Had this inground pool for 17 years here in Central Florida. My experience with calling repair people to work on it has been lukewarm at best. If a Pool Tech can't determine a properly working flow switch, then somethings wrong. So, as an electric/electronic tech, I started looking into repairs myself & I've repaired quite a few issues myself for minimal cost.
AQUALOGIC TIME: I had the same problem which I repaired by changing the cap. Be careful because you do not want to tackle this yourself if you have no soldering experience. Anytime you lift the pad from the main board you run the risk of destroying the circuit and therefore some functionality of your $2,800 main board.
AQUALOGIC RECTIFIER: Another weak point is the control board main rectifier. In my case, after about 8yrs I found rectifier itself good but the solder connections were cold, which means there is a resistance building in the connection. After resoldering the legs, it's been working for 9yrs since.
T-CELL-15: Tired of buying new salt/chlorine generators every 5yrs so I'm trying to deceive the main controls by cutting into the cell cable & adding a pot set for about 13k to the red & blue wires returning to the plug end. There are 6 wires, red, blue, 2 black & 2 white. Each black wire powers 1/2 of the cell plates and the white wires are common. Red & blue goto a thermistor inside the cell housing which is the fail point. Once the thermistor starts to degrade, your controller will show the cell temp might be 180 degrees or higher when you know it's about 70. There is a tolerance that must be met for the controller to start the voltage to make chlorine. As Reading up on it, I found this "safety" thermistor (MOV) is there to avoid damage to main board when plates are completely calcified & closed, or an inline heater goes above the upper tolerance. My heater has good working hi-temp interlocks (already changed one out) & I habitually clean my cell yearly so I feel comfortable trying this on my failed T-cell15. I hope this trick will work as my parts from Amazon due for delivery today.
AUTO-VALVE SWITCHES: After a few years the stops in your pool valve auto switches may start to degrade. This happened to me and I bought new switches from Amazon and changed them out when I found one failed. I change both when I find one failed. You also need to watch the bottom seal. One automatic valve rusted/shorted completely because I didn't know water was intruding from underneath the controller! So there's a $240 lesson learned.
21May2024 Email address removed -- use Start Conversation.
AQUALOGIC TIME: I had the same problem which I repaired by changing the cap. Be careful because you do not want to tackle this yourself if you have no soldering experience. Anytime you lift the pad from the main board you run the risk of destroying the circuit and therefore some functionality of your $2,800 main board.
AQUALOGIC RECTIFIER: Another weak point is the control board main rectifier. In my case, after about 8yrs I found rectifier itself good but the solder connections were cold, which means there is a resistance building in the connection. After resoldering the legs, it's been working for 9yrs since.
T-CELL-15: Tired of buying new salt/chlorine generators every 5yrs so I'm trying to deceive the main controls by cutting into the cell cable & adding a pot set for about 13k to the red & blue wires returning to the plug end. There are 6 wires, red, blue, 2 black & 2 white. Each black wire powers 1/2 of the cell plates and the white wires are common. Red & blue goto a thermistor inside the cell housing which is the fail point. Once the thermistor starts to degrade, your controller will show the cell temp might be 180 degrees or higher when you know it's about 70. There is a tolerance that must be met for the controller to start the voltage to make chlorine. As Reading up on it, I found this "safety" thermistor (MOV) is there to avoid damage to main board when plates are completely calcified & closed, or an inline heater goes above the upper tolerance. My heater has good working hi-temp interlocks (already changed one out) & I habitually clean my cell yearly so I feel comfortable trying this on my failed T-cell15. I hope this trick will work as my parts from Amazon due for delivery today.
AUTO-VALVE SWITCHES: After a few years the stops in your pool valve auto switches may start to degrade. This happened to me and I bought new switches from Amazon and changed them out when I found one failed. I change both when I find one failed. You also need to watch the bottom seal. One automatic valve rusted/shorted completely because I didn't know water was intruding from underneath the controller! So there's a $240 lesson learned.
21May2024 Email address removed -- use Start Conversation.
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