Omni PL Upgrade Kit Hayward Automation

[Sgt1411]

I hope all goes well! I'll be interested in hearing if you had any issues. The shipping for my Sense & Dispense was delayed a few days so won't get a chance to install until probably next weekend. I purchased a Stenner pump/tank combo and was able to get powered up over the weekend, but still need to finish installing injector into pool plumbing. Any advice you can give on the Sense & Dispense is appreciated.

The Sense and Dispense & AQL CHEM unit was easy, electrical has two wire lead with plug on the end that goes directly on two pins that are clearly marked on the ProLogic board so hopefully the OmniPL upgrade board has same connector. On the plumbing side the Hayward guy in AZ came by my house and showed where to install the injector assembly. Just a few inches before the salt cell in the 2" PVC I drilled my hole and tapped it it with metal tap so I could screw in the Hayward injector fitting. Then on the return side the S&D hose goes the heater INLET side of the 2" PVC . Same thing, drill and tap the screw in fitting. See photos below.

 

[SliceOfParadise]

The Sense and Dispense & AQL CHEM unit was easy, electrical has two wire lead with plug on the end that goes directly on two pins that are clearly marked on the ProLogic board so hopefully the OmniPL upgrade board has same connector. On the plumbing side the Hayward guy in AZ came by my house and showed where to install the injector assembly. Just a few inches before the salt cell in the 2" PVC I drilled my hole and tapped it it with metal tap so I could screw in the Hayward injector fitting. Then on the return side the S&D hose goes the heater INLET side of the 2" PVC . Same thing, drill and tap the screw in fitting. See photos below.

I appreciate the feedback and photos! I completed the install today, anticipating the pluming and tapping the PVC was going to be the tricky part. That turned out to be a piece of cake. Unfortunately, the issue I'm having is getting the probes not to leak where they are screwed into the cell body. I attempted twice, removing and adding Teflon tape, but still have a very slight leak at both probes. I even think the plug screwed in behind the ORP probe is leaking a little.

The system is up and running, but I'm frustrated that I can't seem to get a good fit on the probes. I've done plenty of plumbing and irrigation work using Teflon tape, so I feel like it's not operator error. Part of me wants to just leave it, knowing the few drops of water every 20-30 minutes isn't a big deal. Plus I figure I'll need to pull the probes out to clean in another month or so.

Any advice is appreciated.

 

[Sgt1411]

I appreciate the feedback and photos! I completed the install today, anticipating the pluming and tapping the PVC was going to be the tricky part. That turned out to be a piece of cake. Unfortunately, the issue I'm having is getting the probes not to leak where they are screwed into the cell body. I attempted twice, removing and adding Teflon tape, but still have a very slight leak at both probes. I even think the plug screwed in behind the ORP probe is leaking a little.

The system is up and running, but I'm frustrated that I can't seem to get a good fit on the probes. I've done plenty of plumbing and irrigation work using Teflon tape, so I feel like it's not operator error. Part of me wants to just leave it, knowing the few drops of water every 20-30 minutes isn't a big deal. Plus I figure I'll need to pull the probes out to clean in another month or so.

Any advice is appreciated.

I had the exact same issue, it took three teflon tape applications to finally get the leaks to stop. I almost seems like it's more of a manufacturing tolerance issue. My cellbody (clear bowl) cracked also so I had a leak there and had to get a new body. My issue now is the injector site has a small rubber nipple that is clamped onto the 2"PVC with a special tridon hose clamp that seals it. The rubber nipple is old and after being in the AZ sun for all these years its leaking. The Hayward part is "GLX-Saddle" lots of pool websites show it on their site but when I order they come back and say "Part no longer available". If you can find one buy it for future use.

 

[SliceOfParadise]

I had the exact same issue, it took three teflon tape applications to finally get the leaks to stop. I almost seems like it's more of a manufacturing tolerance issue. My cellbody (clear bowl) cracked also so I had a leak there and had to get a new body. My issue now is the injector site has a small rubber nipple that is clamped onto the 2"PVC with a special tridon hose clamp that seals it. The rubber nipple is old and after being in the AZ sun for all these years its leaking. The Hayward part is "GLX-Saddle" lots of pool websites show it on their site but when I order they come back and say "Part no longer available". If you can find one buy it for future use.

