High TA

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Paul Evert

Gold Supporter
Sep 21, 2023
60
Hardeeville SC
Pool Size
6000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Jandy Aquapure 1400
FC: 35
TA: 600
CYA: 70
TEMP: 75
PH: 8.2
CH: 575
SALT: 2800
CSI: 1.55

Today the TA jumped to + 600. I stopped adding R-0009 after 60 drops and the solution had only turned to a light orange. It did not turn to red. PH had been over 8.2 for a few weeks. I have been added 2-3 cups of 31.5% Muriatic Acid every couple of days to reduce it the current 8.2. Is this anything I need to address the TA issue?
 
mknauss said:
Your test is being effected by your high FC. Re read the test instructions.

Extended Test Kit Directions Archives

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
Click to expand...
Thanks for the archives they are a bit more detailed than the instructions that come with the TF-Pro testing kit. The test kit instructions led me to believe that solution had to turn red after adding the R-0009. After reading the extended test kit directions it seems I should stop counting the drops after it turns yellow (light orange). That will make a difference for sure. I don't think there is anything to do to lower the FC and it should take care of itself with exposure to the sun. Is my understanding correct on both of these points?
 
Test numbers from today:
FC: 20, Recorded as 20. I stopped adding R-871 at 40 drops and the solution did not go to clear
CC: 0, I'm not sure this is correct because the FC number is not correct
pH: 8.2
TA: 80
CH: 475
CYA: 60
CSI: 0.61
Salt: 2800

Given the high FC is affecting the tests and has to go down organically, should I continue to add chemicals to get the pH and CYA into the recommended or ideal ranges or just wait it out until the FC gets in range? Every couple of days I have been adding 31.45% Muriatic Acid as recommended in the pool math app to get the pH to come down but it hasn't.
 
Your pH test is invalid when the FC is above 10 ppm. Stop adding acid. Luckily the TA is high enough that you cannot crash the pH.

Leave everything be until the FC hits 10 ppm.
 
mknauss said:
Your pH test is invalid when the FC is above 10 ppm. Stop adding acid. Luckily the TA is high enough that you cannot crash the pH.

Leave everything be until the FC hits 10 ppm.
Click to expand...

mknauss said:
Your test is being effected by your high FC. Re read the test instructions.

Extended Test Kit Directions Archives

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
Click to expand...
Below are today's tests typical of what I have seen over the last few weeks. The pH is still high, the red is much darker than 8.2 using the block. Should I just continue to ignore it or attempt to lower it?

FC: 10.0
CC: 0.5
pH: 8.2+
TA: 100
CH: 300
CYA: 80
CSI: 0.51
Salt: 2600
 
Now that your FC is at 10 ppm, the pH test is valid.

Assume you have 8.2 pH. Target 7.6. Add acid, circulate for 30 minutes or so, test pH. Repeat until pH is in the 7's. Then test pH weekly and adjust as needed.
 
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