That's it!! I'm done with swimming pools....

[ugarugby14]

this year my swimming pool is trying to kill me. The last few years it has all been so easy. I've fixed so many things (a list to follow) and now I'm kind of stumped or at least need guidance in what to do first.

We had someone open the pool for us, it was clearing up then it stopped. Found out I needed a new salt cell. I decided to try a generic one to save a couple hundred dollars after researching the company. ( i know, maybe this was my down fall). This was still early May so I just left the pool alone until arrived. I installed it, slammed the pool, started SWG up. The pool became not green anymore but really cloudy still, like white cloudy. But then an error light for the temp sensor came on at my control unit. Ordered and fixed that. while waiting around was using traditional methods of chlorinating the pool. Again fair success but still just like hazy water not clear. My chemistry numbers were fine. Still when the SWG is on it blows white cloudy water into my pool. I scoured the forums. I have not used any weird cleaning stuff, I think it's either the cell (I've contacted the company to get a replacement just in case) or I have too much air from leaks in my system. Oh and I had to replace my robot vacuum this year too.

So ok I haven't been using my SWG while the company and I email back and forth (it's been on for about 15 min in the last 2 weeks). But after slamming my pool for the 3rd time in the last few weeks it still is white cloudy. I can see the drain at the bottom of the deep end but not well. There's fine stuff on the bottom of the pool and stairs but it's not like algae I've encountered before. It definitely is part sand. Here are my most recent numbers as I slammed the pool Friday night. It passed the overnight drop test Saturday morning (FC was 20 at night and 20 in AM).
FC: 14
CC: 14.5
pH: 7.2
TA: 81
CH: 99 (not this matters in my vinyl pool)
CYA: 60
salt: 3100

So after all of this and reading the forums. I think I need to change the sand in my sand filter. I changed it last I think in 2014. I can't think of any other reason it would still be cloudy w/ the SWG off.

Questions:
1) does this seem like the next step to take, replacing the sand? Should I replace all the laterals also just in case?
2) any thoughts on the SWG cell? do they all blow white stuff like that at first? I don't think it's the flakey white from scaling I read about. It looks like a cloud of chalk when it's on.
3) I do have a leak from the pump or filter or pipes somewhere near the pump because the concrete pad is always wet and small bubbles come out of the returns. How vital is this to fix? Any way to determine where the leak is? My husband keeps saying not to fix it because it's not like we are losing water noticeably. Obviously we are spending too much money on this pool this year already I don't want to have to fix it.

I attached a pic of the wet concrete area. I tried to post a video of the cloudy water but it didn't work so here's a link to the video

New video by Reagan Jamell

photos.app.goo.gl

Thank you for any thoughts and suggestions. If I did not have children I would be filling this pool in with concrete ASAP

 

[Texas Splash]

I would ask the following question before you go to much further:
- Was the SWG OFF during the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test?
- SIcne it's not in your signature, which test kit are you using?
- White stuff form teh cell is generally sign of calcium being released. That or you are actually seeing the chlorine gas being generated.
- DId you actually perform a SLAM Process? By that I mean everything in that article by using liquid chlorine (SWG off), every inch of the pool inspected/cleaned, and most importantly, passing all 3 SLAM criteria?
- As for the sand, it shouldn't just go bad unless you added a pool store product like floc or clarifier. Have you done a sand deep clean recently? That may not be a bad idea.

 

[ugarugby14]

-yes the SWG was turned off during all overnight tests and also turned off all the time for the last 2 weeks.
-the TF 100 mostly. I use the TF 100 for the FC/CC, pH, CYA. I took the water to Leslie also and reported their TA, CH and salt level
- SLAM process. I removed my ladder to ensure I don't have algae on it, and left it out. I brush pool and the stairs morning and night. I inspected the light but did not try to remove. I scrub the drain and skimmer. No idea how to scrub under main drain cover. backwash frequently. I passed 2/3 criteria (did not drop at all, CC are 0 actually), but the 3rd one is having clear water which obviously I can't pass.
- IDK what floc or clarifier is so I don't think I added those. SO you don't think the sand wears down eventually? That is good to hear. I guess I better google a sand deep clean.

If I did have algae still in the pool wouldn't that show in my FC numbers? Friday night 20, sat AM 20, could not test saturday PM, sunday am 17, just now 17. It has been cloudy all weekend but not pitch black and it's not dropping much. CC 0 in all these tests.

On a lighter note: does anyone have suggestions on how not to get drops of bleach on my clothes and sandals? Whenever I pour it in a ruin more shorts or shirts by the splatter, even when going slow.

 

[Texas Splash]

Below is the article on how to deep clean your sand. If you are not losing any FC overnight with the SWG off, then I would be suspicious of the filter and do that deep clean. You'll know when you open it if the sand seems overly hard, compacted, or covered with stuff that isn't dislodging during a backwash.

As for the clothes .... good luck. I have pool clothes with splatters just for that purpose. Ha.

Deep Cleaning a Sand Filter

This post will walk you through the anatomy of a sand filter, and then provide a video at the end for how to deep clean your sand filter. The filter used in the photos and videos is a Hayward S180T top mount sand filter. The images are of a similar filter. Obviously not all filters are...

