Fusion Inground Nature2- High FC&CYA

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SylKal

SylKal

Member
Aug 30, 2022
24
Chapel Hill NC
Pool Size
20000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
We have a 20K Gal Inground with a fusion nature2 Tri-Chlor system that is a year old. I have my chlorine adjusted to the minimum of 1 and my pump at 35GPM. My FC is 8.31 and my CYA is 142 (down from 151) I have done a couple of small drains and refills to get it to 142. What other alternatives do I have when it comes to chlorinating? I don't want to keep chasing the CYA and FC. How can it be managed better?

Latest Test results:
FC-8.31
TotCH-8.31
pH-7.7
Alkalinity-113
Adj Alkalinity-96
Hardness-297
Iron-0.10
Copper-0.20
Phosphate-129
 
S,

The very first thing you need to do is get your CYA down to between 30 and 50 ppm.

Everything else you do will be just a waste of your time.

The only way to reduce your CYA is to drain most of the water in your pool and start over.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
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SylKal said:
We have a 20K Gal Inground with a fusion nature2 Tri-Chlor system that is a year old. I have my chlorine adjusted to the minimum of 1 and my pump at 35GPM. My FC is 8.31 and my CYA is 142 (down from 151) I have done a couple of small drains and refills to get it to 142. What other alternatives do I have when it comes to chlorinating? I don't want to keep chasing the CYA and FC. How can it be managed better?

Latest Test results:
FC-8.31
TotCH-8.31
pH-7.7
Alkalinity-113
Adj Alkalinity-96
Hardness-297
Iron-0.10
Copper-0.20
Phosphate-129
Click to expand...
Jim forgot to mention above that trusting those pool store test results will lead you down a bad path. Get one of the recommended test kits here and then post those results.
 
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Tricolor is adding CYA to your pool and according to your results CYA has gone super high. If you drain and get your CYA under control and continue to use tricolor instead of liquid bleach or SWG, you may have to make replacing your water part of your routine to keep CYA in check.

 
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Ok, your biggest problem is that you're trusting a pool store to do your testing. They get it wrong more often than right, sadly.
So we always hope that pool owners will take charge of the testing and do it with a kit that contains the FAS-DPD tester.
Test Kits Compared
The best kit for your size pool, IMO, is that TF-100. www.tftestkits.net

Next off, that mineral system is adding metals to your pool and water. Eventually you're going to see stains develop on the pool and you'll wonder why? Your water, along with any blond swimmers hair can also turn green.

Please read some basics we follow- Pool Care Basics
Believe it or not, your FC is at an appropriate amount for CYA that high. CYA and FC need to be balanced, but when the CYA gets too high it takes so much chlorine to manage it cause problems either with algae or cost.

I spend no more than $150 on my pool water care yearly. A salt system, some liquid chlorine in the winter and my test kit refills and in 11 years I've never once had algae. I learned the TFP way early on, thankfully!

We're happy to help you learn too. Just folllow the TFP care methods.

Maddie 🇮🇹
 
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First off, THANK YOU to everyone. I appreciate all your help. I have been doing some studying and reading and do understand the FC relation to CYA. I know that with my CYA levels I have to have a higher than normal FC. I also realize that if I continue with the Tti-Chlor tabs it will be a constant struggle. I do have a Taylor 2006 test kit and have the capabilities of testing CYA, is that not good enough? Also are you suggesting going to a salt water system? If so, what amI looking at for cost ant time? With that being said, I am currently in the process of draining more out of the pool to try and get the CYA at a respectable level.
 
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If you wanted to go to a SWG with no plumbing changes you can swap your Fusion for the "Fusion Soft" which is basically the same unit with the SWG in place of the Tri-clor dispenser. We do not however recommend using the "mineral cartridge" that comes with these units as those add metals to your water that you don't need. Do you currently have Jandy automation? If so then a Jandy SWG will integrate with it. If not (or for that matter if you don't mind just adjusting the cell from the equipment pad), then there are many options for SWGs that could likely be plumbed in place of your Fusion.
 
SylKal said:
First off, THANK YOU to everyone. I appreciate all your help. I have been doing some studying and reading and do understand the FC relation to CYA. I know that with my CYA levels I have to have a higher than normal FC. I also realize that if I continue with the Tti-Chlor tabs it will be a constant struggle. I do have a Taylor 2006 test kit and have the capabilities of testing CYA, is that not good enough? Also are you suggesting going to a salt water system? If so, what amI looking at for cost ant time? With that being said, I am currently in the process of draining more out of the pool to try and get the CYA at a respectable level.
Click to expand...
Please verify which Taylor test kit you have. You stated a K-2006 but your signature shows a K-2005. The K-2005 needs the addition of the Taylor K-1515 FAS-DPD test kit to get it to the level of the K-2006 or TF-100.

The "Fusion Tri Chlor dispensor" shown in your signature is adding CYA with each additional trichlor tablet you use. That, along with the included mineral pack will cause ongoing issues. Use liquid chlorine and consider upgrading to a SWG.

Getting the CYA down to 40-50 and keeping FC in line with the FC/CYA Levels should be your goal.
 
Ok, my apologies. I have the Taylor 2005 kit. I must have fat fingered it ;) So you recommend removing the other cartridge from the Fusion no matter what. My concern with the SWG is the corrosion. We have a Fastlane Swim pro in the pool and I'm already noticing some minor staining on it. What about a mineral pool? Is this a more viable option?
 

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SylKal said:
Copper-0.20
Click to expand...
Yes remove the mineral cartridge, your copper levels are approaching Staining levels. Draining will help you with both CYA and Copper at the same time. Drain as much as you can following the guide lines.

Draining - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
SylKal said:
Ok, my apologies. I have the Taylor 2005 kit. I must have fat fingered it ;) So you recommend removing the other cartridge from the Fusion no matter what. My concern with the SWG is the corrosion. We have a Fastlane Swim pro in the pool and I'm already noticing some minor staining on it. What about a mineral pool? Is this a more viable option?
Click to expand...
Can you post test results from your kit?
 
I have results posted on my original post from yesterday. I am in the process of filling my pool after a drain from this morning. I won't have new tests to share till probably some time tomorrow.
 
Regarding converting to an SWG with your Fastlane Pro you should probably contact Endless Pools. I found this on their web site:

Can the Fastlane be used with a salt system?​

Yes, if the pool and Fastlane Swim Unit are both properly bonded and you maintain proper water chemistry. We do make different maintenance recommendations due to the corrosive effect of salt water; please ask your Design Representative at +6593361582 for complete details.
 
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