fusion soft not producing chlorine

[joseph0linda]

Hello,
I'm fairly new to this pool stuff and need help with SWG. We have the fusion soft, we changed the cell last year, and the mineral cartridge as well (but recently took out the inside parts after reading about that on this website.)
The last few months we have been adding liquid chlorine because the levels were low, we are currently adding liquid chlorine a few times a week which keeps the water clear, but for the past month the pool has had algae spots on bottom of it (we brush it a few times a week-in addition to daily pool vacuum runs,) and still cannot get rid of these algae spots. We are running the pump at 100% about 12 hours daily. I have ordered my own testing kit (to reduce trips to the pool store).
We have tried multiple things that we've run across online, and nothing is helping. I feel like we are losing plaster will all this scrubbing and am really needing help right now. I have had the pool company come for a diagnosis, and they said it's "either cell malfunction, a wiring problem, or maybe system is not able to keep up with the hot, humid Florida days" -I was very dissapointed to hear them tell me what I already knew -and I don't want to replace everything just to find out it's something else that was the problem.
Also we are getting a "dE" error code, and it is stuck on "cell reversing" with occasional flash of light on "service."
Any suggestions?

 

[HermanTX]

Welcome to TFP. So happy you have found this site as lots of support available.

Do you have a variable speed pump? You could consider running it longer at a lower speed but still ensure the SWCG is operating. This would generate chlorine consistently over a longer period.

Others may fill in regarding your error code for your fusion SWCG. You may want to give specific info on the model and other type of equipment you have. You can add that to your signature under the profile setting.

For now, suggest you ensure you are using sufficient LC to maintain your FC levels if your SWCG is not operating. Do you know what your CYA level is for the pool?

Once you get your test kit, please post a full set of data as that may help determine next steps.

You may want to read up on SLAM Process as that is effective in getting rid of the lingering algae. But you need your test kit first.

 

[Jimrahbe]

Jo,

I know nothing about your specific Jandy SWCG, but it seems that we have seen several reports of problems with the cables going to the unit.. The power cable where it plugs into the top of the salt cell, and the sensor cable that plugs into the end of the unit..

I suggest that you remove these two cables and inspect the connections.. I'd be looking for any corrosion or heat damage.

Not sure that will help, but it is something that you could easily do yourself.

Let's see if @PoolGate has any inputs, as he has the same unit...

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[mknauss]

Nature2 Fusion - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Shows some troubleshooting items for the Fusion SWCG.

 

[PoolGate]

How old is the control unit for the system? Do you control it from Aqualink? It is not likely that a 1 year old cell is the issue so I would suspect the control unit for it. Can you post a picture of the error code on the unit? Also if you could post a full set of test results. Do you have calcium scaling issues? When you take your cell out is there a lot of deposits on the plates? A picture of the cell would also be great.

For now, get some liquid chlorine in the pool asap and read pool school on this site.

 

[SecoSteve]

I don't see the "dE" error code anywhere. Mostly, just 3 digit codes, plus some two letter codes, but not dE. Are you sure it is that code? Once you receive your test kit, I would take a sample directly in front of a return to see if that water has chlorine. Also, you may want to check the CYA level and make sure it's not too high.

Also, when you removed the mineral cartridge, did the problems with the chlorine start?

 

[ajw22]

How many gallons in your pool?

Do you have the 700 or the 1400 size cell?

Without knowing that I can't say for sure but my guess is 12 hours a day of runtime is insufficient to generate the chlorine your pool needs. Crank up your pump to run the cell 24 hours a day at 100% and see how much FC it gives you. Once the FC gets above the FC target for your CYA then you can reduce the pump runtime or %.

When you get your test lit do a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test to determine if you have algae consuming your chlorine.

 

[joseph0linda]

Thank you all for all the response. We will be trying a few more things based on your suggestions.
Pool Size 23,000 Gallons.
The sensor cables did have some corrosion (no heat damage), and we cleaned that and put it back together.

Our filter is a DE filter and I guess we did not add enough DE after backwashing (now we read the front of the filter for exact amount of DE we should have been adding-and have done that)-maybe that's why we had the "dE" error code in the first place? and the code does NOT come on anymore, so I'm thinking that was the problem.

I keep putting the pump up to 100%, but it automatically changes down to 35% after a few minutes, and the "cell reversing" light is always on.

