SmartPool/Fafco Solar panel install.. build notes/questions / cracked pipe in spring?
At this point i'm going to solar panels here in SW PA... where the water is currently around 60F, typical nighttime losses without solar cover are about 2-4 degrees this week.. started the week out at 54F, a few 65 days (cloudy) one sunny 70 and one partly cloud 73 later without a solar cover at night and the pool is now sitting at 60-61 this evening. I realize i should leave the cover on 24/7 once i have the panels up, since now i wont have to take it off in the daytime i guess.. since the sun power will get directly fed to the pool (and since the cover is blue not clear). In summary, my typical 79F day i'd see about a 4F rise without a solar cover at night or day and any other influence. Hoping that with this kit i can go above that a bit and go from 60 to 75 in a few weeks.
Hoping to get a 5-10F delta T on the return temp (read by the hayward actuator i think).
I had to buy two roofing kits to cover both boxes for the full 160sq feet ($40x2), still wonder if i could have done cheaper on this angle.
The roof gets good sun (as of april 30th) 10am till at least 530pm (so a solid 8+ hours a day), likely will run this pump 9-10 hours per day from 930-630pm (about 2.5 turnovers i calculate, based on the 40 feet standard head at 2650gph with the 21" tank, its closer to 3650gph if i had the 24" tank)
Ill be running the solar lead in the ground (thermostat wire extension).. the only part in the ground technically needs to be between the garage and deck (8 feet with a drop down to get them buried 1 foot). I was planning on leaving the rest of the pvc/solar lead wire on the top of the ground under the deck.
It will be 2" pvc for all the solar sections.. connected to 1.5" pvc near the pump.. ill lay the 3 way/actuator on a paver i have under the deck or screw it into buried wood with a clamp in the same spot, about 2 feet from the pump.
I think deck screws will do the job on clamping the pvc to the wall, though pricey at $30 for 5lb.
Any thoughts and suggestions are welcome
Build details here (updating as I go):
Here is the currently planned layout.. the ball valves going on the garage wall
Need about 85 Feet of PVC pipe, to reduce the added head (so go with 2" instead of 1.5)
items needed (some specific to my layout):
SolarPro 601P 80 square foot box (2) for 160 sq feet total (18' has about 245 square feet, ideal 50% of this) (manual)
SolarPro SK43 Roofing Kit (2)
**Possible better straps (lowes?) (so far, just using the originals)
Hayward GLC-2P-A Solar Heating Control SystemHeating Control System (has sensors and 3 way valve and actuator)
**Wire to extend the 10-12" leads out to 40 feet (at least the sun sensor)
Lowes thermostat 18awg wire for extending the leads, barely had enough for the roof + water sensor (used soldering iron)
Lowes 2" PVC Pipes DWV but should be ok (10 foot) x 11
Lowes 2" right angle bends (slip to slip)
Lowes 2" right angle bends (slip to non slip) (maybe)
Lowes 2" slip tee (for after the return check valve)
Lowes 2" Couplers (7+)
Lowes Lasco 2" to 1.5" bushings (for after the tee, back to 1.5")
Jandy Check Valve 7305 $40 (2" to 2.5 so the 2" pvc slides INSIDE the valve joints) (TWO of these)
**edit: ended up buying the retro flowvis kit for $90 extra to put on the return check valve (in retrospect, better to just get the flowvis check valve from start, save $40ish)
Lowes Ball Valve (maybe) x 2
Lowes Watts Vacuum Relief Valve 1/2" $30
Lowes 1/2 to 1.5" bushing converter for the vac relief
Lowes 1.5 to 2" bushing converter $2.08 x 3? (non threaded one)
**ended up doing a combination of bushings and pipe to make the conversions from the solar panel 1.5" threaded pipe to the 2" connections
Lowes 2" union (may not need?)
Pipe anchors for the pipe (held down in about 6-7 spots around the area, along with opposite corners, top left and top right)
Pipe anchor lag screws 3/8 by 5" (too long?) (these are zinc not galvanized) (may need 25-30) OR
Pipe anchor deck screws 2.5" 5lb box $30? (didnt work, ended up using the extra self tapping screws that came with the solar kit/roof kits)
Drain Tee (threaded on bottom for plug) for the bottom of each input/output line near garage before going vertical x 2
A few other miscellaneous PVC couplers and adapters, as seen in the photos below
through the roof via amazon $19 for two or $7.95 for ONE (put on after screws in place)
UPDATE: 5-13-17
Here are some new shots of the now completed system, along with an aerial view
In the pic below you can see the solar sensor shoved under a shingle (put silicone under the probe as instructed, to prevent wind cooling).. i ended up moving it a little higher (looking at it from the ground up and to the left), so when there is "half" shadows, it can still run and not be "off"
**this spot in the image below, you can see didnt fully go together, had some trouble.. there is a small drip every 10 seconds, nothing to really worry about, i may try some of that mesh you can wrap and becomes hard as steel later.
edit:
this is the updated direction of flow for the valve (to the "should be on portion), off is still to the left for off
Aerial video of the pool/panels
Aerial Video of Intex Ultra Frame 18 foot pool and SolarHeater Panels - YouTube
At this point i'm going to solar panels here in SW PA... where the water is currently around 60F, typical nighttime losses without solar cover are about 2-4 degrees this week.. started the week out at 54F, a few 65 days (cloudy) one sunny 70 and one partly cloud 73 later without a solar cover at night and the pool is now sitting at 60-61 this evening. I realize i should leave the cover on 24/7 once i have the panels up, since now i wont have to take it off in the daytime i guess.. since the sun power will get directly fed to the pool (and since the cover is blue not clear). In summary, my typical 79F day i'd see about a 4F rise without a solar cover at night or day and any other influence. Hoping that with this kit i can go above that a bit and go from 60 to 75 in a few weeks.
