Building my own 12X8 Plunge Pool

Marco Josip

Well-known member
Feb 4, 2025
61
Philadelphia PA
Pool Size
3000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-15
Looking for a bit of advice from some fellow knowledgeable pool people. This will be my first pool and I am “building”/GC myself

Project is starting Monday 2/17 barring any blizzards in the NE in the next two weeks and should be done within a week or so (the shotcrete shell & inspections. The plaster/tile going later in April)

I have a shotcrete contractor lined up to excavate, lay rebar and spray gunite. I have my electrician lined up who I hire for everything at my home electrical wise to handle the equipotential bonding.

I plan on handling all tile work and plaster myself.

Finally, I have a pool company lined up to get the initial start up/pool opened in April (which I’m heavily debating doing this myself as well and saving $500)

Items I have purchased for equipment are listed below…

Overall project is costing me about $16-18K all in (quotes received from the established pool companies in the area all ranged between $50-70K which is just absurd for me to pay that for a pool this size-location is Philly PA)

My main question lies with floor drains. Are they necessary? What is the purpose? Pool contractor said some pools he does them some he doesn’t, said a pool this small it’s not necessarily needed. What would be the benefit? I think I may do a wall "drain/return" directly under the skimmer just to be safe if water level ever drops when we are on vacation.

Pool Pump- AQUASTRONG Pool Pump Amazon.com

Cartridge Filter- Doheny's Cartridge Filter Only, 50 GPM - Doheny's Pool Supplies Fast

Salt Water Cell/Circulator- CircuPool CORE-15 Salt Chlorine Generator | Discount Salt Pool
 

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ALSO....this is a very small pool. Debating whether to use 1.25 VS 1.5 PVC (I have enough 1.25 PVC left over from other projects to do this entire job with 1.25)
 
ALSO....this is a very small pool. Debating whether to use 1.25 VS 1.5 PVC (I have enough 1.25 PVC left over from other projects to do this entire job with 1.25)
Depended on the flow rates of your equipment.

Choosing the correct pipe size is very important for high-efficiency plumbing. Ideally, it is best to keep suction pipe velocity below 6 ft/sec and return pipe velocity below 8 ft/sec. This helps prevent suction side issues such as entrapment and air leaks. Also, it is a good idea to have a separate suction line from each skimmer and/or main drain pair from the pool to the pump to isolate suction lines if necessary.

The water velocity in a pipe is determined by its size and the flow rate through it. Below is a table of standard pipe sizes and the recommended flow rates for two different velocity specifications.

 
Depended on the flow rates of your equipment.

Choosing the correct pipe size is very important for high-efficiency plumbing. Ideally, it is best to keep suction pipe velocity below 6 ft/sec and return pipe velocity below 8 ft/sec. This helps prevent suction side issues such as entrapment and air leaks. Also, it is a good idea to have a separate suction line from each skimmer and/or main drain pair from the pool to the pump to isolate suction lines if necessary.

The water velocity in a pipe is determined by its size and the flow rate through it. Below is a table of standard pipe sizes and the recommended flow rates for two different velocity specifications.

I apologize but I’m not following here on the 6FT/SEC & 8FT/SEC. The run of plumbing from my skimmer and 2 main drains on the floor will be approx 16 feet to the pool equipment area and I have decided I’m going to use 1.5’ PVC

Keep in mind the guy I’m hiring indeed builds pools but usually works as the sub/shotcrete guy for the actual “pool company” in the area that are charging $50-60K for a project like this

So these conversations we’re having in here are about the extent of my discussions on all of this regarding plumbing/pump size. Essentially I’m just trying to figure it out on my own, he will show up, dig the hole, lays the rebar, sets up the plumbing per my request ( my electrician handling all bonding) and then heck spray the shotcrete/gunite once bonding is done

Pic below of the area that pool is going with the plumbing line in blue in the garden area
 

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I have posted a separate thread regarding my 12X8 plunge pool build and I appreciate everyone’s feedback thus far

Question here regarding “Final Inspection”. I reached out to my township/inspector and he has not returned my email inquiring on this. I understand that there are essentially the following…

Electrical Inspection
-Electrical-Bonding & Steel
-Electrical-Final Electrical Inspection

Building Inspection
-Final Inspection (plumbing, gate/lock, inside door alarm)

I already confirmed with the electrical inspector that there are two inspections done (bonding and steel AND final electrical)

At what point does the final inspection take place? Particularly for the building inspector?

