I actually have a question for you since you're familiar with the salt cell. My wife and I are new to the Dallas area, had a pool built and we had a Jandy truclear salt cell installed. Just wondering what you do for the winters out here regarding the salt cell operation? any feed back would be great.
tips on operating the Jandy Truclear Chlorine Generating system during the winter
- Thread starter Blueline21292
- Start date
We reside in the Dallas Texas area, looking for any tips on how to operate the Jandy Truclear Chlorine Generating system during the winters.
How cold is your water? Did the manual give you the low temp limit for use? Most salt systems stop working between water temps of 50-60º .
During the cold winter months that's when you switch to Liquid Chlorine...but its painless as it lasts longer than during the summer.
Maddie
During the cold winter months that's when you switch to Liquid Chlorine...but its painless as it lasts longer than during the summer.
Maddie
- Jul 21, 2013
- 64,979
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
- Jul 21, 2013
- 64,979
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Use liquid chlorine to chlorinate your pool when the water temperature gets into the 50s.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 52,011
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Blueline, we had to move this post from the other (old) thread since it's not active anymore. But I will tag @MonkeyGirl22 just in case.
Appreciate you sharing this with me I did see this in my operation manual. I was trying to see what other people do instead of turning off the system or is that the only solution, and if you do turn off the system do you remove the cell and replace the cap with a winterizing cap (R0621900). If we turn off the system and use chlorine tabs does the chlorine deplete the salt water? Can you keep the pool temp set at 55 degrees using the heater....just trying to see what other tips are out.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 52,011
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
For those of us who still have the system running, you have the option of leaving the cell in place and turning off power (or setting output to zero) so that it doesn't try to produce FC in cold water. Or you can remove the cell in its entirety and replacing with a dummy cell. In cold water, simply add liquid chlorine as needed to maintain the proper FC level. The chlorine should last much longer in these cold temps. The salt in the water doesn't go anywhere. If you elect to use tablets, be very careful how many you use because each tablet increases your CYA level. As the CYA increases, you are forced to increase the FC level per the
FC/CYA Levels. Check your heater owners manual, but most heaters warn you about using it once the water temp fall below a certain temp (i.e. 6o degrees) as it can cause damage.
In our pool, once the water gets too cold for the SWG, I just add liquid chlorine once a week or so. Easy stuff.
FC/CYA Levels. Check your heater owners manual, but most heaters warn you about using it once the water temp fall below a certain temp (i.e. 6o degrees) as it can cause damage.
In our pool, once the water gets too cold for the SWG, I just add liquid chlorine once a week or so. Easy stuff.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 64,979
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Use of the winterizing cap can protect the cell from freezing damage if that is a risk in your area.
That is a different concern then possible damage to the cell if it is allowed to generate in cold water.
Please explain “deplete the salt water” as there is something in your understanding that should be clarified. Salt water is never “depleted”. Salt water is lost through draining or splash out.
Depends on how your heater handles condensation…
Heater Condensation - Further Reading
www.troublefreepool.com
I'm new to all this salt water stuff....as for the depleting of chlorine that was my error.....its a new pool and I'm getting ready to put the salt in the pool.....we live in Dallas texas and it does drop below 50.....I see you have a salt water pool and reside in Jersey....I'm originally from NY so I know what your winters are like-my understanding and please correct me if I'm wrong...I can put the salt in the pool but because its below 50 I shouldn't run the trueclear chlorine generating system and turn it off until the temps rise?Use of the winterizing cap can protect the cell from freezing damage if that is a risk in your area.
That is a different concern then possible damage to the cell if it is allowed to generate in cold water.
Please explain “deplete the salt water” as there is something in your understanding that should be clarified. Salt water is never “depleted”. Salt water is lost through draining or splash out.
Depends on how your heater handles condensation…
Heater Condensation - Further Reading
Wow....thank you this was very informative....I'm new to this salt water stuff....
- Jul 21, 2013
- 64,979
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
You can put salt in your pool now with the water temperature below 55F but you can’t run the SWG, so why bother?
Wait until the water gets to about 60F. The salt will dissolve better in warmer water. Then add the salt. Add 2/3 of the salt you think you need and let your pump run for 24-48 hours to dissolve it. Then test the salinity with a K-1766 salt test kit. Then add a bit more salt if necessary.
If you overshoot your salt level you can only lower it by draining. So better to undershoot and then add more.
Once you get the target salt level turn on the SWG.
What brand salt will you be adding?
www.troublefreepool.com
Wait until the water gets to about 60F. The salt will dissolve better in warmer water. Then add the salt. Add 2/3 of the salt you think you need and let your pump run for 24-48 hours to dissolve it. Then test the salinity with a K-1766 salt test kit. Then add a bit more salt if necessary.
If you overshoot your salt level you can only lower it by draining. So better to undershoot and then add more.
Once you get the target salt level turn on the SWG.
What brand salt will you be adding?
Salt - Further Reading
www.troublefreepool.com
I see you reside in san antonio....do you shut the system off during our cold weather we get here in dallas or san antonio is warmer during the winters than dallas? I saw the video and will order the test kit
- Jun 22, 2014
- 52,011
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
One year I turned it off, but most of the time I just let it ride. I figured if it was too cold it would just stop producing. In those situations I just add liquid chlorine as needed, maybe once a week. I do have a dummy cell I could install, but I'm too lazy to remove my cell. Ha My water temp is currently about 52-54 degrees.,
- Jul 21, 2013
- 64,979
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Pat, note that the Jandy Truclear does not have a temperature sensor that automatically turns off the SWG at low temperature the way your Circupool SWG does. You can let it ride but Jandy in their manual posted above recommends the cell be turned off to prevent damage if the cell continues to generate.
Thanks brother.....right now our water temp if 49....appreciate all the help...these manuals make it sounds like the dam system will break...again thanks.....
- Jul 21, 2013
- 64,979
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
You two have different systems that operate differently.
The Circupool has a flow switch with a temperature sensor.
The Jandy Truclear has a gas trap sensor and no temperature sensors.
Shopping around for how people operate other systems will lead you astray.
I have the system off because its a new pool and I had to wait 30 days before putting salt in.....the tips given really helped us out.....when the water temps drop below 55 for an extended time I'll turn off the system and test the levels once a week and add as needed.....jandy does sell a winterizing cap for now since we are new to the area I will see how long the water temps stay below 55 and that will tell me if I should remove the cell and use the cap.....unless others on this site feel its not necessary
I do appreciate all the information
One thing I haven't seen mentiioned is that you need to turn the cell OFF any time you're adding salt. If undissolved salt were to go thru your system (the cell, literally) it could cause problems for it. Brush the salt around to help it disperse and dissolve.
Wait one day before turning the salt cell back on.
Always have your Free Chlorine (FC) up to your desired level using Liquid Chlorine first, then when you turn the cell on the next day the cell with work to *maintain* that desired FC level. It works very slowly, and steadily. Like a tortoise. It will NOT work fast enough to take your FC from Zero to x amount before algae can move in.
Maddie
Wait one day before turning the salt cell back on.
Always have your Free Chlorine (FC) up to your desired level using Liquid Chlorine first, then when you turn the cell on the next day the cell with work to *maintain* that desired FC level. It works very slowly, and steadily. Like a tortoise. It will NOT work fast enough to take your FC from Zero to x amount before algae can move in.
Maddie