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[1poolman1]

-yes the SWG was turned off during all overnight tests and also turned off all the time for the last 2 weeks.
-the TF 100 mostly. I use the TF 100 for the FC/CC, pH, CYA. I took the water to Leslie also and reported their TA, CH and salt level
- SLAM process. I removed my ladder to ensure I don't have algae on it, and left it out. I brush pool and the stairs morning and night. I inspected the light but did not try to remove. I scrub the drain and skimmer. No idea how to scrub under main drain cover. backwash frequently. I passed 2/3 criteria (did not drop at all, CC are 0 actually), but the 3rd one is having clear water which obviously I can't pass.
- IDK what floc or clarifier is so I don't think I added those. SO you don't think the sand wears down eventually? That is good to hear. I guess I better google a sand deep clean.

If I did have algae still in the pool wouldn't that show in my FC numbers? Friday night 20, sat AM 20, could not test saturday PM, sunday am 17, just now 17. It has been cloudy all weekend but not pitch black and it's not dropping much. CC 0 in all these tests.

On a lighter note: does anyone have suggestions on how not to get drops of bleach on my clothes and sandals? Whenever I pour it in a ruin more shorts or shirts by the splatter, even when going slow.

You should never pour liquid from farther than about a foot off of the water. Yeah, its a pain in the back, but it won't splash as much. When the water splashes from the chlorine hitting hit, some of the chlorine "gasses off," literally goes into the air and dissipates as a gas, plus it will destroy your clothes.
When you have a green pool and it turns white after a SLAM, you now have dead, bleached algae floating around in the water that the filter needs to catch.
Sand filter's have one big limitation, and that is how they are unable to catch very fine material, like algae in large amounts. They work great for most pool debris, but not a green/white pool.
Get a bit of cellulose fiber or DE, add a handful to the skimmer to aid in removing the algae. It will be gone each time you backwash, which will be more frequently as the filter-aid gets clogged. Just keep adding it until the water clears. Also, if your filter is over 5 years old, it likely needs at least 50# of sand to be added back to it. You lose a little to each backwash and it adds up over time.

 

[ugarugby14]

Ok! Both of these responses are very helpful. Thank you! I will get to deep cleaning the filter ASAP and add sand as needed. Maybe then I'll only have to lift 1- 50# bag of sand . I hope the unions come off easier than last time I did this. My dad is not here to help me this time.

Any other equipment you think I should buy before starting this process? I don't have the luxury of just running off to the store mid process. Packing up the kids takes way too much time. I rather buy and return what I don't need.

Seems like:
1 bag of sand maybe
O ring potentially
Silicone grease

Thanks again!

 

[1poolman1]

Ok! Both of these responses are very helpful. Thank you! I will get to deep cleaning the filter ASAP and add sand as needed. Maybe then I'll only have to lift 1- 50# bag of sand . I hope the unions come off easier than last time I did this. My dad is not here to help me this time.

Any other equipment you think I should buy before starting this process? I don't have the luxury of just running off to the store mid process. Packing up the kids takes way too much time. I rather buy and return what I don't need.

Seems like:
1 bag of sand maybe
O ring potentially
Silicone grease

Thanks again!

What is the horsepower of your pool pump? A 1081 motor is just a square flange pool-pump motor (also some well pumps). What brand pump? You have a relatively small filter. It has a rated maximum flow rate of 44GPM. A pump too large can actually cause channeling, the water flowing so fast that it will go down the sides of the tank between the sand and wall, bypass the sand bed, and not be filtered much at all.
That, too can cause the issues you are experiencing.

 

[ugarugby14]

What is the horsepower of your pool pump? A 1081 motor is just a square flange pool-pump motor (also some well pumps). What brand pump? You have a relatively small filter. It has a rated maximum flow rate of 44GPM. A pump too large can actually cause channeling, the water flowing so fast that it will go down the sides of the tank between the sand and wall, bypass the sand bed, and not be filtered much at all.
That, too can cause the issues you are experiencing.

It's benn running nicely for at least 12 years. I haven't changed the pump or the filter. Do you think it would become "overpowered" all of a sudden or over time it causes the channeling? I'll have to look at the motor when I'm at home but I'm not sure the stickers are still readable. I'll reply back soon.
Thanks!

 

[1poolman1]

It's benn running nicely for at least 12 years. I haven't changed the pump or the filter. Do you think it would become "overpowered" all of a sudden or over time it causes the channeling? I'll have to look at the motor when I'm at home but I'm not sure the stickers are still readable. I'll reply back soon.
Thanks!

Twelve years is a very long time for pool equipment. Everything breaks/wears out/goes bad. In that twelve years you have had the system it has probably moved at least 70,000,000 gallons of water with little to no "complaint" if used as most people do. Now . . .
If the filter has had no maintenance for that long, it is likely very low on sand. That will result in the issues you are having. Most sand filters need at least 50# added after the first five years and should be checked at that interval afterward.

 

[Wntrequinx]

As for the clothes .... good luck. I have pool clothes with splatters just for that purpose. Ha.

Well, I figure that bathing suits are made to handle chlorine, so I just throw on one before I do anything with chlorine - I haven't had any issues with bleach spots on them, so far/knock on wood.