Is this done when the shotcrete, plumbing, electrical is bonded and connected to the equipment? OR does the pool have to be full with all components running?

Only reason I ask this, I won’t be plastering/tile the pool until minimum 30 days after the shotcrete is done. Which puts me in April/Mid April.

However, in the mean time, I want to get all my plumbing trenches back filled, garden back to normal and mulch/landscape all completed while I wait throughout the 30 day period to “plaster/tile/ make the pool look pretty and completed”. Essentially I really am hoping to avoid a whole month of “limbo” of nothing getting done in the landscaping if we have to wait for the final inspection to be completed after it’s filled
 
However, in the mean time, I want to get all my plumbing trenches back filled, garden back to normal and mulch/landscape all completed while I wait
Yup. They can come just for the plumbing and electric and you can backfill once both are approved.
 
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Yup. They can come just for the plumbing and electric and you can backfill once both are approved.
Is there any code for depth on the plumbing piping? I can’t find anything via google search for pool code in PA

How deep are we trenching? 16 inches sufficient? Keep in mind that this pool will sit 20-24 inches above grade and about 3 feet below grade
 
Size of the pool or length of pipe does not determine the pipe size. Maximum flow rate by the pump and filter determine pipe size needed.

Use at least 1.5” and 2” schedule 40 PVC is better.
 
Size of the pool or length of pipe does not determine the pipe size. Maximum flow rate by the pump and filter determine pipe size needed.

Use at least 1.5” and 2” schedule 40 PVC is better.
Well hopefully I didn’t F this up lol

The pump and filter is what I have purchased. They were essentially the smallest sized options for what I was looking for the small dimensions of my pool. Both fit the gallon per minute for both pump/filter. Essentially at this size it would filter every gallon in my pool per hour approx 3000 gallons

Pump-

Filter-
 

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6100 GPH is 100 GPM and you got a filter speced at 50 GPM.

Although the head of your plumbing will prevent the pump from flowing that fast.
 
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Thanks for the response

So I guess my real questions is will this pump/filter set up work for my pool?

It’s very hard to find a smaller pump that is still 115V

The Aquastrong has a 3/4 HP but it states “above ground”
 
The pump will work. You should get a larger filter that can handle 100 GPM.
 
The pump will work. You should get a larger filter that can handle 100 GPM.
Here’s my quandary with that. I bought the filter for roughly $200 1.5 Years ago (this project was supposed to happen in 2023, family health situation we put this project on hold)

So now I have a 50 GPM Filter bought over a year ago that I can’t get rid of

If I use the current set up with the equipment above, what are the drawbacks? Would the filter just get worn down quicker?
 
So now I have a 50 GPM Filter bought over a year ago that I can’t get rid of

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If I use the current set up with the equipment above, what are the drawbacks? Would the filter just get worn down quicker?
Too high flow will tear the filter cartridge and negate filtering.
 
Is there any code for depth on the plumbing piping? I can’t find anything via google search for pool code in PA
It was mentioned once on my project that the pipes had to be 4ft deep. I didn't question it if they had to be because of code or the PBs preference.

Its certainly best practice to be below the frost line, but blowing the pipes at closing erases those concerns.
 
I’m in the process of building my own 12X8 plunge pool. Excavation, rebar and shotcrete all happening last two weeks of Feb (weather permitting)

I plan to plaster and do water line tile come April after the shotcrete has cured 30+ days.

Anyone have any feedback or experience with SiderCrete Plaster Trowel Grade?

I do concrete Darn tank restoration for a living so I’m versed in plaster/mortar/large coats and linings.

Just looking for anyone who has used that SiderCrete product with any feedback. I spoke to that company and I like the fact that their product doesn’t need to be filled immediately and brushed for weeks like all these other pool plasters out there.

 
Building a small 3,000 gallon pool 12X8 shotcrete shell.

Electrician doesn’t know the answer and the inspector doesn’t seem to either, as we are on day 7 waiting for a response

What are the requirements to pass inspection? Does the pump that plugs into a standard 115v outlet require it to be on its own dedicated circuit?

I already have a GFCI outlet in the area of the equipment pad and we just need to know if we need to run another circuit out there or not
 
You need a new electrician and a new inspector. Since this is a permanent pool, run a 220 circuit to the pump to use less power. Then the pump should only be guarded by one GFCI and it's best that it's in the breaker box, not at the outlet. Hardwire the pump back to the breaker, through the timer that you should be running it on, of course.
 

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