Search results

Get a regular dry pressure gauge. I've changed from the wet kind as I find after winter they're shot. I don't like to mess with everything so I leave them on in the winter. The dry gauges break less often for some reason. I don't worry about vibration at all.

Air bleed screen can get hosed off.

Sorry I'm late to the party. You may have an O ring that isn't seated in the groove properly so it may not be sealed and you shouldn't need excessive force at all. Open it back up and pull pipe back enough to first see what it looks like before you touch it. If it's out of the groove remove it...

A good picture of what's left will help come to a solution.

So then I must be doing something wrong that every SWCG install for a non automation system gets a circupool branded product and works as designed. I guess they build them differently for me.

Change the orp setting to fool it it'll stop producing or unplug the cell power cord

As @mknauss said. That will Platy a game every other week.

Welcome Here is what I would say to you. Be very sure of what your CYA is because using less liquid chlorine (of the purest kind) then the slam ratio of cl/cya will be a fruitless fight.

Here's a non TFP close by whomever and became as of this season TFP. Water not pretty. In contrast the large body of water looks good but it ain't.

Guys this is TFP fantastic. Took the picture before the cover is fully removed.

Something like this and cut off the female end. https://a.co/d/119tU58

Yes, the plug and wire from Lowe's will work. Also, get a strain relief connector that will screw into the thread at the back of the motor meant for round cord. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Sigma-Electric-ProConnex-1-2-in-Cord-Grip-Connector-Conduit-Fitting/3150211

""added ~48lbs of boric acid to bring borates up to 50ppm and saw an immediate difference."" What brand did you use

Just did one 2 weeks back. The burner tray looked similar but the rest of the heater base looked almost new. Had it looked like that I would have said, where's that credit card again ;)

Are we talking real walls here then that's a different issue where I see your point.

I will attribute that to the once a week shock syndrome of the pool stores. Owners at their mercy would just empty the 1 lb bags "oh just sprinkle it around edges in the deep" was always the instructions from the tech behind the counter. Yeh, that's why I find fading in the deep at the...

Then your good to go. The red and black at the switch is just breaking the hot side. The wire in your motor are good just need to be routed through proper fittings per electrical code. Make sure to bond the motor.

Oh thanks, knew that but thought I can learn something new. Ty

Please explain, ty

You'll be using twice the amount with the weaker stuff making it twice as expensive for the same outcome.

Leave pooli alone and ride with poolmath. Poolmath has alot of calculations configured in the background so your pm says 80 and there's no reason to change that to higher.

20 mule will increase your PH and what for.

Pictures of the equipment pad are need to further properly assist you. Being the equipment is higher then the pool by how much ?

I see no reason from your poolmath that you'd need it. Your poolmath shows a low FC along with an 8 for the CYA which by TFP standards is a 10. You added 600 gram CYA which equates to 21 ounces = call it adding another 8. Those numbers need fixing more then 20 mule your asking about.

Don't test for the CC until your chlorine holds and the water clears up as it's just wasteful and doesn't change any part of the process.

Is this a 2 speed set up?

This and a few more products would be permissible to enter a pool store for but lowering the PH isn't dependent if you like that number but rather a CSI culmanative assessment of your whole chemistry.