That makes me feel a little better knowing I'm not the only one. I agree with your assessment about a manufacturing tolerance issue. I'll probably let it go until I inspect/clean the probes. On the topic of cleaning the probes, how often do you take yours out to clean and what kind of lifespan have you had on them?

Thanks!

 

[Sgt1411]

That makes me feel a little better knowing I'm not the only one. I agree with your assessment about a manufacturing tolerance issue. I'll probably let it go until I inspect/clean the probes. On the topic of cleaning the probes, how often do you take yours out to clean and what kind of lifespan have you had on them?

Thanks!

Its odd but PH probe seems to be more problematic then the ORP probe......I have replaced mine 3 times over 8 years but only 1 ORP replacement. Im cleaning every 6 months now as they are getting old and time soon to replace them. You used to get them for $200-$300 on EBay but no more. I use toothpaste and a toothbrush to clean.

 

[Sgt1411]

So today I got the OmniPL Upgrade Kit installed. Hayward does a great job getting all the wires converted over to the new system with new connectors and wire crimps to convert old wires over.

One thing I didn't know was when you pull off the White/Black wires on the old ProLogic Board for the AQL-CHEM PH Acid pump there is no new connections on OmniPL upgrade board so the manual says connect them to a relay. Not sure how they want that done.

The other thing is the instructions say my AQL-CHEM Sense and Dispense is no longer compatible and I will have to buy a new HL-CHEM S&D....I didnt know that.

When you set up the configuration menu you need to know which relays are controlling what features, Lights, pump,filter, blower, jets, I found this a bit confusing because my relays start with
Row 1 = FILTER PUMP-LIGHTS-AUX1-AUX2
Row2 = AUX3-AUX4-AUX5-AUX6

 

[Sgt1411]

My older AQL-CHEM Sense & Dispense would not work with the OmniPL programming. I made sure I had the latest firmware in my OmniPL unit but no joy. So I had to bite the bullet and purchase a new HL-CHEM Sense & Dispense which I found for $769 at Poolsupply4less.

Hayward HL-CHEM OmniLogic Sense and Dispence - PoolSupply4Less

Hayward OmniLogic HL-CHEM will allow you sense and dispense pool chemicals. Free Shipping is included.

www.poolsupply4less.com

For anyone considering this OmniPL upgrade its my opinion that it's well worth it.

 

[Milledon]

My older AQL-CHEM Sense & Dispense would not work with the OmniPL programming. I made sure I had the latest firmware in my OmniPL unit but no joy. So I had to bite the bullet and purchase a new HL-CHEM Sense & Dispense which I found for $769 at Poolsupply4less.

Hayward HL-CHEM OmniLogic Sense and Dispence - PoolSupply4Less

Hayward OmniLogic HL-CHEM will allow you sense and dispense pool chemicals. Free Shipping is included.

www.poolsupply4less.com

For anyone considering this OmniPL upgrade its my opinion that it's well worth it.

Hey Sgt1411....Now that you have had the Omni PL Upgrade installed for a few days, any new thoughts?

 

[Sgt1411]

Hey Sgt1411....Now that you have had the Omni PL Upgrade installed for a few days, any new thoughts?

It's a huge improvement over ProLogic and remote access software AquaConnectWeb. I could never get the AquaConnectWeb software to work on my iPhone or MacBook. You would click a button and no response, no user feedback. You can really tell Hayward puts all the development into OmniLogic.

The GUI is much nicer, you can do things like set a max SPA/POOL temp and then other users cant change it.

I bought the old AquaPod to use as a handheld controller for the old ProLogic, now with OmniLogic you can use old smartphone or tablet and you get an instant control pad.

I'm still having an issue with my Hayward H400FDN Heater, since transitioning to OmniPL. The heater is wired to a green connector that gets pulled off the old ProLogic board and directly plugs into the same spot on the OmniPL board. So you cant screw up the wiring connections But no power at the H400FDN, no lights on the H400FDN control pad. I had another pool guy check my OmniPL configuration and he says its correct so Im at a loss.

I hooked up the HL-CHEM last night and its working fine.

Anyone considering the upgrade I would highly recommend it.

