Pool green

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josh1856

josh1856

Gold Supporter
Aug 23, 2019
31
Illinois
Pool Size
14000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
I honestly don’t know what to say other than I’m at my wits end. I’ve maintained a followed trouble free pool and the advice and knowledge for over 6 years with a 24’ above ground pool with zero issues. The last 30 days or so have been heck. I am unable to get the green out of the pool using the SLAM method. I’ve gone to the extent of replacing 60% of the water with new filtered water. I’ve changed out the sand filter to a cartridge filter three days ago 1.5 hp pump. I did make the mistake around the Fourth of July adding some algicide to clear it up quickly it was always blue/green but again replaced the water about 60+% with new filtered water.

I added a new 1500sq+ft deck around the pool using pressure treated wood and I almost wonder if the saw dust treated with some form of copper didn’t cause the issue. Although I’ve tested via the strips 0 copper, 0 iron so have a acid test coming in the mail now to be able to test “total copper”.

Here are the latest pool stats these haven’t changed much except the ph keeps increasing and the free chlorine keeps decreasing but no combined chlorine usually if it does show up it’s like .5 for a brief period.


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CA is around 35. Up until recently only 12% sodium hypochlorite was added. Tried cal-hypo and trichlor to help keep up with SLAM but no change.
Pump and filter are combo

Hayward W3CC15093S​

 
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Do you lower your pH to 7.2 before you add the chlorine to slam? That helps the FC work better to have a lower pH. Also pH can’t be reliably tested with the Taylor kit above FC 10, so make sure to test it when it’s lower than 10

Something to try if you haven’t already
 
Boomerbull said:
Do you lower your pH to 7.2 before you add the chlorine to slam? That helps the FC work better to have a lower pH. Also pH can’t be reliably tested with the Taylor kit above FC 10, so make sure to test it when it’s lower than 10

Something to try if you haven’t already
Click to expand...
Yes lowered it to 7.2 before. I also have a ph meter that’s calibrated I use in addition to the Taylor kit.
 
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Quick update on test results and I pulled the inline auto chlorinator just to eliminate more. So skimmer, pump, cartridge filter back to pool return. No heater or chlorinator hooked up.
 

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If your CYA now is 40 after replacing 60% of your water then it was closer to 90 before. The algaecide is a cheap ammonia type, so you were likely not hitting SLAM level and with the ammonia algaecide eating up the FC it's very possible things just haven't been progressing.

Have you added anything else to the water at all? Now isn't the time to hold back, if you've added anything in desperation then knowing about it is vital to trying to suss out this problem.
 
How often are you testing and replacing FC. What FC are you targeting?

If your CYA is now 40, your target should be 16. Test and replace FC to get back to 16 FC every hour or two and you should see improvement in a few days. Testing and replacing one or twice a day will not work.
 
PoolStored said:
How often are you testing and replacing FC. What FC are you targeting?

If your CYA is now 40, your target should be 16. Test and replace FC to get back to 16 FC every hour or two and you should see improvement in a few days. Testing and replacing one or twice a day will not work.
Click to expand...
Testing and replacing morning and night I’ll step up my game and do it every couple of hours. I’ve never had pool water this stubborn before morning/night usually works for me.
 

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josh1856 said:
Testing and replacing morning and night I’ll step up my game and do it every couple of hours. I’ve never had pool water this stubborn before morning/night usually works for me.
Click to expand...
Yep, that is your issue. If you are home, do it every 1-2 hours...you should see a change fairly quickly (within a couple days...)

Print this out, read it three times, keep it with you for reference. Having a hard copy really helped me...Link-->SLAM Process
 
Josh, JD and PS are taking good care of you. No need to make the SLAM Process anymore difficult than it needs to be. Accurate testing of the CYA and FC, coupled with consistent FC maintenance, should get you back on track. Keep us posted on your progress.
 
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Also - have you scrubbed everywhere possible no matter how small? Lights, skimmers, weir doors, ports, ladders, inside ladders, main drain, pool equipment, robots, under coping edges, etc etc..

Just thinking of things besides chemical….
 
BDY said:
Also - have you scrubbed everywhere possible no matter how small? Lights, skimmers, weir doors, ports, ladders, inside ladders, main drain, pool equipment, robots, under coping edges, etc etc..

Just thinking of things besides chemical….
Click to expand...
I have scrubbed everything and keep doing it every day.
 
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Stop using Trichlor and CalHypo.....those are multi-ingredient products that are defeating your purpose. Use nothing but Liquid Chlorine. Usally 10-12% strength and sells most cheaply at Walmart from what I hear? In the pool section.

Maddie :flower:
 
Donldson said:
If your CYA now is 40 after replacing 60% of your water then it was closer to 90 before. The algaecide is a cheap ammonia type, so you were likely not hitting SLAM level and with the ammonia algaecide eating up the FC it's very possible things just haven't been progressing.

Have you added anything else to the water at all? Now isn't the time to hold back, if you've added anything in desperation then knowing about it is vital to trying to suss out this problem.
Click to expand...
Before the 60% refill, I used dichlor and cal because I was unable to keep the liquid high enough. I also tried clarifier and mineral fighter. Here are the links. After filling I have only used liquid.

Links:
Clarifier: https://sp.menardc.com/main/items/media/UTIKE001/SDS/UtikemConcentratedClarifierSDS.pdf
Mineral: https://sp.menardc.com/main/items/media/UTIKE001/SDS/UtikemIronMyte.pdf
dichlor: https://sp.menardc.com/main/items/media/UTIKE001/SDS/shockx-tra.pdf
cal: https://sp.menardc.com/main/items/media/UTIKE001/SDS/UtikemOneShotShockTreatmentSDS.pdf
 
josh1856 said:
Before the 60% refill, I used dichlor and cal because I was unable to keep the liquid high enough. I also tried clarifier and mineral fighter. Here are the links. After filling I have only used liquid.

Links:
Clarifier: https://sp.menardc.com/main/items/media/UTIKE001/SDS/UtikemConcentratedClarifierSDS.pdf
Click to expand...
Prioprietary blend....no idea what it is...
josh1856 said:
Mineral: https://sp.menardc.com/main/items/media/UTIKE001/SDS/UtikemIronMyte.pdf
Click to expand...
HEDP (Hydroxyethylidene Diphosphonic Acid). HEDP is an organophosphate metal sequestrant. Not sure why they had you add this...
https://sp.menardc.com/main/items/media/UTIKE001/SDS/UtikemIronMyte.pdf
josh1856 said:
dichlor: https://sp.menardc.com/main/items/media/UTIKE001/SDS/shockx-tra.pdf
cal: https://sp.menardc.com/main/items/media/UTIKE001/SDS/UtikemOneShotShockTreatmentSDS.pdf
Click to expand...
These added CYA and Calcium.

Chlorine should take care of your issue. Make sure you have a good CYA test result to establish SLAM level. Then stay on top of it and it will clear. The more often, the better and faster it will clear.

Review these too:
www.troublefreepool.com

Recommended Pool Chemicals

Which should I buy? TFP's recommended pool chemicals are cheap, easy, and won't unbalance your pool water.
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
www.troublefreepool.com

Non-Recommended Pool Chemicals

These pool chemicals should not be added to your pool. Save your money and frustration and avoid these chemicals!
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
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