Booster pump capacitor

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charsand

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Aug 4, 2009
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Flower Mound/Texas
Yesterday I replaced the capacitor on my PB-40 booster pump. It worked on start up, but it appeared to emit a puff of steam or smoke. It ran all day, but it wouldn't restart today.

I'm wondering if I got a bad capacitor or could something else be causing this?

I am going to order another one today.

Thanks
 
The capacitors had the same 124-149 , the old one was marked uf, the new one was marked mfd....I don't know if that makes a difference.....

As far as wiring, I put one lead on each of the tabs. If there is a special order for that, I didn't see it in any of the examples......

The motor is about 2 years old.

Thanks for your help.
 
Capacitor arrived and I replaced the old one. Started up the pump and it worked for about half a minute, I heard a pop and some liquid ran out of the capacitor housing. I let the pump continue to run and the Polaris is functioning. I don't want to turn it off because I suspect that the booster pump won't start again.

I am at a loss as to what to do next......

Any advice? BTW the booster pump is only about 2 years old.

Thanks
 

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Pics of the original failed capacitor and the one you just tried and popped would help. Show all the markings on them.
 
charsand said:
Here's a picture of one that was recently replaced and the box it came in....
Click to expand...

That is a 120V capacitor. Is your pump 120V or 240V?

Need to see pic of the original capacitor.
 
For this pump, 120 volts is probably correct for the capacitor. The way it is wired will make it only receive 120 volts whether the motor is wired for 120 or 240.

There are 3 windings in the motor. 1 start winding and 2 run windings.

The capacitor is in series with the start winding. The start winding is parallel with 1 of the run windings.

When wired for 120 volts, all three windings are in parallel and each receive 120 volts.

When wired for 240 volts, the start winding and one run winding are in parallel and both are in series with the other run winding. In this configuration, all three windings also receive 120 volts.

 
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Post a pic of the data plate on the PB4-60 motor.

How To Replace a Pool Pump Capacitor - INYOPools.com

How To Replace a Pool Pump Capacitor
www.inyopools.com www.inyopools.com

Has the following in the Q&A

I have a Polaris PB4-60 pool vacuum pump with a AO Smith motor 7-173840-23, Type: CS, FR: N56CZ, HP: 0.75, SF: 1.50 It’s doing the hum noise thing. Can you tell me if it has both a start capacitor and a run capacitor? Do you carry the start capacitor? Thanks so much.
Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Matt S. Posted: 6/19/2019
The B625 booster pump motor only has a start capacitor which is the 124-149 MFD (BC-124).
 
JamesW said:
For this pump, 120 volts is probably correct for the capacitor. The way it is wired will make it only receive 120 volts whether the motor is wired for 120 or 240.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the lesson. Looks like that voltage is not the issue.
 
In the video at 7:07, he has a wiring diagram. I believe that the high voltage diagram is incorrect.

I think that it should be:
L1 connected to #1 and #5.
#2 connected to #3 and #6
L2 connected #4.
 
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