Best way to go automated?

May 14, 2021
13
Melbourne Beach, FL
Hi! Just bought a house with a pool (our first one!!!)

We have a basic Intermatic timer for the pool pump and a Hayward EasyTemp pool heater. I'd LOVE to be able to set different daily schedules for each (we heat it more on the weekends) and if possible be able to control it all with a computer or phone.

I did some quick research and couldn't really find what I was looking for. There are some hubs out there that cost up to $2k; it seems like overkill for what I'm looking for.

Any advice or direction on a way to do this that might be a little more cost efficient? Thank you!
 
Welcome to TFP.

Create your signature with a complete list of your equipment and describe your pool.

Post pics of your equipment pad and let us see what you are working with.

Some folks can use WiFi switches with apps to get some remote control of their pool equipment. Otherwise you are looking at a pool automation system that runs around $2K.
 
For around $400-$450, the Pentair IntelliConnect might meet your needs. It'll control your pump and heater, but will not operate valve actuators. It's not compatible with Alexa/Google Home if that's important to you.

 
Thank you! Updated sig, I'll try to attach pic here. Not concerned about Google Home integration, priority is to be able to set daily schedules and if there's a computer/app/WiFi integration that would be a nice bonus. Don't care about salt cell, reading pool temp, air temp, etc. just switching pump on and setting heat temp.

IMG_5669.jpg
 
Short of doing DIY automation with switches/relays, that's about as cheap as it gets. It will also control the SWG.

 
Consider the Pentair IntelliConnect or the Hayward Omni Hub.

Both have a water temperature sensor and will turn the Heat Pump on and off using the 2 wire Firemans switch to heat the pool.


 
Sidenote...I have no experience with heat pumps. Conventional pool heaters connect to automation using the heater's firemen's switch. I'm not sure if heat pumps connect in the same manner. @ajw22 may be able to answer questions related to heat pumps.

EDIT...Allen beat me to it...
 
The next pump you buy will be a VS pump.

If you will get a Pentair IntelliFlo pump then get the IntelliConnect.

If you will get a Hayward TriStar VS then get the Omni Hub.

If you will be staying with Hayward equipment then get the Omni Hub.

Mixing vendor equipment either does not work or is not optimum with automation.
 
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Awesome thank you guys! I kind of got grandfathered into Hayward products so it looks like the Omni Hub might be the way to go. It's wayyy more than I was expecting given my experience with my other WiFi/Z-wave switches around the house.

One last question: I'm having the sub-panel that runs all my pool equipment replaced on Wednesday. At this point I'd rather wait and save up for the Omni Hub unless there's a critical reason to install it with the new sub-panel. From the installation manual it seems like it's mostly separate?
 

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nodejs-PoolController is also another option. And it integrates with your HA system that your z-wave switches are connected to. There is a little bit of DIY involved but there have been many folks that have either integrated it with their existing commercial pool controller or run it standalone.

 
One last question: I'm having the sub-panel that runs all my pool equipment replaced on Wednesday.

Why are you replacing the electrical subapnel?

At this point I'd rather wait and save up for the Omni Hub unless there's a critical reason to install it with the new sub-panel. From the installation manual it seems like it's mostly separate?

When you install whichever automation system you decide on you will need to rewire 120V/240V electrical for all the devices the automation will control - pump, SWCG, lights.

Currently the devices wires run into the subpanel. It will need to be changed to run circuits from the subpanel to the automation box and then move the device wires to the automation box.

You are having most of the work done a second time. You are also spending money on a subpanel and the wiring when that money can go towards simpler wiring of a Hayward Prologic system with an integrated Load Center.

So unless there is a pressing reason to do the subpanel now I would stop and think it through more.
 
Wow ok. Thank you! We're scheduled for tomorrow; maybe I need to re-schedule and look into it a little bit more. The only thing though is that where I live it's impossible to get on the schedule for contractors.

The wiring in the sub panel right now is incorrect and there's a terminal that's going bad that is burning the circuit breaker to the pool heater. There's also no GFI. Basically our electrician said it was all done DIY/wrong, it's illegal, and that it is currently a fire hazard. Normally I'd think he was feeding us a line, but given our experience with some of the other electrical components of the new house, he's probably right. We've left it on to run the pump but are not currently using the heater (we will as soon as it's safe to operate again).
 
This is the internals on a Hayward Prologic automation panel ...

Fdn1SN5.jpg



It has a Load Center which replaces your subpanel on the bottom and the automation electronics on the top. It simplifies the wiring between the two areas.

With your separate electrical subpanel you will have things split between two cabinets.

You will pay to have all the devices wired into your new subpanel. Then when you put in whatever automation controller you select you will need to have it redone to reroute the power and device wiring from the supanel to the automation box. That will work fine it will just add expense to have the electrician redo some work and leave you with a more complex setup.
 
Thank you!! I think you just saved me from a very expensive decision that I would have later regretted. If you're ever in south florida I definitely owe you a beer.

This is the internals on a Hayward Prologic automation panel ...

Fdn1SN5.jpg



It has a Load Center which replaces your subpanel on the bottom and the automation electronics on the top. It simplifies the wiring between the two areas.

With your separate electrical subpanel you will have things split between two cabinets.

You will pay to have all the devices wired into your new subpanel. Then when you put in whatever automation controller you select you will need to have it redone to reroute the power and device wiring from the supanel to the automation box. That will work fine it will just add expense to have the electrician redo some work and leave you with a more complex setup.
 
Right, so if I use that then I don't necessarily even need the secondary subpanel right? While I'm rewiring everything I might as well just run it through the ProLogic board? Literally every dollar I would be spending tomorrow could be going to that control board.

Sort of. You spend on the electrical wiring once right into the Prologic Load Center. I would think the electrician cost you were planning should cover the Prologic install cost and you just have the incremental cost of the Prologic box.

Your challenge is that Hayward stuff is only sold by Hayward dealers. Find a local Hayward dealer to work with and use either their electrican or yours to install the panel.
 
I showed the Prologic system becasue I could find that pic. But the Prologic is a 20 year old system.

You really should get the latest Hayward OmniPL automation system....


And any of the Hawyard automation boxes will also replace your Swimpure control panel and integrate that.
 
You need to explore the alternatives with a Hayward dealer for the OmniHub versus the Prologic versus the OmniPL for cost and availability.

Maybe your separate subpanel and the OmniHub is best cost for you but have it all installed at the same time so it is only one electrical job.

Or for close to the cost of the separate subpanel and OmniHub you can get the Prologic or OmniPL system installed.
 
This is great, thank you! I've got some work to do research wise. I put the sub panel installation on hold; the electrician agreed and said he'd be up for the install if I supply the hardware. I might call a pool company too and see what they say.

I was wondering about the Swimpure. That's helpful to know. Right now I can't monitor my pH levels through any of my equipment; do you know if I'll need an additional sensor to that? And I saw a bunch of optional remotes for the control panels; is it WiFi enabled by default or will I need additional hardware?
 

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