18 x 33 x 56" Semi-In Ground NJ

Now when you get up into the higher power range do you need to have more than one skimmer to supply the pump or is the one good?
I would want 2 skimmers on your large pool either way.

If you stuck with one skimmer and went with a large pump you'd want 2 inch plumbing.

And as far as reputable online venders for these components anywhere that you guys recommend?
The link above is reputable. Polytech pools, inyopools and recsupply are 2 for the flagship brands. Dohneys and Leslie's have a bunch of the other brands along with some flagships.
 
@Mdragger88 you say to steer away from the SWG, what about the Hayward Aquarite Pro 40k? Whole kit is $1900 for the control panel, cell, and the in-line anode. Again, not that we are pinching pennies or have an unlimited budget but I am very much a fan of buy once cry once 😂😂😂.

With the pump and chlorinator on the same 230v circuit I would think a 20 amp 2-polebreaker would suffice?

 
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@Mdragger88 you say to steer away from the SWG, what about the Hayward Aquarite Pro 40k? Whole kit is $1900 for the control panel, cell, and the in-line anode. Again, not that we are pinching pennies or have an unlimited budget but I am very much a fan of buy once cry once 😂😂😂

Hayward aquarite 40k is a good choice. You can skip an inline anode but I think you may be referring to the flow switch which is a necessary component.
Be sure to check the warranty coverage for diy/ non hayward installers- there was a time they would ding you a little (give less warranty) not sure the current situation for that particular equipment. Different lines have different rules. Not sure about the pro but the regular aquarite should have 3yrs.
 
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what about the Hayward Aquarite Pro 40k?
If you're going through the pool builder and that's what they have, it won't do you wrong. It's good stuff.

If DIY, or the builder will install your own equipment, get the Circupool RJ-30 for almost $600 less, then upgrade it to the RJ45 for only $10 more.

With the pump and chlorinator on the same 230v circuit I would think a 20 amp 2-polebreaker would suffice?

Yes, the SWG draws little amps.


forgot to mention..... You either need to run 24/7 with the SWG so it always has flow, or you need to install a timer if you're only going to run the pump as needed per day. The flow switch is the failsafe, not the primary. If the SWG is on without flow, it produces gas and explosions are possible. It's small and localized, but still. It'll wreck the general area.
 
If you're going through the pool builder and that's what they have, it won't do you wrong. It's good stuff.

If DIY, or the builder will install your own equipment, get the Circupool RJ-30 for almost $600 less, then upgrade it to the RJ45 for only $10 more.
Nope not from the builder we are using was just looking on pool supply unlimited and that was just another one they had with good reviews. If I can get something that's cheaper and just as reliable I'm all for it!
forgot to mention..... You either need to run 24/7 with the SWG so it always has flow, or you need to install a timer if you're only going to run the pump as needed per day. The flow switch is the failsafe, not the primary. If the SWG is on without flow, it produces gas and explosions are possible. It's small and localized, but still. It'll wreck the general area.
Yes I already have it in the drawing that there will be a timer, from what I've read elsewhere on here for this size pool I'm at a 10hr minimum run time (correct me if I'm wrong) so I will probably set it to run during off-peak hours. Explosions not good! never would have thought to ask about that
 
for this size pool I'm at a 10hr minimum run time
Are you describing turnovers ? They're a useless stat. You have a row of trees between you and your neighbor. The wind always blows your way. You needs tons of filter time and the neighbor needs next to none. Even your own pool swings like mad. You'll need tons of filtering in the spring and late fall and next to none in July. You adjust your runtime as you go.

For the swg, the runtime needed to produce enough FC also swings throughout the season. The daily loss is like a bell curve with more in the middle and less at the ends. You might need an hour of SWG production in the early/late season and half a day mid season. You need to run a bit higher to account for the swing of up to 4ppm a day in the peak season.

Screenshot_20240530_071853_Chrome (1).jpg


*When* you produce your FC is just as important as *how much*. For example, overnight runtime to save on peak electricity rates. Its totally fine, but understand that the pool will swing like a bleach pool. You'll spike the FC overnight with no loss/UV, it will start the daytime high, and drift down before producing again.

If I can get something that's cheaper and just as reliable I'm all for it!
For those without automation, circupool is hard to beat. They have the best warranty by a mile. It'll sting that it's prorated if you ever need it, but *something* on years 4 to 7(?) is way better than *nothing* from the rest of them. For DIY installs the warranty may be 90 days for some of the others.

Circupool also claims to produce the most, and for a longer time. It's pretty well documented here that they boast a little too much, but at worst, they are as good as anybody, and may be slightly better. For less cost.
Explosions not good! never would have thought to ask about that
It produces gas. With no flow you effectively have a gas leak inside the plumbing. . YMMV after that. :ROFLMAO:

The manufacturers all rely on the flow switch, but it's a 19 cent moving part. We use the timer to control the on/off, and then the flow switch is a failsafe because timers get out of synch quickly if you don't check them often.
 
