Not going to reply previous posts but I have a heat exchanger in a Hayward H250ED2 that is only a year old and showing significant signs of corrosion. I have to replace the flow control valve as it broke and am considering cleaning the internal surfaces of the tubes and wondered if anyone has attempted this. Maybe one of those copper fittings brushes on a long flexible wand? Appreciate any thoughts
Heat Exchanger Cleaning - Internally
- Thread starter MarkHoop
- Start date
Rare to actually have deposits inside a heat exchanger, especially one that new. If there is corrosion on the outside, likely the exchanger is leaking.
1 - Inlet/Outlet
2 - top of HX
3 - bottom of HX
No signs of any leakage from the HX last season. Only discovered this cause the flow control was broken. Steel pin and spring dissolved
Attachments
What are your chemistry readings, especially pH and alkalinity? Steel pin and spring (stainless) dissolved? Corrosion on the flange plate is a strong indication of a leak due to poor chemistry.
Ya, that's the same thing Hayward is saying as I got the 1st replacement at cost but now they are washing their hands of it. I had a Jandy that lasted 15 years with no issues until it leaked. 2 Hayward HX's in 4 years. Anyways, back to the current question. Would like to clean the HX internally as much as possible. The outside is easy to clean.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 64,690
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
"Acid" is kind of generic as there are many kinds. Any thoughts on what it might be. I was also wondering if a physical cleaning was possible?
- Jul 21, 2013
- 64,690
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
A diluted muriatic acid solution.
What do you think you are trying to remove in the cleaning?
You need to know what you are cleaning to use the correct cleaner.
And how do you expect to reach into the heat exchanger to physically clean it?
Muriatic would really just attack the scaling and not the oxidation. No?
I am thinking of a brush similar to one use for the ID of copper fittings prior to soldering but on the end of a long flexible handle
- Jul 21, 2013
- 64,690
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Oxidation does not effect the ability of the heat exchanger to transfer heat.
And heater boiler water chemistry causes scale to coat the heat exchanger tubes. There is no exposed surface to oxidize.
I think it is a waste of time but if it makes you feel better then go for it.
I have removed my heat exchanger and am finding that while the tubes show considerable build up on the ID what concerns me more is the back side of the panel. There are considerable signs of water damage (rust) where there should be no water. I believe that that the panel either has a locating tube brazed or welded to it or the actual copper tube is brazed to the panel but in any case the water should not bypass the tube and reach the back side of the panel which it clearly appears to be doing? This is a Hayward H250ED2C heater and the heat exchanger is less than 2 years old. Thoughts are appreciated as always.
Yes I believe there's a leak but looking at the internal copper where it's clearly evident your chemistry is off by a lot. How are you chlorinating. The heater core may have failed from inside out just by the look of it and that won't be covered usually under warranty. Are you using a tab feeder without a check valve so there's acid back feeding the heater?
I see a swcg in the signature but there's acid issue somewhere causing this maybe chlorine pucks in the skimmer baskets at times can do that too.
I see a swcg in the signature but there's acid issue somewhere causing this maybe chlorine pucks in the skimmer baskets at times can do that too.
SWG is my system of choice and has been for 20 years. Only chlorine additions are at the start of the season to get the Cl in the right range while the pool heats up. Yes, Hayward has walked away from this but the HX has seen less than 2 years service. I have seen too many H250 HX issues to believe that we all have chemistry issues but not fighting that fight anymore. I am redoing my plumbing to include a 3 way valve to permit me to valve out the heater and a check valve even though chemically this does not make sense with a SWG (another topic)...
Looks to me like a locating tube is attached to the panel and then the copper HX tube is brazed to that IMO.