110v vs 220v

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Trick said:
lol 220v is more efficient, you're just converting your 110v back to a 220v anyways you lose efficiency in the conversion. The motor runs overall stronger. The less amp draw down the wire means the current draw is more efficient. It might be a small amount but overall 220v is always better.
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as mas985 already commented, this is simply not true. The only way you could even 'remotely' try to make your argument would be if you were going to claim that 110v would create more 'voltage drop' because of the larger sized wire being necessary...but even then you would have to prove that the installer was using undersized wire for the wire run that they were using. In my case, the wire run is about 2ft to the timer and another 4ft to the pump, AND my wire gauge would probably be oversized using a #10 wire for that distance and amperage...so even trying to make that argument would be moot.
 
Sorry I misread your schematic because a SPDT relay has only one hot input and I thought you were feeding the first timer with the booster output. If you want to do it that way, you need a DPDT relay.
 
mas985 said:
Sorry I misread your schematic because a SPDT relay has only one hot input and I thought you were feeding the first timer with the booster output. If you want to do it that way, you need a DPDT relay.
Click to expand...

From my understanding, you were originally correct with the SPDT relay. The 'hot' from connector 5 of the solar control would be hooked into the 'input' of the relay (the line that would be switched by the relay). The common line would be wired to the electromagnetic switching unit and would stay dormant. While that device stayed dormant, the input line would flow out the normal output line of the relay, which would be connected to the timer.

Connector 6 of the Solar Controller only becomes energized when the Solar Controller is engaged. That connector would be wired to the other side of the electromagnetic switching unit and when energized by the Solar Controller being engaged, would complete the circuit to the electromagnetic switching device, thus causing it to activate and 'switch' the path of connector 5 to the 'switch output' on the relay, which would would be wired directly to the High Speed input on the pump.

The SPDT relay essentially acts like an A-B switch, but with this one using an electromagnet to switch from A-B instead of someones hand. The line from connector 6 is what acts like someone's hand switching the input from A to B.... It's still only one hot input switching between 2 paths out.

This was my understanding of how it would work.
 
Ok, I think I understand. You swapped the two leads to the relay I had in the original diagram so it looked miss-wired.
 
Yeah, I was just running them kinda arbitrarily to the unit in the easiest way to see where they were going. Spreadsheets aren't the best tools for electrical wiring diagrams :) . But I'm not an electrician (though I have a fairly good understand of how it all works) so I don't have any cad type of programs to design a schematic on. I'm just a DIY'er that uses simply diagrams like that to visualize what I need to do in my head, and to refer back into in case I start second guessing myself while doing the install...
 
I had to add another SPDT relay for the SWG (which I completely forgot will need to be wired via relay also.... The only way I could figure to turn the swg on everytime water is flowing was to run the low and high speed circuits on the pump to a relay and feed to the SWG... If I wire just the power timer, then the SWG won't kick on when the Solar Controller overrides the timer and switches the high speed directly via the motor.... I edit the schematic to show that relay, as well as touched it up to make it more understandable as far as the relay input/outputs and the switching on the timers as well... Does all this look correct? I hope so because I have most of it wired in already.... I used a central junction box that feeds from the subpanel and supplies all the devices (both timers, solar controller, relay box, swg power supply, and electric box that the pump is directly wired to)....and I used the blue conduit....used #10 on all circuits (except swg, solar controller, and the wires that control the electromagnetic switching unit on the relays...those I use #12)....figured #10 is overkill for 1hp pump on 220v, but at least I won't have to rewire down the road if I need a bigger pump for added water features or an additional hot tub or anything of the sort....
 

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