Hayward Aqua rite SWG Tcell-9 high Volts & Amps while generating

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D

Dalia19

0
Aug 20, 2018
15
Jacksons Gap, Al
Pool Size
25000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Aqua Rite (T-9)
Hello,
I’ve been using this site for a while but this is my first post. I need some assistance. Within the last month I replaced my Tcell-9 and flow switch. I noticed that my water was a cloudy green. I got my water tested yesterday and the results are as follows:

25000 gallon pool
FC: 4.64ppm
TC: 5.1ppm
CC: 0.46ppm
PH: 7.7
Alkalinity: 104ppm
Adjusted Alkalinity: 92ppm
Calcium Hardness: 197ppm
Cyanuric Acid: 39ppm
Salt: 2,723

Diagnostic readings:
Instant salt reading: 3,700ppm
Temp: 79
Volts: 30.2
Amps: 7.02
Filter set at: 100ppm
T Cell: 9

My concern is that the volt and amp readings are high as well as the salt reading compared to the test results. Can anyone provide some guidance on what possibly could be the issue? Your assistance is greatly appreciated.
 
As cells fail, they report less salt than what is actually in the water. During this period of time, where you adding salt? What did you use to measure 2723 ppm?

Is the unit shutting down with a high salt/amps warning? The amps are a bit high for that cell but from what I remember, it shouldn't alarm until 8 amps.

BTW, your CYA is much too low for a SWG. It should be at 80 ppm.
 
mas985 said:
As cells fail, they report less salt than what is actually in the water. During this period of time, where you adding salt? What did you use to measure 2723 ppm?

Is the unit shutting down with a high salt/amps warning? The amps are a bit high for that cell but from what I remember, it shouldn't alarm until 8 amps.

BTW, your CYA is much too low for a SWG. It should be at 80 ppm.
Click to expand...
I had the water tested at a hardware store that has pool water testing. No warning lights and it’s not shutting down. Since I added shock yesterday, should I go ahead and add stabilizer to bring up the CYA and add more salt to get closer to the 3400 range?
 
Do not add salt until you do the testing yourself. Don't trust the hardware store tests as they are likely to be inaccurate. Given the amp readings, your salt level is really high so I would trust the SWG unit over the hardware store tests. If the SWG unit does not complain (high or low salt warning), you are good to go. Going forward, you will want a decent test kit. That is the best way to determine if a cell is failing so you don't add too much salt.

 
Thank you, I have it ordered. Do you think I should add in the stabilizer or wait for the salt water test results, and should I put it on super chlorinate to help clear up the water?
 
You can go ahead and get your CYA level up but are you using your own test kit? Again, don't trust the pool stores. Adding CYA to get to 60 ppm is probably safe to do without a test kit. But plan on getting if you don't have one.

TFTestkits.net

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The amps are high for a T-9.

At 7 amps, the salinity would be reading much higher if the unit was set to t9.

The voltage is also unusually high.

Are you sure that the cell was running when you recorded the voltage?

The unit is probably set to T-15.

What model is the box power supply?

Are you sure that the cell is a T-9?

How old is the box?

Do you have aquarite or prologic?
 
JamesW said:
The amps are high for a T-9.

At 7 amps, the salinity would be reading much higher if the unit was set to t9.

The voltage is also unusually high.

Are you sure that the cell was running when you recorded the voltage?

The unit is probably set to T-15.

What model is the box power supply?

Are you sure that the cell is a T-9?

How old is the box?

Do you have aquarite or prologic?
Click to expand...
I have an Aqua rite and yes it was running when I checked it and it is set to the correct cell.
 
mas985 said:
You can go ahead and get your CYA level up but are you using your own test kit? Again, don't trust the pool stores. Adding CYA to get to 60 ppm is probably safe to do without a test kit. But plan on getting if you don't have one.

TFTestkits.net

<meta name=google-site-verification content=AyvM6cSnKb2OYzhrqFW-2RXf8opLhr1cWK8ZCwnUVN4 />
tftestkits.net tftestkits.net

Amazon.com : TAYLOR TECHNOLOGIES INC K-2006 TEST KIT COMP CHLORINE FAS-DPD : Swimming Pool Liquid Test Kits : Garden & Outdoor

Amazon.com : TAYLOR TECHNOLOGIES INC K-2006 TEST KIT COMP CHLORINE FAS-DPD : Swimming Pool Liquid Test Kits : Garden & Outdoor
www.amazon.com
Click to expand...
Thank you, I’ll get the test kits and get better info on the water.
 
The T-9 at 5.4 amps reads about 4,000 ppm.

So I don't think that the salt is reading 3,700 ppm at 7 amps if it is set to T- 9.

