Hayward aqua rite 900 flow switch question

[Orion7319]

I’m wondering if this is normal behavior. I have a Hayward aqua rite 900. At the end of last summer I replaced the single speed pump with a new VS pump. Previously both the pump and the salt water generator were wired to the timer and so would turn on and off simultaneously. This winter I removed both the salt cell and the flow switch to store for the winter. I replaced the salt cell with a dummy switch and used a plug to close the hole where the flow switch installs. Yesterday I put the salt cell and the flow switch back in line. I have a low salt reading so the cell won’t run for more then a few minutes before it trips a low salt error. I was expecting that and the cell is reading very close to what my tests indicates which is 2400 it’s minimum requirement is 2700. When I fire up the salt cell it does the normal routine of waiting for the flow sensor to kick in, so far so good. At this point I decided to try something I haven’t ever tried before. I left the salt cell on and turned off the pump to see if the lack of flow would turn off the generator just to see if that worked. It didn’t seem to. I didn’t leave the pump off for long though. Is this normal behavior? Is there a delay between the time the pump would shut off and the lack of flow turns off the generator? Long post for such a simple question I know, just giving background information. One thing I noticed when I removed the flow switch is the installer managed to get a bit of PVC glue on it.

 

[Orion7319]

So I’m thinking the flow switch is stuck in the closed position. Given that there is some bit of glue on it, I doubt it was ever really working correctly. I think I should replace it. Should I go for OEM or will one of the cheaper aftermarket options be OK?

 

[ajw22]

Flow switch is easy to test with a multimeter or continuity checker.

Check that the flow switch connector is not corroded.

The flow switch light will blink for about 30 seconds from the time it detects a closed flow switch and then the light should go out.

If the light is on steady, then it thinks that the flow switch is open.

You can use an old phone plug with the wires twisted together to simulate a closed flow switch. Test only. Do not leave it like that.

 

[mguzzy]

Dumb question, but I have to ask. Did you put the flow switch in backwards?

 

[Pool_Medic]

How did you remove the flow switch, it’s glued on both ends, if you unscrewed it you could of damaged the metal contact rod. Do you have the arrows aligned correctly?

Just and FYI, neither the cell nor the flow switch need to be removed for winter.

 

[Orion7319]

Flow switch is easy to test with a multimeter or continuity checker.

Check that the flow switch connector is not corroded.

The flow switch light will blink for about 30 seconds from the time it detects a closed flow switch and then the light should go out.

If the light is on steady, then it thinks that the flow switch is open.

You can use an old phone plug with the wires twisted together to simulate a closed flow switch. Test only. Do not leave it like that.

I’m having the opposite problem. The salt water generator won’t shut off when I turn off the pool pump. The connectors aren’t corroded. All of my equipment is inside a shed and doesn’t get exposed to rain. Yours is a good idea, but I need to do is the opposite of your suggestion. I need to turn on the system with the switch unplugged. That will tell me if the issue is with the switch or the PCB board if the system detects flow. I’m also going to take the switch out, reinstall the plug and see if it works outside of the plumbing.

 

[Orion7319]

Dumb question, but I have to ask. Did you put the flow switch in backwards?

I placed it in with the arrow pointed in the direction of the flow. What I’m not sure of though is if I screwed it in tight enough now that I think about it.

 

[Orion7319]

How did you remove the flow switch, it’s glued on both ends, if you unscrewed it you could of damaged the metal contact rod. Do you have the arrows aligned correctly?

Just and FYI, neither the cell nor the flow switch need to be removed for winter.

It just has a bit of PVC glue on the spring side of the switch. It’s on the plastic contact part. The pipe is installed vertically going straight down into the concrete slab. I think the fellow must have glued in the tee in with the switch installed and a bit of glue just dripped down onto it. I’m wondering if this glue might affect how the switch performs in this downward position with the added weight. This is what I’m thinking might be the issue as the spring side is being affected by gravity and with the glue on the very end of the spring... actually should it even be installed in a vertical position at all???? I’m going to try to remove all the glue with an exacto blade and see if that makes a difference. I hope I don’t have to replumb this all. I’m not sure I have the room to install a new tee horizontally.

EDIT: All I should have to do is take out the switch and hold it in the air in that position and see if it closes. If I have to replumb all this I will need to push the filter and the pump back.. that’s going to be a lot of work....

And yes this shed is nasty. This is the condition it was in when we purchased. Due to a drainage issue in the yard it floods... but that’s a whole other and more expensive problem...

 

[C0d3Sp4c3]

My flow switch was installed vertically as well and I have no issues at all. Fyi, my Hayward OEM flow switch was shipped pre-installed onto a tee.
Follow Allen's suggestion above. Use a hacked tel cord to troubleshoot the flow issue.

 

[Orion7319]

My flow switch was installed vertically as well and I have no issues at all. Fyi, my Hayward OEM flow switch was shipped pre-installed onto a tee.
Follow Allen's suggestion above. Use a hacked tel cord to troubleshoot the flow issue.

Thank you so much, that is very good to know!!

 

[Pool_Medic]

Technically the flow switch should have a straight 12” section, that illuminates cavitation which can affect flow.

 

[Orion7319]

Technically the flow switch should have a straight 12” section, that illuminates cavitation which can affect flow.

Before the flow switch correct? And it can be vertical, correct? I could raise the salt cell up by at least a foot. But would the lack of the 12 inch section preventing the flow switch from shutting down the salt water generator when the pump is off?

 

[Pool_Medic]

Yes before it.

If your filter is dirty it can affect flow, that reduced flow can restrict flow switch. As you already removed flow switch once, remove it again and push the button to simulate the water flow, controller should flash no flow for 30-40 seconds and then go green.

 

[Orion7319]

Yes before it.

If your filter is dirty it can affect flow, that reduced flow can restrict flow switch. As you already removed flow switch once, remove it again and push the button to simulate the water flow, controller should flash no flow for 30-40 seconds and then go green.

I seem to have resolved the issue. I simply plugged and unplugged the sensor from the generator a few times and now it seems to be happy. Weird... I’ll keep an eye on it. Probably something simple like condensation or I might have gotten the plug wet yesterday while reinstalling everything. I will make sure to keep an eye out on the filter. I do backwash it at least once a month or when I know it should be dirty. It’s pollen season right now and everything is starting to get coated in the yellow pine pollen. I will certainly backwash once the trees calm down a bit.