I need help. I can't seem to get a power response from the heater. The digital board won't light up. As the pics show I'm getting 27v to the board. The board is brand new. Is there any other reason the display won't light up other than the board? Or any other testing I can do to diagnose? I did do a Heck up when I installed the new board. The rocker switch on the side panel arched against the side panel (I was trying to pull the switch out because I thought the switch was bad, it's not). Could that of fried the new board? I appreciate any insight. Thanks guys!
Raypak 2100 heater
- Thread starter _jackson
- Start date
Likely blew this fuse:
Raypak Kit-fuse Pc Board Rp2100 (005384f) - INYOPools.com
005384F - KIT-FUSE PC BOARD RP2100 (005384F)
www.inyopools.com
Thanks for the response! Where is that located on the board and can I check the continuity with my multimeter?Likely blew this fuse:
Raypak Kit-fuse Pc Board Rp2100 (005384f) - INYOPools.com
005384F - KIT-FUSE PC BOARD RP2100 (005384F)
I believe so, yes. With the power off, test for continuity between the solder points on the other side of the board.
Ok, so the yellow one has continuity and the red one does not. The red fuse physically resembles the one you linked the most. Man it's hard to find this level of info out there on the interwebs. Even searching by that fuse I couldn't find much. I had already ordered a new (used tested good) board before the responses and It should be here tomorrow or the next day. If it works, I'll order that fuse and see if I can get that board working and sell it. I will update my findings on this thread and hopefully it will help someone in the future. If nothing else, I've learned a heck of a lot.
Attachments
Well the new board came and I’m still getting the same result, no power. Not sure what it can be. Any other ideas Poolman?
In the first pictures, the ribbon cable for the display board looks like it has some corrosion on it. Might check that.
Excitement followed by more frustration! To recap, I’ve moved back into this house after being away for 8 years. So I’m learning all this equipment again. My previous pool guy said it was the board so when I moved in I bought a used but tested board and it didn’t work. Thinking it could be the on/off switch, I ended up arching it on the side of the cabinet. So what did I do? I ordered another board. Well, this 3rd board didn’t work either. 1poolman1 mentioned the fuse he linked. Board 1 and 2 no continuity in that fuse, board 3 has continuity? At this point I’m determined to solve this! I set up my own test station in the house with the transformer wired to 120v and tested all 3 boards. I placed a wire to between the legs of the blown fuse…my original board and 2nd board light up !! I was excited. New fuses will fix those. The 3rd board, the edges of the lcd screen light up but no lettering or codes came up. I swapped out the lcd board with one of the others and it worked. This 3rd board I’m able to return to recoup some money.
Now here’s the confusing part. I took the working board and lcd screen out to the heater and it still doesn’t work. 27v confirmed to the harness plug. I thought there may be an issue with the plug where it connects to the board so I swapped it out. Still doesn’t work, and I brought that harness and board back in to test and it works inside. I’m stumped. The only difference between the heater outside and my test station is 240v vs. 120v. Any ideas on why I can’t get this to work at the heater?
Now here’s the confusing part. I took the working board and lcd screen out to the heater and it still doesn’t work. 27v confirmed to the harness plug. I thought there may be an issue with the plug where it connects to the board so I swapped it out. Still doesn’t work, and I brought that harness and board back in to test and it works inside. I’m stumped. The only difference between the heater outside and my test station is 240v vs. 120v. Any ideas on why I can’t get this to work at the heater?
Reinstall it to the board and disconnect the wiring at the gas valve. Board light up? Shorted gas valve or wiring.
Yes it lights up with every wire except the ground. Once ground is connected it doesn't work. With the ground disconnected, the board will read SPRK and I hear continuous "ticking" from ignitor.
I noticed the actual heater doesn't appear ground/bonded, so when I ran copper wiring from the cabinet to pump bonding wire the board will not turn on. Does this indicate a wiring issue elsewhere in the heater? Not sure where to look from here
Be sure that there is no rodent damage to any of the wiring causing it to short against itself or the cabinet.
Sounds like there is an internal short to ground in the valve itself. With the heater off and the cabinet open, have your finger on the gas valve with the ground disconnected so that the ignition sequence starts (ignitor "ticks'). Do you hear and feel the gas valve open? It will make a definite, heavy, click. If not, measure voltage at the MV/PV and PV terminals. Is it about 24V? If so, the valve is not opening, likely has an internal short, and needs to be replaced.
Get it in a RayPak or Rheem box and it is +/- $400.00. Get it on Amazon and it is about $145.00.
Amazon.com/Honeywell-VR8345M-4302-Universal-Standard-Intermittent/dp/B0015KAHHA/ref=asc_df_B0015KAHHA/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198075247191&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2109219549491948052&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9032549&hvtargid=pla-321191958617&psc=1&mcid=096cf38709f93373b34545cb58b0da6c&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIuoD93rjHhQMVrxCtBh29fgKrEAQYAiABEgJJufD_BwE
I feel
The wiring appears to be intact. I definitely hear that click of the valve. I’m pretty sure I heard the pilot light as well. The igniter continues to click. Is this what you mean? Does that still sound like an internal short of the valve?
Very hard to hear a pilot actually light. You have to see it to be sure. Continuing to click if it is lit is a flames sense problem which can also be from a bad ground. If you re install the ground to the valve while the system is "clicking," does it quit? Sounds like a bad valve if so. That's an old heater that can have multiple issues.
You aren't kidding about multiple issues lol. Well, I did what you said and tried to ground the wire during clicking. It sparked and shut off. Which made me investigate a short somewhere further. I unscrewed the left side panel and found this fuckery. I'm assuming this sensor is bad and someone previously bypassed it. In the photo I have it proped up, the connector was resting on the other sensor on the right creating a short. As soon as I moved it the heater fired up. Problem solved. You were tremendous help poolman! Thanks for all your help on this.
Attachments
Please, DO NOT use that heater like that and replace that pressure switch NOW. It doesn't have to be in a RayPak box, any generic will work as RayPak just buys them from TecMark. Between $22-$24 online.
Of all the things someone can do to force a heater to fire, that is the most dangerous. That heater now "thinks" that there is enough water flow for it to safely fire, even with the pump off. You really don't want to see what a runaway heater can do. I've seen it twice and it isn't good. The temperature in the combustion chamber can reach 2000 degrees.