (my logs) and I haven't noticed a difference so far. Do I need to do anything else except keep CSI low? Is brushing heavily important?
 
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@ajw22 I appreciated hearing your experience with reducing the scale in your pool. I guess I was hoping to hear a general sense of "this usually works when people try it" from you folks that have been around for a while, maybe that sense hasn't really been established or it's too situation specific.

Not many people have the problem, know what to do about it, and can report on the results.

It is a very localized problem.

I had the problem one year out of 20. I am going to get borates in the pool which I had a while ago and suspect it may have prevented the winter scaling.

I've been running fairly low CSI for about a month now (my logs) and I haven't noticed a difference so far. Do I need to do anything else except keep CSI low? Is brushing heavily important?

Brushing can't hurt and may help.

Use a metal bristled brush or mixed poly and metal.
 
Yeah, fair enough. Thanks again for the thoughtful responses. Also, I just noticed a typo in my previous post. I DO have a heater bypass already…

Among other things, I think the borates definitely seem with doing.

I’ll try and update this thread as things move along.
 
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