First Season Balancing Water

[smcilw1]

Our pool was finished in December and I am getting it ready for swimming in 3 weeks.

My current levels are:

FC: 14 (IntelliChlor was set at 50% output, I have lowered it to 25% output. I haven't added liquid chlorine in 23 days)
CC: 0
pH: 8.4 (I am adding 32oz of muriatic acid (31.45%) almost every 3rd day! The pH won't stay down)
TA: 90
CH: 350
CYA: 30
Salt: 2800 (Per testing kit, 2,550 per IntelliChlor system)
Water Temp: 58 degrees
Our pump currently runs 24/7 at 2,300 rpm
Water looks crystal clear!

Is it normal for the salt system to have such a high chlorine output at 50%?
How can I manage my pH levels? Is this normal?
Anything else to adjust over the next 3 weeks?

Thank you!

 

[JJ_Tex]

My pool is bigger than yours and I have my IC40 at 10%. Assuming that is what you have, 10% would add 1.6 FC on a daily basis. 10%-20% is probably a good starting point now, but will increase as the temps warm up and you start using your pool.

Plaster pools can use a lot of acid when curing. Are you testing after you add to make sure you are lowering it to where you think it should be? Also, do you have any water features or anything else aerating the water, as those can raise pH.

 

[smcilw1]

My pool is bigger than yours and I have my IC40 at 10%. Assuming that is what you have, 10% would add 1.6 FC on a daily basis. 10%-20% is probably a good starting point now, but will increase as the temps warm up and you start using your pool.

Plaster pools can use a lot of acid when curing. Are you testing after you add to make sure you are lowering it to where you think it should be? Also, do you have any water features or anything else aerating the water, as those can raise pH.

Good to know about the % you’re at! I got worried I was setting it too low (without knowing anything!)

Yes, I test a few hours after adding the acid and it always comes down to the level I expect from the pool math app. It just rises so quickly.

We do have a water feature but it has been winterized and hasn’t ran since December.

 

[pjt]

My current levels

What model test kit do you have? What model IntelliChlor? (Add it to your signature.) You can also add your pump and filter models.

FC: 14

With FC > 10, the pH result is invalid for drop based tests.

Is it normal for the salt system to have such a high chlorine output at 50%?

PoolMath can give you an estimate of SWG FC production. "Effects of Adding" --> "Chemical Additions" --> "SWG"

Our pump currently runs 24/7 at 2,300 rpm

Do you need to run at a high RPM? Typically, run your pump as slow as possible while still achieving your goals (skimmers work, SWG flow switch closed, etc.).

How can I manage my pH levels? Is this normal?

Manage with MA additions. Add enough to get your pH into the high 7s. PoolMath can assist. Each MA addition will also lower your TA, which should help reduce pH rise. You'll likely find equilibrium with TA of 50-70 and pH in the high 7s.

Anything else to adjust over the next 3 weeks?

Turn the SWG off for a few days and let the FC drift down below 10. You'll eventually need to add some CYA as well. Manage the pH with MA.

 

[smcilw1]

What model test kit do you have? What model IntelliChlor? (Add it to your signature.) You can also add your pump and filter models.


With FC > 10, the pH result is invalid for drop based tests.


PoolMath can give you an estimate of SWG FC production. "Effects of Adding" --> "Chemical Additions" --> "SWG"


Do you need to run at a high RPM? Typically, run your pump as slow as possible while still achieving your goals (skimmers work, SWG flow switch closed, etc.).


Manage with MA additions. Add enough to get your pH into the high 7s. PoolMath can assist. Each MA addition will also lower your TA, which should help reduce pH rise. You'll likely find equilibrium with TA of 50-70 and pH in the high 7s.


Turn the SWG off for a few days and let the FC drift down below 10. You'll eventually need to add some CYA as well. Manage the pH with MA.

Thank you! I have the TF-Pro Salt.

I didn't realize the pH result is invalid or that the PoolMath app calculated SWG production!

This is the RPM the pool builder set me up with so I haven't changed it.

I turned off the SWG and am looking forward to the FC drifting down, this has been such a learning experience.

 

[pjt]

This is the RPM the pool builder set me up with so I haven't changed it.

Experiment to determine the lowest RPM that satisfies your SWCG flow switch and provides acceptable skimmer function, then add 50 or 100 RPM as a buffer. Each pool is different. I run 24/7 at 1000 RPM, which draws ~75 watts. It costs less than $6/month in electricity. I like constant skimming, chlorination, filtering, and circulation.