bloedkolben
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This "fix" (which actually is no real fix because it doesn't solve the real problem) only works with the C-2013 boards (there are several...).
C-2006 or C-2003 need real repair.
Softub motor cycling on and off repeatedly
- Thread starter dunetubbies
- Start date
C-2006 or C-2003 need real repair.
I'm having the same issue - I see you are also from Toronto...where did you buy the capacitors? I am having a hard time finding them
Hi, I had cycling issue with our Softub and found an alternate $40 solution. Here's the quick guide
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Been poking around at the controller board here on my desk before I send it out for repair. It looks like Softub either did a ****** job designing the board or some someone in the supply chain incorrectly swapped the processor with another variant that has different electrical requirements. I see exactly one decoupling capacitor (C20) on the PIC16F273A microcontroller installed in my unit - per Microchips datasheet, this device requires additional capacitance on at least one of three pins additional pins to support the internal regulator of the microcontroller. None of the three specified pins are connected to a capacitor (which pin is selected in the programming of the device). I'm half temped to hook this up to JTAG and dump the code and see if they are configuring the VCAP pin or not.... not that I have the time to disassemble the code... but Dang, charging the money they do for these thing and do such a sloppy job. There is a big highlighted note in the datasheet indicating the requirements of this extra cap! I have fired engineers for less...
The capacitor trick mentioned in this thread is essentially adding additional capacitance to the main 5V supply - there is already a 100uF 10V electrolytic cap in place, but I'd be willing to bet it has degraded to the point of being useless. Most electrolytics are rated at a few thousand hours at best - heat, which there is plenty of in the hydropack, is the primary killer of these caps as it dries them out. Best would be to replace with a ceramic or tantalum.
T
The capacitor trick mentioned in this thread is essentially adding additional capacitance to the main 5V supply - there is already a 100uF 10V electrolytic cap in place, but I'd be willing to bet it has degraded to the point of being useless. Most electrolytics are rated at a few thousand hours at best - heat, which there is plenty of in the hydropack, is the primary killer of these caps as it dries them out. Best would be to replace with a ceramic or tantalum.
T
Def interested in the parts listed you used in this setup....
I have the same problem. Local repair would be $600 but they cant even take it in right now.
I'm looking at trying the capacitor fix or attempting to install a new controller like jameshuck mentioned above.
Are there any safety issues I should be concerned with if I'm doing the capacitor fix?
I'm looking at trying the capacitor fix or attempting to install a new controller like jameshuck mentioned above.
Are there any safety issues I should be concerned with if I'm doing the capacitor fix?
I have same issue. T300 - the mother board is all encased in clear stuff and its a C-2006 where would i put the capacitor?
Anyone have an answer for where to put the capacitor on a c-2006? I would really appreciate it.
When I first plug in my softub (2 speed motor with C2013 board) comes on with a P display and then after about 5 seconds, I hear a short buzz that sounds like a motor starting, the P goes dark, the HEAT light flashes, and everything goes dead for a fraction of a second. Then the whole process starts over again. If I press the JETS button, the HEAT light doesn't come on but the pump motor will start and run in low for a few seconds and then go to high speed.You should test the sensors before you try to replace them. What we have found is that the board is the main issue in the "short cycling" problem. We believe that the issue is with the logic chip on the board or the traces that are making the voltages fluctuate. Softub has no schematics for the boards that we can get so we were just chasing the traces and voltages on the board. The part number for the sensors is 1124800-S but everything softub is propriatary so they will be hard to find.
View attachment 394268
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Coates High Temperature Limit Switch | 22003820
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SpaGuts Replacement Thermostat, 48in CAP X 5/16in X 4.0in BULB
SpaGuts Replacement Thermostat, 48in CAP X 5/16in X 4.0in BULB Replacement SpaGuts Replacement Thermostat, 48in CAP X 5/16in X 4.0in BULB.www.spaguts.com
The coil on the pump is doing very little to heat the water, the primary function is to cool the motor down. Avoid any of the plastic ones on eBay, the motors overheat and die quickly.
The problem seems to be as if the HEAT circuit is shorted and causing the circuit board voltage to drop so low as to cause everything to die and reset.
What exactly does the HEAT circuit do? Can I isolate it and test it to see if it is shorted?
If the circuit is shared, when the hearer comes on it draws a lot and if the voltage drops on the board due to shared loads, bad connections, extension cord, etc. it can cause a retry on starting up. Make sure the prongs don't fit loose in the outlet, and if possible check voltage at the board (if you know how to do it safely, it's dangerous). Cords having the GFI in them are sometimes bad too.
This is my first thought on troubleshooting, just my $.02
I agree with you for a normal tub, but my understanding is that the softub doesn't even have a heater per se. All the heat comes by wrapping the water channeled to a heat exchanger near the motor. What I haven't figured out is why there is even a "HEAT" light. But there is a light and I think whenever it comes on there is this voltage drop that causes the board to "reset". I'm thinking that during the "HEAT" cycle there is a solenoid that pulls and causes the water to go to the motor and when in "JETS" mode the solenoid doesn't get actuated. If that is the case, the solenoid might be shorted and causing the problem I'm seeing.
Or wire insulation wore through if it was touching somewhere there is vibration?
Sounds like a possible starting point for troubleshooting. At least a process of elimination usually gets you closer to a resolution...
Thanks Methuselah for the pointers. I did finally pull the whole thing apart and found out there really isn't a "HEAT" circuit. I'm now guessing the HEAT light comes on just to indicate the unit itself is calling for heat from the pump rather than the user just turning the pump on. I think the end results are exactly the same.
Anyway, after repairing overheated connections to the main motor start relay and adding some capacitors as recommended in another thread here, the softub now has been working without any issues. I still don't understand exactly why it was failing before, but with a little luck it will continue to work.
overheated connections can have high resistance, sometimes you check with a dmm and just the probe tips pushing makes contact and you get a good reading where it was bad and sometimes movement from prodding causes a temporary fix. Then too, a connection can arc and the fusion is a fix (for as long as it lasts). Sounds like the connections you repaired were the culprit, but the capacitor is a really good idea as this seemed to be an Achilleas heal on these tubs, the one in circuit dries up and loses value, the shunted one you put in restores that.
I hope it stays fixed!!!
I called Softub Canada and they said these were manufactured with cheap chip boards. They currently do not have replacements in Canada so they are shipping to Quebec to refurbish. Mine is under warranty but I still have to fork out 250 bucks
I have a T-220 Softub that I bought 7 years ago in 2016. I started having the cycling on and off issue like a lot of others. Before I paid $1000 to the local softub repair guy, I figured I'd give the so-called "capacitor trick" a try. I bought the capacitors on Amazon: "10PCS 10uF 25V Nichicon Muse ES BP (Bipolar) Audio Grade, 85 Degree high Temperature Capacitor 5x11 mm for high-end Audio." The cost was $10.59 for the 10 pack. I figured I'd get extras in case I broke some or needed to do the repair again. They are Bipolar but come with one lead longer. I simply cut the longer lead with a scissor as it made it easier to place into the fittings. The whole process of disconnecting the hoses, taking off the hydromate cover, doing the fix, etc and reinstalling it back in place on the softub took me a little over an hour. I didnt know what I was doing so if you worked on the softub before you could do it a lot quicker. In any event its working great! I am beyond thrilled! Thank you Olivier1 and others who have posted here!
They probably can be had in 105 degree and long mtbf (life) rating, which would be better if they are near a heat source.
I am going to try this fix too, since I have a similar situation. Question: can I run my motor (to test) without water circulating thru it?