Recent content by MAPR-Austin

Looks like old plaster that has been stained blue from copper. Top layer of the plaster is spalling. I'd guess somewhere in the 15k range for plaster, maybe another 5 or so to change out the waterline tile to. With the plaster being soft/spalling you are going to want them to either do a full...

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I'm going to guess acrylic panels, but I reserve the right to amend that guess if we get pictures or anything

Yep, once full you will notice it every single time you set eyes on the pool. But nobody else ever will.

Any pictures of the prep? Usually the old plaster is chipped back 4-6" around all fittings/lights/etc to help hide the elevation difference.

Not the worst I have seen, but the exposure does look uneven. I would ask them to try acid on an area with the pool full. Use a pvc pipe, put one end on the floor of the pool on one of those bigger whitish spots. Pour acid in the other end and it will sink to the floor as it is heavier than...

Looks like the plaster is ready to be redone, it has deteriorated to the point where the shell is visible. The cracks are structural and probably related to the pool shifting. Likely this caused the skimmer to pull away from the shell a bit as well causing a leak. If you replace the whole...

Plaster +20% or so

The tech misspoke for sure, he meant plaster. Common mistake in my experience. Post some pictures of your pool and the interior finish and we can advise you a bit. The compression staples coupled with epoxy injection is your best bet if there are any cracks in the shell. But if the pool is...

I've seen pools that are done with pebble on the sunshelf and/or steps, with a complimentary smoother finish on the rest of the pool. Pebble looks amazing, but it is rough and will tear up feet even just from swimming around, let alone any kind of playing. Marcite/marble dust/plaster or even...

Yep. 1) The pebble finish should be thicker than that. 2) the bond coat clearly failed in at least that spot, I don't even see any bond coat visible so it didn't stick to the old surface.

Was the old surface a white base with blue specks? In one of the pictures you posted it looks like you can see the old surface showing through.

Unless you have a lot of ground movement you should be fine if the travertine is just set on a sand bed or something like that. Shotcrete done right should be good as long as you put in rebar. I would still probably do a keyway.

I would epoxy in some rebar dowels, cut/chip a keyway on the floor and walls, and form/pour the step. That will be the easiest and guarantee the correct width and level-ness of the step. You might end up with a cold joint but having the new pour locked in with rebar and keyways will give you...

If you are keeping things square, they could form and pour the sunshelf and steps with concrete. Vibrate it correctly and it will be very strong. I would not do it using cement block. Wherever the new concrete and old meet I like to cut in a keyway a couple of inches deep. Make sure they use...