Here are some pictures,
We got the water tested at the pool store, and I took the sample directly in front of a return, we added 2 gallons of liquid chlorine after this sample was taken, and the CYA level is a little high.
The cell-it's a 1400, we've cleaned it a few times and there are was no major buildup on it, and we also cleaned it once with muriatic acid (1 part acid, 10 parts water).

 

[PoolGate]

I don't know what "dE" is, but it has nothing to do with Diatomaceous Earth. Maybe that is some tri-sensor error. Are you saying you set chlorine production to 100% but it changes on its own back to 35%? You should only clean your cell if it has visible signs of scaling on it. Cleaning the cell shortens the cell life. LO usually means low temperature or low salt level.

What is the temp reading on the SWG panel? What is the salt reading on the SWG panel? Do you have another Aqualink controller or are you using the panel to manage the chlorine production percent?

For sure your pool needs more chlorine. I suggest you purchase a Taylor lab grade test kit like the TF-100 and take a full set of tests. We need to know your CYA level to give you a recommended chlorine level they are tied at the hip.

FYI: That cell is "dumb" - It has no electronics in it at all. It is simple a collection of plates and 3 electrodes.

Also - please fill out your sigline here -> https://www.troublefreepool.com/account/signature

 

[joseph0linda]

Yeah-the whole DE thing is weird, and we did not find anything about it online, regardless- that error code no longer comes on.
I attached the water test in the previous reply, and the CYA is a little high. Also, I just ordered a testing kit after reading about it on this website.

 

[HermanTX]

and the CYA is a little high. Also, I just ordered a testing kit after reading about it on this website.

What you may find out is that your CYA is a lot higher than 100. The scale on the tube only goes to 100. It looks like you did your pool test at Pinch A Penny. Once you get your personal test kit, you will need to read up on CYA testing as you may need to do a dilution test to get a better feel as to how high above 100 you may be. Lets hope not but that is a possibility.

 

[PoolGate]

Yeah-the whole DE thing is weird, and we did not find anything about it online, regardless- that error code no longer comes on.
I attached the water test in the previous reply, and the CYA is a little high. Also, I just ordered a testing kit after reading about it on this website.

At a minimum, you need to be maintaining at least a 15 for free chlorine. That is if we believe that stabilizer/CYA number to be correct at 100, which we do not. And 15 is IF you have no algae or other issues which need a SLAM process to resolve.

 

[setsailsoon]

Joseph,

Welcome to TFP! I wish I could help on the "dE" code but I can't. You may want to call Jandy tech support. Sometimes you get one of their better people that can at least point you in the right direction instead of "call a professional". It's kind of hit or miss.

Is photo 4343 in post #8 your pool bottom? If so it sure looks like you have active algae and you're gonna need a SLAM as soon as you get your test kit. You'll need your kit to do it. You can read up on it in Pool School and here's a video:



Chris

 

[joseph0linda]

Spoke to Jandy- they said the dE could be have been an error code coming from the sensor-(again...that code has not been on anymore for about a month now.)
The LO code is referring to low water temperature, (under 50 degrees), but we're in central Florida-pool temp is in the 80's, and that is not the case- so she was thinking it's very likely this is a power board issue.
She also encouraged us to schedule another professional to come in, (we're choosing a different company for sure), and if they can't figure out the issue-make sure they call Jandy to walk them through things.
Most companies are about 2 weeks out on appoinments, so for now-we're waiting on them....
Got the testing kit, and most things were within the ideal levels. PH was 7.8, (so added acid), the total/and free chlorine were almost non existant (so we added liquid chlorine) and will be checking levels again shortly.
Just wanted to keep you guys updated-thank you for your input.

 

[HermanTX]

Spoke to Jandy- they said the dE could be have been an error code coming from the sensor-(again...that code has not been on anymore for about a month now.)
The LO code is referring to low water temperature, (under 50 degrees), but we're in central Florida-pool temp is in the 80's, and that is not the case- so she was thinking it's very likely this is a power board issue.
She also encouraged us to schedule another professional to come in, (we're choosing a different company for sure), and if they can't figure out the issue-make sure they call Jandy to walk them through things.
Most companies are about 2 weeks out on appoinments, so for now-we're waiting on them....
Got the testing kit, and most things were within the ideal levels. PH was 7.8, (so added acid), the total/and free chlorine were almost non existant (so we added liquid chlorine) and will be checking levels again shortly.
Just wanted to keep you guys updated-thank you for your input.

thanks for the update.
Do you use the PoolMath app? If so, you can connect your pool test results that you put in Pool Math to your profile.
Please post a full set of results. I would be interested in what you found your CYA to be since the pool store was above 100.