Salt Cell Failing?

wjmano

Gold Supporter
May 19, 2021
62
Wildwood, FL
Hello all. What does it generally mean when your instant salinity (from my SWG) is 3000 but a manual salt drop-test is 3600?

My Hayward T-Cell-15 is just over 3 years old and I've never had any issues with deposits on the plates and my instant salinity readings are consistent with both polarities.

I have noticed recently that adding salt (based on the instant salinity reading) hasn't moved the instant salinity reading as much as I would historically expect.

Do I likely have a cell near the end of it's life? Anything else I should do to help determine what may be going on?

Thanks for the help!
 
Is the cell still producing?

The sensors on the cell are not particularly accurate, and as long as the system is working and isn't complaining about low salt, generally it's advisable just to leave it alone and monitor the salt level now and then with a drop test.
 
It's possible that the cell is going after 3 years in FL. Check to make sure the right cell is selected on the aquarite as mine has been reset after power outages. Also check the amps and voltage are within spec.
 
Is the cell still producing?

The sensors on the cell are not particularly accurate, and as long as the system is working and isn't complaining about low salt, generally it's advisable just to leave it alone and monitor the salt level now and then with a drop test.
It is producing to some extent - I'm still seeing bubbles out of the returns when its generating. Given a bit more time I may get a better sense for how well its working. The readings did recently get low enough to trigger a low salt warning, and with no significant rain fall made me wonder what was going on so performed the manual drop test.
 

To get the performance of the cell, divide the instant salinity by the actual salinity. If the ratio is less than 75%, it's time for a new cell. For example, 2,000 (instant salinity) ÷ 3,600 (measured salinity with a test kit)=56%. Check the cell and clean it if necessary. If that doesn't work, it's time for a new cell.
 
It's possible that the cell is going after 3 years in FL. Check to make sure the right cell is selected on the aquarite as mine has been reset after power outages. Also check the amps and voltage are within spec.
Thanks. I've never ventured into the "locked" settings but will review the manual to check my settings.
My amps are around 6.1 and voltage is at 25.9 (both polarity readings) - I don't know if these are within spec.
 

To get the performance of the cell, divide the instant salinity by the actual salinity. If the ratio is less than 75%, it's time for a new cell. For example, 2,000 (instant salinity) ÷ 3,600 (measured salinity with a test kit)=56%. Check the cell and clean it if necessary. If that doesn't work, it's time for a new cell.
Thanks for this. So if I'm only at an 83% ratio do I add salt to push the lower instant salinity reading to my target salt level, or do I instead rely on the manual test when it comes to determining where my salt levels should be?
 
Thanks for this. So if I'm only at an 83% ratio do I add salt to push the lower instant salinity reading to my target salt level, or do I instead rely on the manual test when it comes to determining where my salt levels should be?

NO do not add salt if the Aquarite SWG is happy generating reading 2800-3000.
 
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