Help me! I'm trying but failing:)

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sheridc

sheridc

Member
Mar 28, 2024
18
Merced, CA
I am trying to do the TFP philosophy but can't get my water under control to start. The pool looks cloudy but pretty good otherwise. My phosphates are out of control (1710) so I added a phosphate remover and it's down to 1122 but still cloudy. My CYA is 100 and my FC is 5.93. What should be next? I'm getting different info from the pool store, so I'm not sure what to do. Thank you!
 
Welcome to TFP! :wave: Based on your initial comments, I suspect you are having water tested at a pool store correct? It doesn't sound like you have a TF-100 (or TF-Series) test kit, or perhaps a Taylor K-2006C kit? If not, that really MUST be priority #1. Everything we do/say here at TFP revolves around accurate testing. Never trust the pool store, test strips, or things like that.

Cloudy water implies an early algae bloom. To get red of algae we use the SLAM Process. If your CYA is high (i.e. 90 or more) a partial water change is in order. It's the only way to lower the CYA. I could get into more details, but I don't want to overwhelm you right now. :crazy: First we need to nail-down accurate water tests. Then it all makes sense.

Be sure to bookmark our Pool Care Basics which has a lot of great info. Lots of folks here to help you along the way.
 
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In the meantime, until you can get a TF-Series kit (link in my signature) or Taylor K-2006C, be sure to not use any tablets or pool store powders/shock products. They make your CYA higher. Only use liquid chlorin. In your 36K pool, you can add one gallon of 10% liquid chlorine now, then another 1/2 gallon each day until you can get one of those kits I mentioned. I highly recommend the TF-100 or TF-Series kits. Great value and homeowner friendly.
 
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sheridc said:
I am trying to do the TFP philosophy but can't get my water under control to start. The pool looks cloudy but pretty good otherwise. My phosphates are out of control (1710) so I added a phosphate remover and it's down to 1122 but still cloudy. My CYA is 100 and my FC is 5.93. What should be next? I'm getting different info from the pool store, so I'm not sure what to do. Thank you!
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Your phosphates are fine and that’s not the problem. Pool stores are really really really bad at water testing and you should never trust anything they tell you. It was no need to sell you phosphate remover. Order one of the two Reliable kits like mentioned above and do the testing yourself. Until then you can get some liquid chlorine from Walmart in the pool section and add half gallon of that every day to keep chlorine in there until your test kit arrives.
 
Texas Splash said:
In the meantime, until you can get a TF-Series kit (link in my signature) or Taylor K-2006C, be sure to not use any tablets or pool store powders/shock products. They make your CYA higher. Only use liquid chlorin. In your 36K pool, you can add one gallon of 10% liquid chlorine now, then another 1/2 gallon each day until you can get one of those kits I mentioned. I highly recommend the TF-100 or TF-Series kits. Great value and homeowner friendly.
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Thank you for all of your help! Are you saying that the test strips aren't accurate? The apps are very convenient:) To be honest, I'm a little intimidated by these test kits. Any encouragement?
 
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sheridc said:
Thank you for all of your help! Are you saying that the test strips aren't accurate? The apps are very convenient:) To be honest, I'm a little intimidated by these test kits. Any encouragement?
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Hey, I can add encouragement. I’m a brand new AGP owner with the house we bought last fall. Knew NOTHING about pool chemicals or maintenance. Did a bit of work over the winter here in the “Pool School” and learned a huge amount.
I bought a TF Pro test kit and was overwhelmed at first with all the bottles. It took a few times running through the tests, but they have become very easy now. The instructions are straight forward and the crew here helps every step of the way.
Try it, you will be fine!
 
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Once you're doing these tests, you'll realise that it's actually a lot less intimidating to count the number of drops required for a sharp colour transition from say pink to clear (in case of the chlorine test, for example), than to compare colour shades on a test strip with a colour scale.

I may be colour challenged to always find matching socks on the washing line, but I can easily count the two socks I need for each pair.

Give it a go. You'll soon ask yourself why you haven't been doing it like that the whole time.

It's honestly a lot more complex to bake a cake than to test your water parameters - that's just a piece of cake in comparison...
 