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Are you describing turnovers ? They're a useless stat. You have a row of trees between you and your neighbor. The wind always blows your way. You needs tons of filter time and the neighbor needs next to none. Even your own pool swings like mad. You'll need tons of filtering in the spring and late fall and next to none in July. You adjust your runtime as you go.

For the swg, the runtime needed to produce enough FC swings throughout the season. The daily loss is like a bell curve with more in the middle and less at the ends. You might need an hour of SWG production in the early/late season and half a day mid season. You need to run a bit higher to account for the swing of up to 4ppm a day in the peak season.
Oh absolutely thats how my luck usually works it could be raining 🐱and id get hit in the head with, well, you know the rest 😂😂😂😂😂. I think the turnover for that pump you mentioned was 8hrs for 20k, but I just threw out 10 thinking I could run over night. With your graph you're saying that depending on environmental factors during the day I may have to run at different times of the day and pump run time will vary in order to keep the 3500ppm salt level? (that might not be the right number but i know i read the levels on here in another thread). So for an example I may make enough FC running overnight for 10 hours but may have to run for an extra 2-4 hours during the day to account for the loss due to heat/sun. But if it was a mild week i may only have to run half as much time?
For those without automation, circupool is hard to beat. They have the best warranty by a mile. It'll sting that it's prorated if you ever need it, but *something* on years 4 to 7(?) is way better than *nothing* from the rest of them. For DIY installs the warranty may be 90 days for some of the others.

Circupool also claims to produce the most, and for a longer time. It's pretty well documented here that they boast a little too much, but at worst, they are as good as anybody, and may be slightly better. For less cost.

It produces gas. With no flow you effectively have a gas leak inside the plumbing. . YMMV after that. :ROFLMAO:

The manufacturers all rely on the flow switch, but it's a 19 cent moving part. We use the timer to control the on/off, and then the flow switch is a failsafe because timers get out of synch quickly if you don't check them often.
Looks like the RJ 60 is on sale currently lol. As far as different warranty for DIY install do you think the "DIY Install" would change if my buddy that's helping is a licensed electrician in NJ?
As far as the equipment I do plan to gather what info I can and post the "package" I make on here 👍
 
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The circupool models don’t have any stipulations for who installs them. The warranty is the warranty.
Pentair, hayward & jandy have the stipulations according to which line you purchase etc.
if you can do the vsp you can run basically around the clock at a low rpm and also run the swcg at the same time at a lowish % to always be filtering and skimming and always be making fc. This will be a very low energy usage & efficient option!
 
keep the 3500ppm salt level?
The salt stays the same except for slowly being diluted by rain / overflow.

With your graph you're saying that depending on environmental factors during the day I may have to run at different times of the day
The graph was to show the approximate daily FC loss. It starts real low, needing very little runtime.... like an hour. Then it builds rather quickly needing many hours a day before falling back to little.

Rough math with a 45k SWG on a 20k pool is about 11 hours runtime per day during the summer. It doesn't matter when. If you run 24 hours at 45% it's the same as 11 hours at 100% (roughly). But if you only run overnight, your pool will swing more during the day with no FC production as it's burning off. With daytime production, you're adding and losing and it doesn't swing as much.

Again. Either is fine, you just need to plan ahead. (We'll burn that bridge when we get to it. :) )
But if it was a mild week i may only have to run half as much time?
You'll use your frequent testing as a guide. You want to foul up on the high side of target range. It's safe up to slam and look how wide the wiggle room is above, and how little wiggle room there is below target range.

swcg_chart.jpg

If the FC is climbing too much, you'll either shut it off for a day or 3 and let the FC drift down, or you'll lower the runtime for a slower drop. The daily testing will let you know when it's time to turn it back on/up to try to match the daily FC loss.
Looks like the RJ 60 is on sale currently
They are always on sale. You buy the smaller one and upgrade for $10. If the 16k estimate is about right above, a RJ45 is perfect for you. (Select the RJ30 and upgrade it)
As far as the equipment I do plan to gather what info I can and post the "package" I make on here 👍
Oh yeah. We're 2 pages deep and still only thinking about it all. You'll need to refresh our memories at times. TIA for not making us scroll back some pages all the time.
 
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Oh yeah. We're 2 pages deep and still only thinking about it all. You'll need to refresh our memories at times. TIA for not making us scroll back some pages all the time.
Very well! RJ-45 it is, the calculators I checked put it anywhere from 16.5k-19k gallons since this is a 56" pool, granted I know it isn't going to be filled to the top but even if it was that size is still good.
Soon to be 3 😂, just need to gather my info an make a decision in the next few weeks as Niagra pool did confirm the deposit lets them order the pool and lock in an install date. Will be back with my list of equipment and overall supply list for the whole install 🤙🤙🤙 other than the pool itself of course lol
 
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We’re super excited for ya’ll!!
 
