Do I need to lower my alkalinity?

Ktrunner

Active member
Jul 14, 2024
26
cypress tx
Pool Size
12000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
I am about a month in to using the Taylor kit and testing my own water. We used the Costco chlorine tablets for probably 3 or more years with other brands before that. New to liquid chlorine.

I’ve had great success with getting algae out of pool and stabilizing my water. Testing every 2 days or so

I’ve noticed my PH keeps rising to 7.8 even when. Chlorine is coming down. I think it’s due to total alkalinity staying night?

Here are todays readings
FC= 4.5
CC=0
PH=7.8
TA=120
CH = 410
CYA=140

Per pool math I should add 35 oz of muriatic acid to get to 7.2 PH

To lower TA it says to lower to 7.2 and aerate

For chlorine app says 84 oz to get to 10 FC

My question is… do I try to lower Ta before adding chlorine? It seems to be a constant addition of chlorine and MA over the last few weeks

I know the CYA is high but with temps here at 100 and no rain in Forecast I don’t want to drain 1/2 my water right now. Waiting till cooler temps in the fall
 
I am about a month in to using the Taylor kit and testing my own water. We used the Costco chlorine tablets for probably 3 or more years with other brands before that. New to liquid chlorine.

I’ve had great success with getting algae out of pool and stabilizing my water. Testing every 2 days or so

I’ve noticed my PH keeps rising to 7.8 even when. Chlorine is coming down. I think it’s due to total alkalinity staying night?

Here are todays readings
FC= 4.5
CC=0
PH=7.8
TA=120
CH = 410
CYA=140

Per pool math I should add 35 oz of muriatic acid to get to 7.2 PH

To lower TA it says to lower to 7.2 and aerate

For chlorine app says 84 oz to get to 10 FC

My question is… do I try to lower Ta before adding chlorine? It seems to be a constant addition of chlorine and MA over the last few weeks

I know the CYA is high but with temps here at 100 and no rain in Forecast I don’t want to drain 1/2 my water right now. Waiting till cooler temps in the fall
There is no need to lower TA. It does not affect chlorine at all.
 
You can do both, just give it 10 minutes between chlorine and muriatic acid additions.

You should be testing FC and pH daily. FC of 4.5 is too low for that CYA. You need to be maintaining north of 13 FC to sanitize the pool.

Always follow this...Link-->FC/CYA Levels

You really need to lower CYA. Read no drain water exchange here:
 
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You can do both, just give it 10 minutes between chlorine and muriatic acid additions.

You should be testing FC and pH daily. FC of 4.5 is too low for that CYA. You need to be maintaining north of 13 FC to sanitize the pool.

Always follow this...Link-->FC/CYA Levels

You really need to lower CYA. Read no drain water exchange here:
Can you explain the benefit to lowering CYA? Will it mainly keep my water more balanced so I don’t have to keep adding liquid chlorine or muriatic acid as often. From July 14 to today, I’ve gone thru 4 gallons of 10% liquid chlorine fro

Walmart. About $25 worth… and almost 1 gallon of Muriatic
Acid

Thinking this will end up costing more than using the pucks
 
Thinking this will end up costing more than using the pucks
The pucks are the issue. They add CYA. The only way to lower CYA is to replace water.

With a CYA of 140, we don't know what level of FC is required to sanitize the pool. It is likely north of 13FC. The risk to humans is real in an unsanitary pool. See this: FC/CYA Levels
 
the Taylor kit
Taylor makes dozens of kits, some better than others. What model do you have? (Add it to your signature.)

TA=120
CH = 410
What's the TA and CH of your fill water? I live a bit north of you, and our fill water TA is 330.

From July 14 to today, I’ve gone thru 4 gallons of 10% liquid chlorine from Walmart. About $25 worth
That isn't enough by quite a bit. You need a lot more chlorine in your pool, and it becomes unmanageable at your CYA level. Consider a no-drain water exchange.


Your primary focus should be lowering CYA and increasing FC.

I would highly recommend getting a SWCG. It's perfect for our climate and will save you much money, time, and effort.
 
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Taylor makes dozens of kits, some better than others. What model do you have? (Add it to your signature.)


What's the TA and CH of your fill water? I live a bit north of you, and our fill water TA is 330.


That isn't enough by quite a bit. You need a lot more chlorine in your pool, and it becomes unmanageable at your CYA level. Consider a no-drain water exchange.


Your primary focus should be lowering CYA and increasing FC.

I would highly recommend getting a SWCG. It's perfect for our climate and will save you much money, time, and effort.
I will look into this option !
 
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