Its been like that ever since I bought the house. I guess I need to look for an HP style board. That is probably easier than re-piping it. What are the safety risks exactly?
Aquatrol assistance
- Thread starter neilskinner
- Start date
Dang that's pretty bad! I may need to alert my neighbors!
I agree with JamesW, the original mainboard is an HP and was replaced with an RJ r1.47. The Firmware label on the board clearly says r1.47. The problem is that some segments in the LCD are missing which makes it read like r1.17. You may notice that a dash (-) line is missing in AL 7 when it should read AL-7. If you are savvy, you can attempt dismantling the display LCD and clean the contacts bridging the LCD and the pcb.
For the Aquatrol, Hayward recommends a vertical installation. But there's no mention of the Aquarite even though the T-cells are the same across the board.
The built-in analog timer on the Aquatrol when ON sends instructions to the micro-controller to do 2 things:
1. Energize the relay K3 which then carries the 120VAC to the pump. This circuit is unsupervised and the controller does not know whether the pump is running or not.
2. Activate the power to the cell which can be monitored through the diagnostics.
On a side note, ignore the flow switch. The RJ firmware does not support the functionality of a flow switch.
The main issue here is, the replacement cell is telling that you overshoot the salt level in your water. Follow the previous recommendations. Get a reliable salt test kit, do a partial drain and refill.
For the Aquatrol, Hayward recommends a vertical installation. But there's no mention of the Aquarite even though the T-cells are the same across the board.
The built-in analog timer on the Aquatrol when ON sends instructions to the micro-controller to do 2 things:
1. Energize the relay K3 which then carries the 120VAC to the pump. This circuit is unsupervised and the controller does not know whether the pump is running or not.
2. Activate the power to the cell which can be monitored through the diagnostics.
On a side note, ignore the flow switch. The RJ firmware does not support the functionality of a flow switch.
The main issue here is, the replacement cell is telling that you overshoot the salt level in your water. Follow the previous recommendations. Get a reliable salt test kit, do a partial drain and refill.
That sounds like a great synopsis. As long as my house doesn't blow up, I think this will be my strategy. If the board ever goes bad, I will replace with a HP, ( or possibly go to chlorine only since I'm not gonna keep it that much longer. ) I will to work down the salt to see if I can get the cell to run. I'm gonna try that before I do any kind of soldering on that J4 section. If there are any other suggestions, please let me know. And I really appreciate all of the help.
I would not run without a flow switch.
You need to be 100% sure about the salinity by getting a K-1766 salt test kit and using a good calibrated digital meter.
The salinity might be high or the cell might be a bigger cell than you think.
Can you show all labels on the new cell?
What is the cell model number?
Can you see the plates?
Here are the dimensions of the Hayward Aquarite Cell plates:
T-15 has 13 Titanium Plates, 150 x 63mm. Produces 1.47 lbs/day.
T-9 has 13 Titanium Plates, 101 x 63mm. Produces 0.98 lbs/day.
T-5 has 7 Titanium plate, 150 x 63mm. Produces 0.735 lbs/day.
T-3 has 7 Titanium Plates, 101 x 63mm. Produces 0.53 lbs/day.
You need to be 100% sure about the salinity by getting a K-1766 salt test kit and using a good calibrated digital meter.
The salinity might be high or the cell might be a bigger cell than you think.
Can you show all labels on the new cell?
What is the cell model number?
Can you see the plates?
Here are the dimensions of the Hayward Aquarite Cell plates:
T-15 has 13 Titanium Plates, 150 x 63mm. Produces 1.47 lbs/day.
T-9 has 13 Titanium Plates, 101 x 63mm. Produces 0.98 lbs/day.
T-5 has 7 Titanium plate, 150 x 63mm. Produces 0.735 lbs/day.
T-3 has 7 Titanium Plates, 101 x 63mm. Produces 0.53 lbs/day.
All joking aside, that is what can happen - maybe not quite as large, but still.
When the cell makes chlorine, it actually makes two things. Chlorine Gas and Hydrogen Gas (the gas in the Hindenburg).
If you have the cell in a vertical position just below the return jet and for some reason your pump dies, but the cell keeps running, the hydrogen is going to rise up the pipe and vent out of the return jet and dissipate.
If you have the cell in a horizontal position somewhere in your piping, and your pump dies but the cell stays on, the gas is going to collect and rise into "somewhere". Maybe you get lucky and it rises out though the return, or maybe it backs up and fills your filter. Then you go over there to try a figure out what is going on and spark something, and next thing you know your pool is in low earth orbit.
That is why if you install a cell in a horizontal pipe run, your need the added safety component of the flow sensor.