Figured I would add at least the filtration/sanitation systems on here that I have compiled, I am still reading up on here with the Cartridge vs Sand filters so that decision is yet to be made for sure. Everyone in our are has sand I'm not sure if that's a climate thing or just what every pool place offers here.

Pool equipment:
  • Niagara pool
  • Package pool price = $17,595
  • Pool, liner, pump/sand filter, skimmer, 1 return port, cover, and maintenance/cleaning kit
  • Pool only price = $14,995
  • Pool, liner, skimmer only
  • Pool only price with wedding cake steps, winter cover, & solar cover
    • $15,575
    • $16,606 after tax (1/2 of this is due when we sign, next week hopefully!)
  • $2,600 difference for pool package and pool only prices
  • SWG = $1,450 & $600 for install
  • Cost for pump, filter, SWG no install approximately $4,050

  • Package 1 Total estimated with tax/shipping = $3,156
    • 2 vendors
    • Salt Water Generator
    • Pump, sand filter, & pre-filter
    • CaliMar® Variable Speed Pool Pump | 3HP | CMARVSP3.0
    • WITH 3 year extended warranty
    • Hayward Pro Series Sand Filter 2" Top Mount Valve 24" Tank | W3S244T2
    • Waterco MultiCyclone 50 Pre-Filter 2-Inch | 200375 200370
    • $1,744 with tax and shipping

  • Package 2 Total cost with tax/shipping $3,300.35
    • 2 vendors
    • www.discountsaltpool.com
      • RJ-45 SCG *upgraded* $1,319
      • TJ-16 Typhoon Pre-Filter $227
      • Waterco 24” sand side mount plumbing $899
      • Total with tax/free shipping $2,597.81
    • www.poolsupplyunlimited.com
      • CaliMar® Variable Speed Pool Pump | 3HP | CMARVSP3.0 w/3yr extended warranty
      • $702.54 total with tax/shipping est.

  • Package 3 Total estimated cost with tax/ FREE shipping = $4,078.94
    • 1 vendor
    • **Package made in checkout, may want to call and see if I can get it discounted**
    • www.discountsaltpool.com
      • Circupool RJ-45 PLUS SCG *upgraded* $1,319
      • Circupool Smartflo VSPP-3.0THP $1,195
      • Waterco Fulflo Tri-Cartriage Filter-500SF $1,098
      • Circupool TJ-16 Typhoon Centrifugal Pre-Filer $227

  • Package 4 Total cost with tax/ free shipping = $3,335.19
  • 1 Vendor
    • Complete Cartridge/Salt/Pump Package
    • www.discountsaltpool.com
    • CircuPool Smartflo 3.0 THP w/unions
    • CircuPool RJ-45 SCG
    • CJ2750 Cartridge Filter
    • CircuPool TJ-16 Typhoon Pre-Filter
 
Filtering comes down to which beast you'd prefer. With sand you backwash to do little cleans and have to occasionally top off the sand that leaks during backwash. Once a season it needs a big cleaning where you shove a hose down the filter and massage all the filtered crud out the overflowing lid. With carts they go until they need the big cleaning, where you pop the lid and hose them down.

The forum as a whole is leaning towards big carts. I'm diehard big cart, but respect the other two's ability to be just as effective.


The CJ2750 is a medium cartridge (270 square ft) while the 24 inch sand filter (300 lns of sand) is large. Ideally you would buy large of either because your trees will be shedding crud all season, and hold onto your hat in the spring. I took down 12 oaks for my first pool, some outside the immediate footprint. I spent the next 8.5 years watching crud blow from 100 ft away perfectly sideways before dropping like a brick in the pool. :ROFLMAO: That's where my 500 sq ft carts shined.

If my Sta-Rte filter blew up tomorrow, I'd get the waterway 425.

I'd skip the pre filter and put the money into larger carts. If the upgrade costs more than that, it's still peanuts divided over 20 years (?).
 
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The forum as a whole is leaning towards big carts. I'm diehard big cart, but respect the other two's ability to be just as effective.

If my Sta-Rte filter blew up tomorrow, I'd get the waterway 425.

I'd skip the pre filter and put the money into larger carts. If the upgrade costs more than that, it's still peanuts divided over 20 years (?).
I am seeing that the more I read on here! I really have no input because Ive never owned a pool so putting trust in people on here for guidance on the filtration! I agree with the upgrade, even going from the 275 to the 500 sqft isn't too bad at $250 which is basically the cost of the pre filter which can always be added later down the line without much of a hassle. My main concern and reason for the pre filter was larger debris to cut down on the cartridge cleanings but if I went with the 500 which is super overkill then I don't think it would be much of an issue anyway. The pump is really the big price factor to me, do I spend the extra $600 almost for the Circupool with a 5 year limited and energy rebates or do I stick with the CaliMar with 1 year limited and 3 year extended/replacement warranty. The other thing is if i get the pump from discountsaltpools then everything comes from them and parts/filters/warrently may be easier to deal with.
 
