Aqualink RS4 Upgrade

CableGary

Member
May 11, 2022
12
South Florida
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
I have an old RS4 module controlling my pool/spa/heater and lights. I am also thinking about switching to salt water. Would this module to the trick? Seem pretty easy to swap out.

Jandy Zodiac iAquaLink 3.0 RS Conversion Interface Kit IQ30-RS​

I found it on the internet for about $1k. Local installer wants $1,600. Wondering if its worth attempting it on my own to save $600.
 

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Gary,

Welcome to TFP! Can you provide a little more info on your current pool set up? Adding a signature would help a lot. Here's how. Also, photo's of your current equipment pad would help. The RS4 doesn't have much expansion capability but we need to understand what all you are controlling. That unit you are showing looks pretty old. Let's also get Allen involved, he has a lot of background info on Zodiac/Jandy equipment @ajw22.

Chris
 
He only is using two relays on the RS4.

The upgrade is a swap of the top control board. If you can do a lot of low voltage wiring and plugging it is pretty straightforward.

Take pics before diss assembly and label all wires before disconnecting so you know where they go in the same spots on the new board.

 
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He only is using two relays on the RS4.

The upgrade is a swap of the top control board. If you can do a lot of low voltage wiring and plugging it is pretty straightforward.

Take pics before diss assembly and label all wires before disconnecting so you know where they go in the same spots on the new board.

Allen, thanks. That's what I was hoping so he'd just use the 3rd relay slot for the swg powered from the pump line side of the relay?
 
If you're handy, shouldn't be an issue. You can keep your indoor control as well (though it will still just control 4 items and the new board 8).
Turn all the power off to be safe, all breakers.
You can actually just unplug the red, black, and green connectors and plug them into the new board if that makes it more comfortable. Be sure to hook the valve actuators to the correct socket (red connectors with 3 wires on the right of the green).
Your upgrade kit will have a second red 485 socket and plug that you can install the wiring to the antenna. Just pay close attention to the colors. You will have to completely reprogram the system as the programming is in the old chip.
 
Allen, thanks. That's what I was hoping so he'd just use the 3rd relay slot for the swg powered from the pump line side of the relay?
SWG connects to the LOAD side of the filter/pump relay. No additional relay required.
 
Hi everyone. Looks like I will be converting my old AquaLink RS4 to IQ30RS. I am toying around with switching to salt water in the future. Should I consider getting a different upgrade kit, so that I can control it all from a single app? I am also hearing that the cells only last 3-4 years which cost around $1k from Jandy. I am South Florida so it would be running all year. Thanks for your help in advance.
 

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Gary,

Welcome to TFP! Can you provide a little more info on your current pool set up? Adding a signature would help a lot. Here's how. Also, photo's of your current equipment pad would help. The RS4 doesn't have much expansion capability but we need to understand what all you are controlling. That unit you are showing looks pretty old. Let's also get Allen involved, he has a lot of background info on Zodiac/Jandy equipment @ajw22.

Chris
Thanks for the quick response. Here's my setup and I updated my signature. Kidney style pool with sun shelf, aprox. 15,000 gal plaster w/ spa & spillover, Jandy AquaLink RS4, Century HSQ220 pump, Jandy JXi 399BTU Nat Gas Heater, Hayward Star Clear Plus Cartridge Filter, Automatic water top-off, Aiper Seagull 600 cleaner, Built in 2000.
 
Allen, thanks. That's what I was hoping so he'd just use the 3rd relay slot for the swg powered from the pump line side of the relay?
Thanks for the quick response everyone. Another question I have is my heater. The way it was setup when I bought the house is I have to manually turn the heater on, it's not controlled from AquaLink. I asked my pool guy to see if that could be changed and he told me previous owners changed it because they had the heater running for a week when they thought it was turned off. Either way, he tinkered around with it but could not get it working. The gray cable with a bunch of wires coming off it is running to the heater, it used to be connected to the green terminal. The black adapter was just laying there in the box. So he matched the colors and tried to reconnect the heater (Jandy JXi Natural Gas) but no luck. The last picture is how everything is wried now. Can anyone tell me how to properly wire my heater to the AquaLink board?
 

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If you're handy, shouldn't be an issue. You can keep your indoor control as well (though it will still just control 4 items and the new board 8).
Turn all the power off to be safe, all breakers.
You can actually just unplug the red, black, and green connectors and plug them into the new board if that makes it more comfortable. Be sure to hook the valve actuators to the correct socket (red connectors with 3 wires on the right of the green).
Your upgrade kit will have a second red 485 socket and plug that you can install the wiring to the antenna. Just pay close attention to the colors. You will have to completely reprogram the system as the programming is in the old chip.
Thanks. I am pretty comfortable with low/high voltage wiring. Is there a reputable online store I should be purchasing the upgrade kit from? I see them range from $1,000 to $1,500. Zodiac iAquaLink 3.0 iQ30-RS Web Connection Upgrade Kit-IQ30. Looking at buying it from this store.
 
