Converting (back) to SWG

[PoorPoolOwner]

Situation: We had problems (pool stored, bad cell, etc) the last couple of years until I recently (this season) decided I’d had enough of it and I was going to do the TFP way (thank the lord for this site!!). I have a crystal clear LC pool now.

Question(s): I know that I can save money by using the equipment I have (yes, I’ll have to buy a new cell), but what all would I need to do to make the conversion happen seamlessly? I know I’ll need salt, new cell and salt test kit (I assume I can buy the salt kit from tftestkits since I have the TF-100 pro?). What order would I need to go in, to raise my chemical levels for a SWG to not affect my crystal clear pool now?

Attached are pics of my equipment (Not sure what cell is on it now, as my wife ordered a cheap generic one). I’m sure I’ve forgot something, so take it easy on me as I’m still new. TIA

 

[sande005]

Assuming your numbers are all initially perfect for TFP (Poolmath) criteria:

1. Use the salt kit to verify your current salt level.
2. Use Poolmath to estimate the amount of salt you need to add.
3. Buy salt, and put most, but not all of it, in. Brush to dissolve, give it a day to mix.
4. Retest, and add if needed, repeating #3 (better to sneak up on it, rather than overshoot).
5. Turn on the SWCG

Afterwards, evaluate your CYA level and possible need, as it is recommended to travel a little higher with a SWCG.

All of this can happen any time, you don't even need the generator yet. No harm or change in anything chemistry wise at any time until the SWCG gets turned on. (But no benefit without the SWCG, either) . Keep using liquid Cl until the generator is working. If you go a long time before it is working (months) the salt level may slowly creep up due to the liquid Cl.
Unless you have to pump water out of the pool for some reason, no need for additional salt on hand.

The only things you may notice is some might be able to taste (very slightly) the salt (I can, my wife and daughters can't). And for me, I can float a lot better in the water than I could before.

Report the full set of current numbers, and you can get advice if there is any fine tuning that might be suggested.

 

[Jimrahbe]

PPO,

Well, we have one minor issue.. We always recommend a cell that is 2 x the volume of your pool. The means a cell that is rated for 60K (big as they come.) But there are only a couple of cells that size, and Hayward is not one of them..

You can run the Hayward T15 cell which is a 40K cell and get by, but.. This means running the cell at close to max output and running your pump for a long time. Since you have a single speed pump, that could be costly.

This is because cells are rated when running 24/7, at 100% .. This means a 40K cell would work for you most of the time, but would be hard pressed to work well in the middle of the summer.

I suspect this may have been part of the problem you were having with your original Hayward salt cell.. Once you understand how salt systems work, there are ways to get around the cell being on the small size, by supplementing with Liquid Chlorine in the middle of the summer.

No matter what you do about the cell size, if you decide to convert, then I suggest the following steps..

1. Test your current pool water for its salt level.. You will be surprised at what the level might be.
2. Add the necessary salt to get the salt level up to the recommended level for your SWCG.
3. Wait 24 hours to allow the salt to totally mix.
4. Use Liquid Chlorine to bring your FC up to your Target level for your current CYA level. FC/CYA Levels
5. Install the cell and fire it up..
6. Adjust the cell's output to maintain your FC at your target number.
7. Slowly bring your CYA up to 60 or 70 ppm.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[PoorPoolOwner]

Assuming your numbers are all initially perfect for TFP (Poolmath) criteria:

1. Use the salt kit to verify your current salt level.
2. Use Poolmath to estimate the amount of salt you need to add.
3. Buy salt, and put most, but not all of it, in. Brush to dissolve, give it a day to mix.
4. Retest, and add if needed, repeating #3 (better to sneak up on it, rather than overshoot).
5. Turn on the SWCG

Afterwards, evaluate your CYA level and possible need, as it is recommended to travel a little higher with a SWCG.

All of this can happen any time, you don't even need the generator yet. No harm or change in anything chemistry wise at any time until the SWCG gets turned on. (But no benefit without the SWCG, either) . Keep using liquid Cl until the generator is working. If you go a long time before it is working (months) the salt level may slowly creep up due to the liquid Cl.
Unless you have to pump water out of the pool for some reason, no need for additional salt on hand.

The only things you may notice is some might be able to taste (very slightly) the salt (I can, my wife and daughters can't). And for me, I can float a lot better in the water than I could before.

Report the full set of current numbers, and you can get advice if there is any fine tuning that might be suggested.

Thank you!
I’m sure I’ll have to fine tune numbers since I’ll be going to swg. I do have one more question, what would be the best cell for me to get? I’m not sure if it’s a T-10 or T15 (something I need to figure out). I’ve seen on some threads saying that the cell should be double of pool water? I have 33k so I need one for 66k, correct?