My main concern and reason for the pre filter was larger debris to cut down on the cartridge cleanings
500s, or even the 425s go all year. I clean mine once the spring crud is done, but just so I sleep better, they don't actually need it. And then again at closing.

Hair nets in the skimmers stop tons of gunk, for 10 cents each, VS the $250 pre filter.

But with large carts, I don't even want to mess with the hairnets because, why ? I'll need to clean at the end of the season either way, and I won't sleep right if I skip the spring cleaning. Lol.
do I spend the extra $600 almost for the Circupool with a 5 year limited and energy rebates or do I stick with the CaliMar with 1 year limited and 3 year extended/replacement warranty.
Its always a calculated risk, but I'd never spend double for a warranty on a clone of my preferred choice. I'd gamble i didn't need 2 of them, and even if i did, I'd still break even.

*disclaimer. Somebody out there will always be Bad Luck Brian and get multiple duds. Statistically, it won't be you. 😁

I stopped counting at $25k for the warranties I didn't buy, and have to be $40k+ by now. If something new blows up, I'll shrug and laugh.
 
Howdy neighbor! Depending where in West Deptford you are I might be able to throw a stone and have it land in your new pool. I'm right across Mantua Creek in East Greenwich. Looks like you're already in good hands with respect to equipment. I'll add my .02:

- We went with an oversize cartridge filter, but my neighbor has sand and doesn't seem to have any problems either. With our large cartridge filter I get by with only cleaning it once at the end of every season when I'm winterizing. Outside of that I never have to deal with it. It's very convenient. Last year I had a dying pine tree shedding needles all season and even with all of that gunk getting in there I still never had pressure building up causing me to have to clean. (When to clean filter) My vote would be large cartridge with no pre-filter.

I know it was mentioned previously but I'll echo that you should try to get a 2nd skimmer. It's convenient, and also if anything bad ever happens you have a lot more options if you need to shut one of them down.

For your side-work quote including excavation, Reach out to Alessio at MVA Contracting (8568733676) and let him know Dylan sent you. He did the excavation for my in ground pool, did a fantastic job, and was very reasonable pricing. It's been a few years, so he might be more interested in concrete work at this point, but it's probably worth a call anyway just to see.

You can take a look at my build thread to get an idea of the route we went and how things went for me. I did a lot of the same work your talking about doing (electric, plumbing, etc...) so you can get a sense for what it entails. I'll be keeping an eye out here now that I know someone so close is a TFP'er who is building a new pool.
 
Getting everything at 1 place is certainly simpler. If you can afford it go for it.
The calimar & circupool vsp pumps are cousins - w/circupool you are paying for the warranty. Calimar/Circupool/BD/Blue Torrent Pump - Further Reading
Getting a rebate is nice be sure to figure it in the overall cost(check the dates as some places are getting rid of rebates/they are expiring)
Definitely skip the prefilter. That $ is better spent elsewhere.
You’ll have to determine your risk tolerance on the warranty (dealing with dsp/circupool vs various manufacturers & third parties)
 
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Howdy neighbor! Depending where in West Deptford you are I might be able to throw a stone and have it land in your new pool. I'm right across Mantua Creek in East Greenwich. Looks like you're already in good hands with respect to equipment. I'll add my .02:
I am a little north of you on the West Deptford/Westville boarder, close enough lol! I will definitely reach out to MVA for pricing. I did reach out to another company for excavating and they were much cheaper than what Niagra pool was for the excavation excluding the backfill. The more I read on here the more I was leaning towards cartridge as well! I think the benefit of not wasting pool water to backflush is a big plus along with not having to worry about freakin sand getting everywhere.
 
I am a little north of you on the West Deptford/Westville boarder, close enough lol! I will definitely reach out to MVA for pricing. I did reach out to another company for excavating and they were much cheaper than what Niagra pool was for the excavation excluding the backfill. The more I read on here the more I was leaning towards cartridge as well! I think the benefit of not wasting pool water to backflush is a big plus along with not having to worry about freakin sand getting everywhere.
An appropriately oversized cart would generally need cleaning once per season (barring some algae issue)
My decently sized sand filter needs backwashing maybe 5 times per season? Sometimes it’s simply because I need to drain water so I backwash during the process so its not a total waste.
The sand is contained in the filter - it shouldn’t escape unless there’s a problem.
I live on a large property so I have no issues dealing with the wasted water.

Speaking of draining- you want to plumb a way to drain water if you get a cart as they don’t include an mpv like a sand filter. One can be added & some just have a spigot.
 

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