Hoping to get a 5-10F delta T on the return temp (read by the hayward actuator i think).
I had to buy two roofing kits to cover both boxes for the full 160sq feet ($40x2), still wonder if i could have done cheaper on this angle.
The roof gets good sun (as of april 30th) 10am till at least 530pm (so a solid 8+ hours a day), likely will run this pump 9-10 hours per day from 930-630pm (about 2.5 turnovers i calculate, based on the 40 feet standard head at 2650gph with the 21" tank, its closer to 3650gph if i had the 24" tank)
Ill be running the solar lead in the ground (thermostat wire extension).. the only part in the ground technically needs to be between the garage and deck (8 feet with a drop down to get them buried 1 foot). I was planning on leaving the rest of the pvc/solar lead wire on the top of the ground under the deck.
It will be 2" pvc for all the solar sections.. connected to 1.5" pvc near the pump.. ill lay the 3 way/actuator on a paver i have under the deck or screw it into buried wood with a clamp in the same spot, about 2 feet from the pump.
I think deck screws will do the job on clamping the pvc to the wall, though pricey at $30 for 5lb.
Any thoughts and suggestions are welcome
Build details here (updating as I go):
Here is the currently planned layout.. the ball valves going on the garage wall
Need about 85 Feet of PVC pipe, to reduce the added head (so go with 2" instead of 1.5)
items needed (some specific to my layout):
SolarPro 601P 80 square foot box (2) for 160 sq feet total (18' has about 245 square feet, ideal 50% of this) (manual)
SolarPro SK43 Roofing Kit (2)
**Possible better straps (lowes?) (so far, just using the originals)
Hayward GLC-2P-A Solar Heating Control SystemHeating Control System (has sensors and 3 way valve and actuator)
**Wire to extend the 10-12" leads out to 40 feet (at least the sun sensor)
Lowes thermostat 18awg wire for extending the leads, barely had enough for the roof + water sensor (used soldering iron)
Lowes 2" PVC Pipes DWV but should be ok (10 foot) x 11
Lowes 2" right angle bends (slip to slip)
Lowes 2" right angle bends (slip to non slip) (maybe)
Lowes 2" slip tee (for after the return check valve)
Lowes 2" Couplers (7+)
Lowes Lasco 2" to 1.5" bushings (for after the tee, back to 1.5")
Jandy Check Valve 7305 $40 (2" to 2.5 so the 2" pvc slides INSIDE the valve joints) (TWO of these)
**edit: ended up buying the retro flowvis kit for $90 extra to put on the return check valve (in retrospect, better to just get the flowvis check valve from start, save $40ish)
Lowes Ball Valve (maybe) x 2
Lowes Watts Vacuum Relief Valve 1/2" $30
Lowes 1/2 to 1.5" bushing converter for the vac relief
Lowes 1.5 to 2" bushing converter $2.08 x 3? (non threaded one)
**ended up doing a combination of bushings and pipe to make the conversions from the solar panel 1.5" threaded pipe to the 2" connections
Lowes 2" union (may not need?)
Pipe anchors for the pipe (held down in about 6-7 spots around the area, along with opposite corners, top left and top right)
Pipe anchor lag screws 3/8 by 5" (too long?) (these are zinc not galvanized) (may need 25-30) OR
Pipe anchor deck screws 2.5" 5lb box $30? (didnt work, ended up using the extra self tapping screws that came with the solar kit/roof kits)
Drain Tee (threaded on bottom for plug) for the bottom of each input/output line near garage before going vertical x 2
A few other miscellaneous PVC couplers and adapters, as seen in the photos below
through the roof via amazon $19 for two or $7.95 for ONE (put on after screws in place)
UPDATE: 5-13-17
Here are some new shots of the now completed system, along with an aerial view
In the pic below you can see the solar sensor shoved under a shingle (put silicone under the probe as instructed, to prevent wind cooling).. i ended up moving it a little higher (looking at it from the ground up and to the left), so when there is "half" shadows, it can still run and not be "off"
**this spot in the image below, you can see didnt fully go together, had some trouble.. there is a small drip every 10 seconds, nothing to really worry about, i may try some of that mesh you can wrap and becomes hard as steel later.
edit:
this is the updated direction of flow for the valve (to the "should be on portion), off is still to the left for off
Aerial video of the pool/panels
Aerial Video of Intex Ultra Frame 18 foot pool and SolarHeater Panels - YouTube
sounds like you have a similar roof situation.. im still debating whether to go for it or trial in the grass.. how many hours a day do you think yours will get sun.. do you think you'll use your main pool pump for everything or use a secondary.. ill look for the through the roof, hopefully at lowes.. thanks for the tip