 

[ajw22]

I'm still having an issue with my Hayward H400FDN Heater, since transitioning to OmniPL. The heater is wired to a green connector that gets pulled off the old ProLogic board and directly plugs into the same spot on the OmniPL board. So you cant screw up the wiring connections But no power at the H400FDN, no lights on the H400FDN control pad. I had another pool guy check my OmniPL configuration and he says its correct so Im at a loss.

Is your heater in Remote mode showing the bO code?

Take the two heater wires in the green connector and twist them together. See if the heater starts.

Follow the wire to the connection in the heater and jump it there. You may have a problem with the wire.

 

[Sgt1411]

Is your heater in Remote mode showing the bO code?

Take the two heater wires in the green connector and twist them together. See if the heater starts.

Follow the wire to the connection in the heater and jump it there. You may have a problem with the wire.

Thank you I will try that but the H400FDN control screen doesnt even have power. I checked fuse on heater internal board its good.

 

[Sgt1411]

I have another question about the relays.

When you connect HL-CHEM Sense & Dispense with PH Dispense (Acid Pump) you pull the Black/Yellow and White pump power wires off the old ProLogic PCB and Hayward instructions tell you to cut off connectors and connect them to a High Voltage Relay (HVR) Black/Yellow to Line In and White to Line out on the relay. I set it up in Configuration and I can hear the relay clicking but no power to the pump. Are those relays already powered or do I have to pull 120V off one of the breakers to give power to the new pump HVR?

The power pigtails that power the pump don't change correct?....they stay the same as the ProLogic set up?

 

[ajw22]

On heater, you check that you have power at the heater with a voltmeter?

 

[Sgt1411]

I got the HL-CHEM sorted out it was due to the relay not having power from a GFCB, once I powered it up its dispensing now. based on when the S&D tells it too.

Still working with heater ........no power when I put the meter on the power connections.....working backwards now

 

[Sgt1411]

Heater update, had Hayward local guy come look he pulled the heater wires from original Relay that worked for ProLogic PCB and moved the heater wires to the Line In wire contact on relay so filter and heater are always hot. It worked. But still having issues with "LO" error code. Metered Pressure regulator, High Temp Limit switch swapped out but "LO" continues.....no blockages in Header good water pressure.......I wonder if its the water pressure switch was touched by somebody and even though it meters fine its too low....

 

[ajw22]

But still having issues with "LO" error code. Metered Pressure regulator, High Temp Limit switch swapped out but "LO" continues.....no blockages in Header good water pressure.......I wonder if its the water pressure switch was touched by somebody and even though it meters fine its too low....

A Hayward LO code is a limit string open error that occurs when any of the safety circuits on your Hayward pool heater opens. This forces the heater to shut down to protect your heater from damage.

Usual reason for the LO code is lack of sufficient flow not closing the Water Pressure Switch. Low water pressure can be due to a filter that needs to be cleaned, low pump RPM if a VS pump, open heater bypass valve, low skimmer water level, or even a stuck weir door.

Also on the Limit String is the Temperature Limit Switch and Vent Pressure Switch.

See pages 38-41 in the Universal H-Series Diagnostics Guide.

 

[Sgt1411]

A Hayward LO code is a limit string open error that occurs when any of the safety circuits on your Hayward pool heater opens. This forces the heater to shut down to protect your heater from damage.

Usual reason for the LO code is lack of sufficient flow not closing the Water Pressure Switch. Low water pressure can be due to a filter that needs to be cleaned, low pump RPM if a VS pump, open heater bypass valve, low skimmer water level, or even a stuck weir door.

Also on the Limit String is the Temperature Limit Switch and Vent Pressure Switch.

See pages 38-41 in the Universal H-Series Diagnostics Guide.

Thank you so here is a photo of the switch........is the setting correct?

 

[ajw22]

Thank you so here is a photo of the switch........is the setting correct?

I cannot tell from the picture. The WPS comes preset from the factory for a specific pressure. To reset it requires that it be connected to a water pressure gauge.

Have you tested it with a multimeter that the contacts close when your pump is running and water is flowing?

 

[Sgt1411]

I cannot tell from the picture. The WPS comes preset from the factory for a specific pressure. To reset it requires that it be connected to a water pressure gauge.

Have you tested it with a multimeter that the contacts close when your pump is running and water is flowing?

Yes and it test out OK

 

[Sgt1411]

What do the + and - marks on the switch mean?.......does + means more pressure is required to open or it allows more water pressure into heater?