 

[PoorPoolOwner]

PPO,

Well, we have one minor issue.. We always recommend a cell that is 2 x the volume of your pool. The means a cell that is rated for 60K (big as they come.) But there are only a couple of cells that size, and Hayward is not one of them..

You can run the Hayward T15 cell which is a 40K cell and get by, but.. This means running the cell at close to max output and running your pump for a long time. Since you have a single speed pump, that could be costly.

This is because cells are rated when running 24/7, at 100% .. This means a 40K cell would work for you most of the time, but would be hard pressed to work well in the middle of the summer.

I suspect this may have been part of the problem you were having with your original Hayward salt cell.. Once you understand how salt systems work, there are ways to get around the cell being on the small size, by supplementing with Liquid Chlorine in the middle of the summer.

No matter what you do about the cell size, if you decide to convert, then I suggest the following steps..

1. Test your current pool water for its salt level.. You will be surprised at what the level might be.
2. Add the necessary salt to get the salt level up to the recommended level for your SWCG.
3. Wait 24 hours to allow the salt to totally mix.
4. Use Liquid Chlorine to bring your FC up to your Target level for your current CYA level. FC/CYA Levels
5. Install the cell and fire it up..
6. Adjust the cell's output to maintain your FC at your target number.
7. Slowly bring your CYA up to 60 or 70 ppm.

Thanks,

Jim R.

Also great info, thank you.
You’re probably correct about the cell being the problem. I basically inherited this pool when my wife and I got married a few years ago.
Would a VS pump be and help better with the biggest cell , or am I still going to be in the same boat?

 

[Jimrahbe]

Would a VS pump be and help better with the biggest cell , or am I still going to be in the same boat?

PPO,

You'd still be in the same boat, but the cost to run a VS for 24 hours, is a lot less than running a single speed pump for 24 hours..

I think if I were in your shoes, I'd dump the whole Hayward salt system and go with a 60K CircuPool system. This would allow you to run your single speed pump for the shortest time possible. Then, later, you could upgrade to a VS pump..

Unless of course you just came back from Vegas with a load of cash.. If that was the case, then I'd buy a large VS pump and the CircuPool 60K cell..

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[PoorPoolOwner]

PPO,

You'd still be in the same boat, but the cost to run a VS for 24 hours, is a lot less than running a single speed pump for 24 hours..

I think if I were in your shoes, I'd dump the whole Hayward salt system and go with a 60K CircuPool system. This would allow you to run your single speed pump for the shortest time possible. Then, later, you could upgrade to a VS pump..

Unless of course you just came back from Vegas with a load of cash.. If that was the case, then I'd buy a large VS pump and the CircuPool 60K cell..

Thanks,

Jim R.

Well, I am going on a cruise July fourth and I do have big expectations of beating the brakes off of the casino Which VS pump do you recommend? I was looking at putting a timer on it, but I think VS is the way to go.

 

[sande005]

Just checking one site (Saltwater Swimming Pool Systems & Supplies | Discount Salt Pool) the T15 compatible is $430, and the entire system for the Cicupool RJ-60 is $1,399 (replacement cells about $800). So significant startup cost to change over. The first has a 10K hr life, the second a 15K hr. With lower usage on the bigger, you may get much more than that. But it still might take a several years to hit breakeven. Others are better at the guesstimating than I am, though. Your system is labeled "Aqua Rite" and Hayward only currently lists "Aqua Rite 900", so the follow up would be to see if the newer cells (Hayward or compatible) work with the older system. Something to consider is how old the original control unit might be. That could tip the whole cost equation firmly to the Circupool side.

 

[PoorPoolOwner]

Something to consider is how old the original control unit might be.

I know the pool/system is 18 years old and that my wife has said that the “control board” was replaced 10 years ago (I might be off a year or two). It’s sounding more like I have only two options: 1. keep using LC (should I install an LC chlorinator?) or 2. replace the whole system with the 60k CircuPool?

 

[trivetman]

Is the existing cell shot? Not clear if you’ve tried to use it or not. If if works at all youve got a third option, which is to use your existing salt system and supplement with liquid chlorine when and if its not keeping up. If your cell is the T-15 and its still working well its going to give you enough chlorine for your big pool on most days. See how that goes before opening up the wallet.

A vsp is a good idea whether you use the existing salt system or get a new one.

 

[PoorPoolOwner]

Is the existing cell shot? Not clear if you’ve tried to use it or not.

Honestly, I haven’t even bothered to mess with it this season. I’m sure it needs cleaning and it probably will work since it’s only a few years old, but I’m not sure.

 

[PoorPoolOwner]

If your cell is the T-15

I’ll have to see if I can figure out what cell it is.

A vsp is a good idea whether you use the existing salt system or get a new one.

I would rather have a VSP, but I haven’t begun researching which one to get.