The heater gets 4 wires, not 6. I am not sure what that connector is for. You could always just use the fireman's 2 wire heater connection. When you get your IQ30-RS kit make sure it has the entire top board. If so, it will have the proper connections for the heater. I am not sure your existing PCB will be compatible with your new board. I thought if the old board had a single 4 wire connection (on the top left) that you would need the main board plus the PCB board, which may be what your kit will contain anyway.
 
Gary,

I wired mine up with the fireman's switch. Very easy. This uses your RS to control when the heater turns on and off. You take the 2-conductor heater wire from the RS to the heater. It's described very clearly in the installation manual. Too big for me to attach but if you need it you can download it from many online suppliers. Also don't forget to set the heater on its panel to "remote control" mode. This allows it to turn on and off from a remote signal. The manual describes this as well. You put the heater control panel in configuration mode and scroll down to "remote" then select tstat". You need to also set the heater control to max temp. When you wire it like this the heater panel no longer controls temp. It just turns on and off based on the RS temp probe and set temp. So you can change temp settings on the phone app without having to go to the pool. Very cool and easy. I'm writing this from memory back when I had iAqualink on my old RS system so some of the exact selection spelling may be a little different.

Chris
 
Gary,

I wired mine up with the fireman's switch. Very easy. This uses your RS to control when the heater turns on and off. You take the 2-conductor heater wire from the RS to the heater. It's described very clearly in the installation manual. Too big for me to attach but if you need it you can download it from many online suppliers. Also don't forget to set the heater on its panel to "remote control" mode. This allows it to turn on and off from a remote signal. The manual describes this as well. You put the heater control panel in configuration mode and scroll down to "remote" then select tstat". You need to also set the heater control to max temp. When you wire it like this the heater panel no longer controls temp. It just turns on and off based on the RS temp probe and set temp. So you can change temp settings on the phone app without having to go to the pool. Very cool and easy. I'm writing this from memory back when I had iAqualink on my old RS system so some of the exact selection spelling may be a little different.

Chris
This is great. Thanks for the write up.
 
Hi everyone. Looks like I will be converting my old AquaLink RS4 to IQ30RS. I am toying around with switching to salt water in the future. Should I consider getting a different upgrade kit, so that I can control it all from a single app?

What different upgrade kit?

If you get a Jandy Aquapure or TurClear SWG connected to your Aqualink it will be controlled by the iAqualink app.

I am also hearing that the cells only last 3-4 years which cost around $1k from Jandy. I am South Florida so it would be running all year.

Yes, cells are a consumable product that have a finite generation life. How long the cell lasts depends on the size cell you buy and how well you treat it.
 
Thanks for the quick response everyone. Another question I have is my heater. The way it was setup when I bought the house is I have to manually turn the heater on, it's not controlled from AquaLink. I asked my pool guy to see if that could be changed and he told me previous owners changed it because they had the heater running for a week when they thought it was turned off. Either way, he tinkered around with it but could not get it working. The gray cable with a bunch of wires coming off it is running to the heater, it used to be connected to the green terminal. The black adapter was just laying there in the box. So he matched the colors and tried to reconnect the heater (Jandy JXi Natural Gas) but no luck. The last picture is how everything is wried now. Can anyone tell me how to properly wire my heater to the AquaLink board?
Hold the MENU button down for 5 seconds, then simply follow the screen prompts. At the JXi Power Interface Board connect one end of two wires to terminals POOL and COMMON (J6). Connect the other end of these two wires to terminals 1 and 2 of the AquaLink RS Green terminal bar.
 
So, summing up your options, here's what they are and pluses/minuses and what I found out:
  • Jandy compatible swg will give you full control of % power and run time. But $/lb FC production was higher and you have to use an authorized installer to get any warranty. If you don't know how to wire 240v power you should not try this so the authorized dealer may be the best way.
  • 3rd party like Circupool gives you full warranty so long as you install properly. When I did mine this was the best option for me. Prices change so check to be sure this is still correct. Circupool has very favorable reviews on here.
  • I found that using a 3rd party swg provides all the automation needed. Once you dial in % Power (took a couple days it stays there for at least a year. All you need to change through the season is run time. I adjusted it about 3 times per year.
Check out this site for good comparison of many brands.

I hope this helps.

Chris
 
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