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sheridc said:
I am trying to do the TFP philosophy but can't get my water under control to start. The pool looks cloudy but pretty good otherwise. My phosphates are out of control (1710) so I added a phosphate remover and it's down to 1122 but still cloudy. My CYA is 100 and my FC is 5.93. What should be next? I'm getting different info from the pool store, so I'm not sure what to do. Thank you!
Click to expand...
Hi Sheridc,
Welcome to TFP!

First of all, TFP is an easy way for pool owners to take care of their own pools.
The pool stores are in business to make money. They will use all sorts of jargon to sell you something expensive that really will not help you. Also, TFP does not trust Pool Store Test Results. They are inaccurate and cannot be trusted.


Lots of info in the posts above and it can be overwhelming. But relax, everyone is saying the same thing in their own words and trying to help you.

Lets keep it simple right now. Here are a few tips to get ready to fix your pool.
1. The cloudy water is not due to phosphates or TDS. So don't worry about it and ignore anything to the contrary.
2. You need a good test kit to test the water yourself and often. Please visit Test Kits to get a test kit. At a minimum, you will need the TF100 kit. If your pool is a saltwater pool, then get the TF100 Salt Test kit. All of the other kits listed contain the same stuff plus some 'luxury' items that are great to have, but not a minimum requirement.
3. Once you get your own test kit. Follow the instructions supplied with it, record the results, then come back here and we can help you out.
4. Please fill out pool description in your SIGNATURE. It will save a lot of time in us helping you.
5. Go ahead and download POOL MATH now. You will need it in order to help determine how much of some chemical you need to add or remove from your pool water, based upon your test results and the size of your pool.

In the meantime while waiting for your test kit to arrives.
Go ahead and get yourself a few gallons of Liquid Chlorine or Bleach without any scents or splashless additives.
Pour 1/2 gallon into the pool each day and run your pump at least 30 minutes after adding it.

We look forward to helping you out, but more importantly, we look forward to you enjoying a sparkling spotless pool for a fraction of the cost you've been spending up until now.
 

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I am stuck on the Pool information page of the Pool Math app and it won't progress. Anyway, I did the tests and here is what I found:

FC-11
CC-0
TC-11
CH-225
TA-140 (though it started to get pink around 12 drops (120)...does the water ever get really red or just pinkish red?
CYA-80

Pool looks fairly clear but we have had some grayish algae on the bottom, so I know something is off. Thanks for your help on what to do now:)
 
sheridc said:
I did the tests and here is what I found:
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Those are pretty good numbers. Your CYA is on the high end. This is a non-salt (liquid chlorine) pool correct? Be sure to NOT use any powdered chlorine products or tablets. Only use liquid chlorine from this point forward. If this is a salt pool let us know.

You didn't list the pH. That's an mportant one. The TA will get bright Barbie pink, that's it. 140 is a bit elevated, but not the priority right now. CH is on the low end, but is okay for the moment.

Standing by for your pH. How does the water look?
 
I see you already mentioned the water is fairly clear but there is some grey stuff on the bottom. That could be dead algae, but you'll want to do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test test as soon as possible to ensure you don't have any residual algae still growing in the water. If you have any questions about the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test let us know.
 
Texas Splash said:
Those are pretty good numbers. Your CYA is on the high end. This is a non-salt (liquid chlorine) pool correct? Be sure to NOT use any powdered chlorine products or tablets. Only use liquid chlorine from this point forward. If this is a salt pool let us know.

You didn't list the pH. That's an mportant one. The TA will get bright Barbie pink, that's it. 140 is a bit elevated, but not the priority right now. CH is on the low end, but is okay for the moment.

Standing by for your pH. How does the water look?
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Thank you. Yes, this is a chlorine pool. The PH is 8.2 and CC is 5 (both tests were the pinkest pink and the darkest yellow). A couple of weeks ago when I found this site, I removed the chlorine tablets I had in the floater because Leslie's had told me the CYA was high. I've only been using liquid chlorine since. My pool guy came by for my pump and guessed that the grayish algae was dead algae but it's hanging around (easily brushed away...doesn't stick to pool surface at all).
 
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