For AquaRite, move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.

Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.

Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.

Switching the unit off and then back on makes the unit reverse polarity.

Report all readings.

What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?

What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?

What is the T-cell size?

Is the T-cell size set correctly in settings?

To get the performance percentage of the cell in each polarity, divide the instant salinity reading in each polarity by the actual salinity reading.

For example, if the instant reading is 3,300 ppm and the actual salinity reading is 3,300 ppm, then the salt cell is working at 100%.

However, if the actual salinity was 3,800 ppm, then the performance percentage is 86.8%.

Anything over 75% is acceptable.

At75%, or lower, in either polarity, it's time to consider replacing the cell.

The instant salinity in both polarities should be about the same (+/- about 200 ppm).

You need to be really sure about the actual salinity reading.

You need to use a K-1766 salt test kit or a calibrated meter.

K-1766 Taylor Salt Test

Note that ProLogic, AquaLogic and AquaPlus use the Hayward T Cell.

However, the procedure to get the diagnostic readings is different.

Here is the procedure for ProLogic, AquaLogic and AquaPlus:

Go to the diagnostic screen, note the readings and then press the + button to reverse the polarity.

When the new numbers appear, see what they are.

Then, press + again and note the new readings.
 

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In my opinion, the setting is probably T-15 and the voltage is probably about 24.4 while generating.

The voltage is 30 to 32 volts when not generating and the voltage drops by about 1 volt per amp of current.

7.02 x (25888 – (163.43 x 79)) ÷ 24.4 = 3,733 ppm.

If you have a T-9 cell, the actual salinity is probably about 5,300 to 5,500 ppm.

If you switch the setting to T-9, the actual salinity will be correct.
 
JamesW said:
In my opinion, the setting is probably T-15 and the voltage is probably about 24.4 while generating.

The voltage is 30 to 32 volts when not generating and the voltage drops by about 1 volt per amp of current.

7.02 x (25888 – (163.43 x 79)) ÷ 24.4 = 3,733 ppm.

If you have a T-9 cell, the actual salinity is probably about 5,300 to 5,500 ppm.

If you switch the setting to T-9, the actual salinity will be correct.
Click to expand...
 

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JamesW said:
The T-9 at 5.4 amps reads about 4,000 ppm.

So I don't think that the salt is reading 3,700 ppm at 7 amps if it is set to T- 9.

For AquaRite, move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.

Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.

Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.

Switching the unit off and then back on makes the unit reverse polarity.

Report all readings.

What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?

What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?

What is the T-cell size?

Is the T-cell size set correctly in settings?

To get the performance percentage of the cell in each polarity, divide the instant salinity reading in each polarity by the actual salinity reading.

For example, if the instant reading is 3,300 ppm and the actual salinity reading is 3,300 ppm, then the salt cell is working at 100%.

However, if the actual salinity was 3,800 ppm, then the performance percentage is 86.8%.

Anything over 75% is acceptable.

At75%, or lower, in either polarity, it's time to consider replacing the cell.

The instant salinity in both polarities should be about the same (+/- about 200 ppm).

You need to be really sure about the actual salinity reading.

You need to use a K-1766 salt test kit or a calibrated meter.

K-1766 Taylor Salt Test

Note that ProLogic, AquaLogic and AquaPlus use the Hayward T Cell.

However, the procedure to get the diagnostic readings is different.

Here is the procedure for ProLogic, AquaLogic and AquaPlus:

Go to the diagnostic screen, note the readings and then press the + button to reverse the polarity.

When the new numbers appear, see what they are.

Then, press + again and note the new readings.
Click to expand...
The cell 3E20308-70233
Both readings show 3700ppm
Volts 29.7
Amps 7.01
Filter dial set to 50
 
7A is a lot of current for T-9 cell (unless your salinity is really high or temp is very hot).

I have never seen a Aquarite give such a large current and still maintain close to 30V.

Obviously the PCB could be bad, the formula to calculate the salinity is already posted by JamesW.

Anyway, switch the unit off, what is the voltage ? (when current is 0)
 
The numbers just don't make sense.

What is the voltage when not generating?

I would check the amperage and voltage separately with a meter at the red and black wires.

What is the input voltage (measured)?

Is the voltage selector set correctly?

Do not change the selector unless you are 100% sure that it is set incorrectly.

Can you show a picture of the circuit board with the display board removed so that we can see the whole circuit board?

Has the circuit board ever been replaced?

If yes, was it a genuine Hayward or was it a generic Chinese aftermarket circuit board?

Can you show a picture of the cell label?

You need to verify the actual salinity with a good test kit or calibrated salt meter.
 
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