I have an old RS4 module controlling my pool/spa/heater and lights. I am also thinking about switching to salt water. Would this module to the trick? Seem pretty easy to swap out.
Allen, thanks. That's what I was hoping so he'd just use the 3rd relay slot for the swg powered from the pump line side of the relay?He only is using two relays on the RS4.
The upgrade is a swap of the top control board. If you can do a lot of low voltage wiring and plugging it is pretty straightforward.
Take pics before diss assembly and label all wires before disconnecting so you know where they go in the same spots on the new board.
Jandy Aqualink RS - Further Reading
www.troublefreepool.com
SWG connects to the LOAD side of the filter/pump relay. No additional relay required.Allen, thanks. That's what I was hoping so he'd just use the 3rd relay slot for the swg powered from the pump line side of the relay?
Yep, definitely LOAD. Thanks!SWG connects to the LOAD side of the filter/pump relay. No additional relay required.
Thanks for the quick response. Here's my setup and I updated my signature. Kidney style pool with sun shelf, aprox. 15,000 gal plaster w/ spa & spillover, Jandy AquaLink RS4, Century HSQ220 pump, Jandy JXi 399BTU Nat Gas Heater, Hayward Star Clear Plus Cartridge Filter, Automatic water top-off, Aiper Seagull 600 cleaner, Built in 2000.Gary,
Welcome to TFP! Can you provide a little more info on your current pool set up? Adding a signature would help a lot. Here's how. Also, photo's of your current equipment pad would help. The RS4 doesn't have much expansion capability but we need to understand what all you are controlling. That unit you are showing looks pretty old. Let's also get Allen involved, he has a lot of background info on Zodiac/Jandy equipment @ajw22.
Chris
Thanks for the quick response everyone. Another question I have is my heater. The way it was setup when I bought the house is I have to manually turn the heater on, it's not controlled from AquaLink. I asked my pool guy to see if that could be changed and he told me previous owners changed it because they had the heater running for a week when they thought it was turned off. Either way, he tinkered around with it but could not get it working. The gray cable with a bunch of wires coming off it is running to the heater, it used to be connected to the green terminal. The black adapter was just laying there in the box. So he matched the colors and tried to reconnect the heater (Jandy JXi Natural Gas) but no luck. The last picture is how everything is wried now. Can anyone tell me how to properly wire my heater to the AquaLink board?Allen, thanks. That's what I was hoping so he'd just use the 3rd relay slot for the swg powered from the pump line side of the relay?
Thanks. I am pretty comfortable with low/high voltage wiring. Is there a reputable online store I should be purchasing the upgrade kit from? I see them range from $1,000 to $1,500. Zodiac iAquaLink 3.0 iQ30-RS Web Connection Upgrade Kit-IQ30. Looking at buying it from this store.If you're handy, shouldn't be an issue. You can keep your indoor control as well (though it will still just control 4 items and the new board 8).
Turn all the power off to be safe, all breakers.
You can actually just unplug the red, black, and green connectors and plug them into the new board if that makes it more comfortable. Be sure to hook the valve actuators to the correct socket (red connectors with 3 wires on the right of the green).
Your upgrade kit will have a second red 485 socket and plug that you can install the wiring to the antenna. Just pay close attention to the colors. You will have to completely reprogram the system as the programming is in the old chip.
This is great. Thanks for the write up.Gary,
I wired mine up with the fireman's switch. Very easy. This uses your RS to control when the heater turns on and off. You take the 2-conductor heater wire from the RS to the heater. It's described very clearly in the installation manual. Too big for me to attach but if you need it you can download it from many online suppliers. Also don't forget to set the heater on its panel to "remote control" mode. This allows it to turn on and off from a remote signal. The manual describes this as well. You put the heater control panel in configuration mode and scroll down to "remote" then select tstat". You need to also set the heater control to max temp. When you wire it like this the heater panel no longer controls temp. It just turns on and off based on the RS temp probe and set temp. So you can change temp settings on the phone app without having to go to the pool. Very cool and easy. I'm writing this from memory back when I had iAqualink on my old RS system so some of the exact selection spelling may be a little different.
Chris
Hi everyone. Looks like I will be converting my old AquaLink RS4 to IQ30RS. I am toying around with switching to salt water in the future. Should I consider getting a different upgrade kit, so that I can control it all from a single app?
I am also hearing that the cells only last 3-4 years which cost around $1k from Jandy. I am South Florida so it would be running all year.
If you get a Jandy Aquapure or TurClear SWG connected to your Aqualink it will be controlled by the iAqualink app.
Hold the MENU button down for 5 seconds, then simply follow the screen prompts. At the JXi Power Interface Board connect one end of two wires to terminals POOL and COMMON (J6). Connect the other end of these two wires to terminals 1 and 2 of the AquaLink RS Green terminal bar.Thanks for the quick response everyone. Another question I have is my heater. The way it was setup when I bought the house is I have to manually turn the heater on, it's not controlled from AquaLink. I asked my pool guy to see if that could be changed and he told me previous owners changed it because they had the heater running for a week when they thought it was turned off. Either way, he tinkered around with it but could not get it working. The gray cable with a bunch of wires coming off it is running to the heater, it used to be connected to the green terminal. The black adapter was just laying there in the box. So he matched the colors and tried to reconnect the heater (Jandy JXi Natural Gas) but no luck. The last picture is how everything is wried now. Can anyone tell me how to properly wire my heater to the AquaLink board?