Diamondbrite streaking- is it normal

nabril15

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Bronze Supporter
May 22, 2011
668
Miami, FL
Pool Size
16400
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
CircuPool RJ-45
Hello
My pool was resurfaced with Diamondbrite in October of last year, and I've noticed some streaks right under the tile line. In the jacuzzi bench step, I've also noticed some blotching. I asked the company that did the job, and they replied that it is normal for diamondbrite to do that; they will come take a look next week.

Is he right or simply shutting me up?

Thanksstreaks.jpgspotting (1).jpg
 
Post a complete set of test results.

Plaster is a natural surface and has imperfections. Yours does not look bad. It will not look like a perfectly painted surface.
 
Allen
What do you mean by test results? The chemical tests? This was done in a year ago, so I ask how that is relevant.

- - - Updated - - -

Post a complete set of test results.

Plaster is a natural surface and has imperfections. Yours does not look bad. It will not look like a perfectly painted surface.

Allen
What do you mean by test results? The chemical tests? This was done in a year ago, so I ask how that is relevant.
 
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What do you mean by test results? The chemical tests? This was done in a year ago, so I ask how that is relevant.

Yes, current water chemistry.

Plaster can be etched by poor water chemistry - improper PH, CH levels, CSI

Next conversation may be what chemicals you use in your pool.
 
Yes, current water chemistry.

Plaster can be etched by poor water chemistry - improper PH, CH levels, CSI

Next conversation may be what chemicals you use in your pool.

the current numbers: FC 8, CYA 40, CH 300, TA 80, ph 7.6
Chemicals used all along: yellow jug bleach from Leslies or Pinch a P, muriatic acid from a pool store, SnowJoe pellets for Calcium, and Arm & Hammer Baking soda for TA issues. Three-inch pucks unless I'm slamming but not all of the time. I relay more on the liquid chlorine.
 
the current numbers: FC 8, CYA 40, CH 300, TA 80, ph 7.6
Chemicals used all along: yellow jug bleach from Leslies or Pinch a P, muriatic acid from a pool store, SnowJoe pellets for Calcium, and Arm & Hammer Baking soda for TA issues. Three-inch pucks unless I'm slamming but not all of the time. I relay more on the liquid chlorine.

Nothing unusual there. See what your PB says.
 
I resurface (no pun) the thread with an update.
The owner of the company that resurfaced my pool finally came by, and he alluded as well to the chemistry points brought up. I assured him that my chemicals have never been out of wack. Sure, I've had to do a few slams, but other than that my CH or ph have always been in the accepted ranges.
He suggested that I do the equivalent of an acid wash - that I add 6 gallons of acid to the filled pool, and to aggressively brush the walls the next day with both a metal and nylon brush. I should maintain that low ph for a few days to see if it the acid "clears up the walls" a bit. If no benefit is seen, then to drain it and do a full acid wash.

I agree with the idea and like the fact that he gave me an option to do it WITHOUT draining the pool and selling me a service right away. Is this a good plan? Naturally, it won't hurt, but I ask for opinions. The pool is too chilly to use, so having a pool with a ph at high 6 for a few weeks won't be a bad thing.
 
Do you have a pool heater? Does your heater have a bypass to cut off water flow to it?

An acid wash will take off a thin layer of plaster and may shorten the life of your plaster a bit. Your choice if you care more about cosmetics or plaster life.
 
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Do you have a pool heater? Does your heater have a bypass to cut off water flow to it?

An acid wash will take off a thin layer of plaster and may shorten the life of your plaster a bit. Your choice if you care more about cosmetics or plaster life.

thank you Allen
No, I don't have a heater. That's a valid point. Do you think that lowering the ph by adding a lot (6 gallons - his suggestion) of acid will effectively take off that thin layer? I realize that I would be adding the acid to the pool, but it would be heavily diluted by the amount of water. No?
 
When I needed to fix surface scale my plasterers turned off my pool pump, bypassed the heater, dumped a bunch of acid in the water, setup pumps as in the pics below to circulate the water, let it run for about 4 days, and then the pool was drained and refilled with fresh water.


 

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Allen. It's hard to see the pictures without having been there. I think that I see 2 pumps that are suspended above the pool, and they circulate the water???? Why do they do that? To avoid circulating so much acid through your pump and filter?
How much acid do they usually use?
 
2 pumps in the pool, 1 pump in the spa. Pump outputs are open and they bubble and and churned the water.

Don’t know how much acid was added. It was all done by the plaster company on their nickel. My deal with my PB was they can try the acid bath and if it didn’t work they were going to replaster.

You don’t want acidic water running through your equipment. Acid is heavy and needs to be well mixed with the water. I think the pumps ensured there were no hot spots as the plaster soaked in the acidic water and kept the treatment even across the pool.

After 4 days the water was drained and pool filled with fresh house water.
 
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