CYA levels for SWG

castaneda247

New member
Aug 30, 2022
3
Los Angeles, CA
Pool Size
21000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Hello, first time posting.

I replaced my Pentair IC40 salt cell a year ago and since the start of the season this year, about 2 months now, the salt cell does not seem to be generating enough chlorine (0-1 on FAC & 1 TAC) when running at 100% none stop. Many times I've had to substitute with chlorine granules and then return the salt cell to normal schedule only to notice the chlorine levels drop again after a day or two. Salt=3500, CYA=68 and pH has been between 7.5-7.7 which is unusually low for a pool with a Salt Cell. So, I haven't had to use acid this year.

On the topic of Cyanuric Acid, I see a mix of recommendations on the internet and from manufacturers. One posting above, says that all manufactures recommend 50-70ppm, but that is not true with Pentair, they say 30-50ppm in the manual of their Intellichlor salt cells (though a Google search found a Pentair manual from back in 2006 that said 50-70). For years, I've been managing my water chemistry using the LSI app from Orenda with much success, but I only recently came to understand that their fourth pillar for proper water balance chemistry is to keep CYA at a minimal...15 for commercial (aligning with CDC recommendation) and 30-50ppm for residential, with 15ppm being an achievable number in their opinion (see this link). Another reference on CYA is from the CDC which suggests lowering CYA to 15ppm before you begin treatment in the event of a diarrhea incident where there could be a concern for contamination of Cryptosporidium parasite. See this CDC link and Orenda's publication on the topic here).

Now, my post is not to argue for a given CYA level, but instead to figure out what is a proper level for my salt pool. There are so many opinions out on the internet from reputable sources, including the manufacturers themselves. All I know is that my cell doesn't seem to be holding chlorine very long at 68 CYA, and the suggestion from TFP is to get somewhere between 70-80 range, which obviously, is well above Pentair's recommendation and I worry that by going so high, my FAC will be "trapped" as those that preach lower CYA say will lessen the effectiveness of the chlorine.

What does one do?
 
There are so many opinions out on the internet from reputable sources, including the manufacturers themselves.
Go check your pentair cell. It says right on it to fill it with acid every 3 months. I, for one, have no calcium with a vinyl pool, therefore no possible scaling to need the acid bath. But I'm supposed to fill it with acid anyway 4 times a year.

The manufacturers and the industry at large can go scratch as far as I'm concerned.

We do things differently here and the other way has made almost 400k people search us out.

You either have algae consuming the FC as quickly as it's produced, or the CYA is too loe for your current UV. Less likely is a cell issue.

#1 is to spike the FC with liquid chlorine anytime it's low. SWGs take a long time to make up a deficit.

Overnight Chlorine Loss Test to prove the water algae free. If so, run the cell overnight and test the FC gained with no UV loss. If it's producing a fair amount overnight, then raise your CYA by 10 and road test if the FC holds before adding more CYA.
 
Go check your pentair cell. It says right on it to fill it with acid every 3 months. I, for one, have no calcium with a vinyl pool, therefore no possible scaling to need the acid bath. But I'm supposed to fill it with acid anyway 4 times a year.

The manufacturers and the industry at large can go scratch as far as I'm concerned.

We do things differently here and the other way has made almost 400k people search us out.

You either have algae consuming the FC as quickly as it's produced, or the CYA is too loe for your current UV. Less likely is a cell issue.

#1 is to spike the FC with liquid chlorine anytime it's low. SWGs take a long time to make up a deficit.

Overnight Chlorine Loss Test to prove the water algae free. If so, run the cell overnight and test the FC gained with no UV loss. If it's producing a fair amount overnight, then raise your CYA by 10 and road test if the FC holds before adding more CYA.
I cleaned the salt cell about a week or so ago. It had some scale, but it's scale-free now. I ran the pump last night, and tested the water this morning, FAC less than 1 and TAC is about 1 maybe 2. Like I mentioned, I do have chlorine granules on hand to compensate for the lack of chlorine, but of course, I'd rather not be buying these and rely on producing chlorine with the salt cell.

The cell does seem to be working because I see the gas bubbles coming out of the return lines. But I will open a warranty case with Pentair to see what they have to say about it.
 
Ok the first step was an overnight loss test with the cell off. Get the FC up in target range once it's dark, mix and test a baseline for the morning test.

Overnight Chlorine Loss Test

Until we know there is no algae consuming FC as quickly as it's made, it doesn't matter how much you made.
 
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.