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Looks like old plaster that has been stained blue from copper. Top layer of the plaster is spalling. I'd guess somewhere in the 15k range for plaster, maybe another 5 or so to change out the waterline tile to. With the plaster being soft/spalling you are going to want them to either do a full...

https://www.absolutewaterpumps.com/amt-gorman-rupp-electric-diaphragm-pump-337e-96-3-58-gpm-electric-single-phase?matchtype=&network=g&device=c&adposition=&keyword=&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwrcKxBhBMEiwAIVF8rLVrUUr7ksWLxpgq7fYXv22_jVEQBv9WToWj8PxiNcGqMxeXihMeRxoC_aUQAvD_BwE We use these pumps...

I'm going to guess acrylic panels, but I reserve the right to amend that guess if we get pictures or anything

Yep, once full you will notice it every single time you set eyes on the pool. But nobody else ever will.

Any pictures of the prep? Usually the old plaster is chipped back 4-6" around all fittings/lights/etc to help hide the elevation difference.

Not the worst I have seen, but the exposure does look uneven. I would ask them to try acid on an area with the pool full. Use a pvc pipe, put one end on the floor of the pool on one of those bigger whitish spots. Pour acid in the other end and it will sink to the floor as it is heavier than...

Looks like the plaster is ready to be redone, it has deteriorated to the point where the shell is visible. The cracks are structural and probably related to the pool shifting. Likely this caused the skimmer to pull away from the shell a bit as well causing a leak. If you replace the whole...

Plaster +20% or so

The tech misspoke for sure, he meant plaster. Common mistake in my experience. Post some pictures of your pool and the interior finish and we can advise you a bit. The compression staples coupled with epoxy injection is your best bet if there are any cracks in the shell. But if the pool is...

I've seen pools that are done with pebble on the sunshelf and/or steps, with a complimentary smoother finish on the rest of the pool. Pebble looks amazing, but it is rough and will tear up feet even just from swimming around, let alone any kind of playing. Marcite/marble dust/plaster or even...

Yep. 1) The pebble finish should be thicker than that. 2) the bond coat clearly failed in at least that spot, I don't even see any bond coat visible so it didn't stick to the old surface.

Was the old surface a white base with blue specks? In one of the pictures you posted it looks like you can see the old surface showing through.

Unless you have a lot of ground movement you should be fine if the travertine is just set on a sand bed or something like that. Shotcrete done right should be good as long as you put in rebar. I would still probably do a keyway.

I would epoxy in some rebar dowels, cut/chip a keyway on the floor and walls, and form/pour the step. That will be the easiest and guarantee the correct width and level-ness of the step. You might end up with a cold joint but having the new pour locked in with rebar and keyways will give you...

If you are keeping things square, they could form and pour the sunshelf and steps with concrete. Vibrate it correctly and it will be very strong. I would not do it using cement block. Wherever the new concrete and old meet I like to cut in a keyway a couple of inches deep. Make sure they use...

Eagerly awaiting pictures. In my experience the shell is typically 'water tight' and the plaster/tile surface is the attempt at making it 'water proof'. If you are losing 2" a day it is not a matter of just the missing grout, it is a matter of something going on with the shell underneath...

Pictures will help a lot. Are there any visible cracks in the grout or tile? What does the equipment room look like? Are the pipes for the pool copper or PVC (Plastic)? Are the skimmers cracked inside at all? Any big cracks in the decking, or obvious areas of water leakage from outside...

It's not the worst I've seen. Some of the unevenness will go away with a couple seasons of use. If the cracks haven't gone away by now they would concern me, but they don't look like something that is a catastrophic failure, mostly aesthetic. The sunshelf material was probably either put on...

It is standard prep to chip out below the tile line and around fittings/lights. He isn't saying he will chip up the tile bed, he is saying he will chip out the plaster that sits below the tile so that the new plaster finishes flush with the tile instead of sitting proud of it. Removing the...

We use 40k hydro-blasting instead of chipping. For our standard prep we blast the entire surface and that removes about 1/4-3/8" of material. We also do 100% removal to the pool shell. What I have noticed is that the plaster gets exponentially harder to remove after that initial layer comes...

I haven't seen such a configuration, and I don't do much work on autocovers. Access from the backside instead of the top could work, but then there is nowhere to secure the cantilever pieces which hold the cover stones.

Could you put the autocover lid on the deep end of the pool and just widen that retaining wall accordingly? I think everything you are wanting is possible to the level of execution you are after, but I agree with ajw22 that having people walking on the stones that are supported with brackets...

Thoughts on how shooting everything out to the rebar and then coming back to build it the rest of the way out like they did would effect the strength of the walls?

To someone who is more familiar with the process: is it normal to shoot all the walls out to the rebar like that and then come back to continue buildout? I feel like the times I have seen it done they bring the wall out to the full thickness on the first pass or very soon after the first pass.

I'm skeptical that it is from the batching...hear me out: The second coat is usually shot on from the waterline down to a foot or two past the cove onto the floor. It would be exceedingly difficult to just shoot the top couple of feet of the wall and have such a clear delineation between...

Has the pool been closed over the off season, or ever drained down to the bottom of the blue line? I ask because if so, and the water got out of balance over the off season, it could explain both the discoloration and the roughness.

Why not put down a sheet of that bubble solar cover material over the spa before you close the autocover? Really whatever you go with I would put it under the cover that way you don't have to worry about it blowing away.

That's the mark of a good company. Stuff happens, it's construction, what really counts is how you handle making it right.

Definitely have them stop draining into the deck and drain it farther away. Keep a pump running and it should dry up. If I have an incessant weeper I will often drill a 1" hole at the lowest point I can and let the water flow out faster than it would just seeping though a crack.

You can mix the acid 50/50 with water, and use a rag to just dab a bit onto the surface. Let it sit for 15 seconds or so and wash it off with clean water. Use gloves, don't let the acid drip onto your deck or anything.